Where's this wire supposed to go?

[NYsquarebird58]

I needed to run a wire to the ignition switch for the ignition system upgrade I’m doing. There wasn’t much slack on the wiring to pull the ignition switch from under the dash, so I decided to remove the instrument cluster.

I noticed a short red wire with a connector on the end of it. It’s connected to the accessory side of the ignition switch. Any idea where this goes? I couldn't find it in my wiring schematic. I was thinking that it was either for an option that my car is not equipped with? Or maybe just something someone added years ago.

[simplyconnected]

Marcelo, that's a VERY long end on that red wire. Check for a close place it might go. Can you give us another view of your key switch?

There's the pink resistor wire you're going to bypass for your Pertronix. Make sure all your wires have crimped lugs under the nuts. It's a good idea to run #14 wire because other things under the hood need a wire that's hot with IGN (like electric chokes, electric fuel pumps, etc.).

BTW did you find that 'extra' fuse? Does the brown wire go to it? If you trace both ends I will update our diagrams.

[jopizz]

I believe that's for power windows. If your car has manual windows Ford may have just normally installed it there whether it was ordered or not.

John

[NYsquarebird58]

Marcelo, that's a VERY long end on that red wire. Check for a close place it might go. Can you give us another view of your key switch?

Here's the top view.


The bottom of this picture shows the ignition side of the switch. I believe the pink wire is the resistor wire we were talking about.


Here's the battery side of the switch. The green wire feeds constant 12 volts to the black in line fuse holder for the brake lights.


Here's the accessory side of the switch. I'll check again to see if there's a nearby connection for that red wire. I also noticed the brown wire which I also do not see in the wiring schematic.

There's the pink resistor wire you're going to bypass for your Pertronix. Make sure all your wires have crimped lugs under the nuts. It's a good idea to run #14 wire because other things under the hood need a wire that's hot with IGN (like electric chokes, electric fuel pumps, etc.).

I was thinking the saaaame thing! I don't want to be dismantling my cluster again just to wire in a choke or an electric fuel pump in the future.

BTW did you find that 'extra' fuse? Does the brown wire go to it? If you trace both ends I will update our diagrams.

Yup, and sure enough that fuse was blown! I read in one of Alexander's posts that the fuse is 14 amps. I'm going to replace it and undo that un-fused red wire going from the voltage regulator that's currently feeding the brake light switch.

[jopizz]

Looks like it is for power windows. Here's the schematic showing a red wire from the window relay to the ACC term of the ignition switch. Probably easier to install it on all cars rather than add it later.

John

[mmuenchow]

Yup, and sure enough that fuse was blown! I read in one of Alexander's posts that the fuse is 14 amps. I'm going to replace it and undo that un-fused red wire going from the voltage regulator that's currently feeding the brake light switch.



what did the fuse protect??

[NYsquarebird58]

Thank you, John! Initially I thought I accidentally pulled apart that connection when I was trying to pull the ignition switch from under the dash, but I was left scratching my head when I couldn't find the other end when I pulled the cluster.

[NYsquarebird58]

Yup, and sure enough that fuse was blown! I read in one of Alexander's posts that the fuse is 14 amps. I'm going to replace it and undo that un-fused red wire going from the voltage regulator that's currently feeding the brake light switch.



what did the fuse protect??

On 1960 Thunderbirds it protected the brake light circuit. I believe on '58 and '59's the fuse for the brake lights are on the back of the headlight switch.

[simplyconnected]

It was ridiculous for Ford to hide an important fuse for the brake lights. I hope you extend that fuse wire to make it accessible in future.

When Marcelo bought his Squarebird, the brake light switch was fed from a cobbled wire connected to his 'batt' terminal on the voltage regulator. That supplied constant +12 to the brake circuit.

Evidently, the prior owner either couldn't get to this elusive brake fuse, or he couldn't find it. Either way he had no brake lights, so he found his own twelve volts. Actually, it wasn't a bad idea provided the circuit was protected. At least he could get to it.

When Marcelo replaced his master cylinder, questions arose about those two green wires for the brake light switch, and why only one of them was connected (with the addition of a 'new' wire).

I am super-happy that Marcelo is getting his bird back together WITH a good understanding of his car. Good going, Marcelo. The members came through like gangbusters. I'm going to update our diagrams to show the red AND the green wire fuse.

Thanks John, and Thank You Marcelo, for the great pictures. - Dave

[NYsquarebird58]

Thanks, Dave. Today I put everything back together and everything works as it should. The brake lights are now wired the way they should be, and work as intended.

The only tough part was finding a the correct size 14 amp fuse. Apparently Radioshack is mostly in the business of selling cell phones these days. Their selection of fuses and connectors is dismal. I ended up driving one town over and picking up a set of fuses at Advance.