Ghost In Mt Pwr Windows Electrics

[dhanks]

MY PWR WINDOWS AND SEAT WILL WORK WHEN I FIRST USE THEM BUT AFTER A SHORT WHILE THEY GO DEAD. i KNOW THE WINDOWS GO THROUGH THE SEAT WIRING AND i HAVE CHECKED EVERY THEING i KNOW TO DO; EXCEPT FOR ONE THING I SAW ON A DIAGRAM THAT SAID SOMETHING WAS UNDER MY LEFT SIDE DASH???

WHERE SHOULD I LOOK NEXT?

[simplyconnected]

Jeff, the main circuit breaker and power relay are located on the firewall inside the engine compartment (passenger's side)
The small can in front is your 30-a circuit breaker. The larger box behind it is a power relay. Follow the yellow feed wire straight back to the 'battery' side of your starter relay:

Here's a diagram of your windows and main breaker:

Power starts at the top RH corner.

Start troubleshooting from the red wire (key switch to relay). You should hear the relay come in as soon as you turn the key on. If your circuit breaker is bad or weak, the red/blue wire on the relay will reveal no power. - Dave

[rannugno]

I had the same problem with my power windows last summer. In my car the problem was periodical bad connection inside the circuit breaker on the firewall like the one you can see on the picture from Dave.

[dhanks]

thanks

Thanks-- I will check that out--Most likely my problem also

Dave

I had the same problem with my power windows last summer. In my car the problem was periodical bad connection inside the circuit breaker on the firewall like the one you can see on the picture from Dave.

[dhanks]

Pulled the wrong part!!

I forgot which side and pulled off a resistor on the driver side instead! What have I done? I found one on ebay that simply called it a firewall resistor. It was right under my master cylinder. It has two coils inside a chanel shaped bracket. I can't make out waht it does. Also, I broke it and I will hacve to get another one , after I know what it is! I feel so stupid! All I had to do was take another look at your picture.

Help again please.

Dave

[jopizz]

It's the coil resistor. Your local auto parts store should have one or be able to get one. They're only about $5.00. If you want one that looks like the factory one it will cost you quite a bit more. Your car won't run right without it.

[simplyconnected]

It's the coil resistor. Your local auto parts store should have one or be able to get one. They're only about $5.00. If you want one that looks like the factory one it will cost you quite a bit more. Your car won't run right without it.

...and if you can't find one for a Ford, get one for a GM, Chrysler, ...

The main purpose of the resistor is to restrict (limit, choke...) and lengthen the time your coil fills with current. When the points open, breaking the ignition circuit, the coil unloads all at once and you get wallop of voltage that jumps across the rotor/distributor cap and spark plug.

For a short time, you can run with the resistor shorted or bypassed. That's exactly what your starter solenoid does upon startup. Many racers run without their resistor in short races. For a car around town, I would feel ok about running for a few days without it, but not much longer. - Dave

[Jimz Bird]

...and if you can't find one for a Ford, get one for a GM, Chrysler, ...

The main purpose of the resistor is to restrict (limit, choke...) and lengthen the time your coil fills with current. When the points open, breaking the ignition circuit, the coil unloads all at once and you get wallop of voltage that jumps across the rotor/distributor cap and spark plug.

For a short time, you can run with the resistor shorted or bypassed. That's exactly what your starter solenoid does upon startup. Many racers run without their resistor in short races. For a car around town, I would feel ok about running for a few days without it, but not much longer. - Dave

Just to piggy back a bit:
Just as Dave said the ballast resistor drops the voltage to the coil to something like 7-9 volts. It may sound like a good idea to not use it so you will get a hotter spark all the time. but it's not. The extra voltage can cause the coil to heat up and fail. A short trip MAY be OK but as suggested - get a replacement as soon as you can.
The brown wire that Dave mentioned on the starter solenoid by passes the ballast resistor for more umph(sp) of voltage for starting but as soon as the key goes back to run you are going back through the resistor.
Some "high-performance" coils can take the extra voltage and do produce a hotter spark.
I think the 60 Birds went with a resistor wire instead of the ballast resistor but others will know for sure.