Restoration goes on.......

[whpaul]

Restoration goes on but may be an new problem....?????

Hello to You experts in this forum,

we mount everything together and made a first test run while the car was hooked up. After start we recognized that the steering turned slowly from itself all to the left. Steering while driving works correct. I have power-steering.

Is this normal or better we search for a problem????

whpaul

[novanutcase]

Hello to You experts in this forum,

we mount everything together and made a first test run while the car was hooked up. After start we recognized that the steering turned slowly from itself all to the left. Steering while driving works correct. I have power-steering.

Is this normal or better we search for a problem????

whpaul

Sounds like there may be a seal issue in your power steering rack. Have Yankee check the power steering rack to make sure it isn't leaking.

It's probably a very slight leak which is why it works while driving the car but turns to the left when it's stationary.

John

[simplyconnected]

...They feel offended, no question of cause they always do...

That's great! Did they use steel or brass? Here in Detroit, we use a lot of salt, which promotes rust. I always use brass freeze plugs, and so do marine engines.

You have a very good Edelbrock cam. The numbers show that you may fine-tune it. The crank sprocket has three keyways broached; one 'straight up', one retarded, and one advanced.

For driving mostly around town (cruises), I would advance the cam four degrees. This brings the maximum torque curve a little closer to low-to-medium rpm range. As your timing chain stretches (due to wear), this setting will slowly drift back towards the "zero" setting. Notice, your intake valves open at 8* After Top Dead Center? Advancing the cam would make them open a little sooner, more like 4* ATDC. This makes more horse power at the stop light, and through the mid-rpm range. - Dave

Racers like to retard the cam, and that is why your instructions warn against it.

[whpaul]

A lot more to do.....

Hallo whpaul here again,

after that shocking friday I inspected the car from underneath on detail. I found that under the underbody sealent/coating there is some corrosion.

I decided to ice-blast the car totally from underneath.
For that we took out engine and transmission again and demounted the bumpers.

Of course we found some holes and I had to order repairsheets.

After the nest will deliver there is some welding to do.

Then we are able to repaint.

And here is my first question!
what is the correct color for this??

I would like to paint the underbody in several layers and protect it with clear wax. No more bitumen!!
All cavities??? shall be protected with Mike Sanders rust prevention grease. This stuff I used on my Super beetle restoration some years ago, and I am very satisfied with the result.

As You can see on the attached pictures I found some areas at the underbody They are coated in a kind brown color. Is this original????

We demounted the bumpers for rechroming. I found that the parkinglight bodies at the front have some corrosion-holes. I tried to get new ones but the shops told me they are no more available, so I have to repair them.
Are the zinc diecast parts, and if someone already overhold them, how did You do???

As I demounted the rear Bumper I found a lot of cable holes( please see the attached picture) are the all original or did the owner before me a bad job on this????

Thanks for replay

whpaul

[Alan H. Tast, AIA]

Bodies were dunked in a red oxide primer bath prior to final primer and paint for the body. What you're seeing is what was in place before the undercoating was applied.

There are several holes in the rear structure for taillight and backup light wiring, plus bolt holes for the center of the rear bumper that are in the trunk.

[YellowRose]

Restoration goes on.....

From what Alan said about the car bodies being dunked in a red primer, I would say that the paint job on Rose is the original paint job, maybe! There is some yellow paint chipped off the left trailing edge of the trunk and under that is red primer... The undercoating on Rose is a gray color.

[whpaul]

Restoration goes on...

Hello Alan
Hello Yellowrose,

thank You for that input!This helps me to get the right decision.

Today we decided the following procedures:

after welding we will do the necessary cleaning and derusting?, then adding a antirust primer. Sealing all gaps, coating with new elastic undercoating in a kind of car color. The engine compartment will be new painted in car color. All cavities will be flooded with mike sanders grease.

I hope this is the right way to go an will be a good preservation for the next years.

whpaul

[whpaul]

Fixing the trimlines

Hello to the community,

on my long way at the restoration I again stopped on a tricky detail, the fender/door trimlines.

The are originally fixed with metal clamps direct at the metal border. This causes that the paint will be scratched and corrosion is on its way.

How did you have handled that detail??

The bodymakers like to glue them on with strong bodyglue, the problem is that then you nearly can`t get them off again.

Any smart idea or experience?

Thanks for replay

w.h.paul

[novanutcase]

Can you insert a plastic plug of sorts so that the clamp can still expand but won't scratch the paint?

John

[whpaul]

Can you insert a plastic plug of sorts so that the clamp can still expand but won't scratch the paint?

John

Hello John,

thanks for this information. Can You give me some more details about these plastic plugs,
where to get and how does it work.

whpaul

[whpaul]

Restoration goes on.....and on.....and on

Hello out there,

after my crash, I reported, I made the decision to do more restoration than I had planned.

We checked the front part of the car and found that the bolts which hold the whole frontend were slightly loose. We checked deeper and found some corrosion there.
Ok, we took everything apart and bring all parts to a kind of a acid-bath that cleaned up all dirt and paint and got after a special neutralization a full bath phosphatic primer.

Now see on the attached pictures the new frontend of my car.
Looks much better then before, not that black, now more original.

I have to interrupt restoration now, because I am waiting for parts I ordered in Corona.
That are two doors, quaterpanel rear left side, bumpers front and rear rechromed, transmission and power steering gear.

These parts are on the way by ship, I expect them mid september. Then I hope we can continue.

For that I need some Information. I was asked about a set of new mounting parts for the front fenders. What parts are there all involved.Do I have to order them separately or are sets available?

whpaul
at a rainy day in Germany

[whpaul]

As restoration goes on now problems with sealings

Hallo to the community,

may be You remember that I restore my 61 T-Bird.
As You can imagine we dig us from point to point an therefore we took the car totally apart did some welding, took the front frame off, give the car newer doors, all new painting and so on.

But now we hang while mounting the door sealings.

The problem we have is the rubber sealing at the roof which seals the window at its top side.
The sealing is made in U-form, when we adjust the window so that the window frame dives in the open U, we can not open the door with a closed window.

When we adjust the window so that the frame presses against one side of the open U so that one side of the the U is folding in, we can open the door with closed window but the window pushes not high enough, the motors are not strong enough because the rubber of the sealing is to hard an there is about half of an inch left.
I do not know what is the correct adjustment and how is the original?

The 61 body trim sealant assembly manual does not show this detail.

Is there anybody who can give me the details and show me what is the correct and original adjustment?????

Thanks for reply

[Guest]

whpaul see it is older post

How does it run with edelbrock parts??

[whpaul]

Now it runs good

Hello Tealbird,
the answer is this...

first I had some trouble with cold start. The problem was very simple and had to do with the push-rods. A drop of oil fixed it.
Then I could not test because my wheels could not be aligned and the car was shaking heavily over 50mph.
I ordered new wheels than it works. Then I had to drive carefully because the new engine had to brake in.

But last week I was on the Highway (remember we have no speed limit) and I push the car very fast to a 125mph and that was long not the end. Other drivers had a interesting look on their face while I passed them.
The engine runs smooth and easy, idling is very good. It has a powerful acceleration much stronger then the org. Engine.
Reaktion on gas is although very nice.
With all the changes I think there should be more than 385hp.
The only thing what is not nice is the milage at high speed!!!

Wolfgang Paul

[Guest]

lack of speed limit

Mom first learned to drive standard over there when dad was in us army 64-66 told me was exiciting good luck