Rear Quarter Power Window in UP

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Removing Rear Window Regulator and Motor

Per my post, I have to remove my power window motor, as it does not seem to be working. I have diagnosed this all the way from the switches and 15A circuit breaker, confirming the power is getting to the motor in the Up & Down Switch modes. Green Wire is live, and Red & Yellow act accordingly. Ensured by grounding to the circuit breaker.

I post pictures below to point out the required bolts removed. I had to also disengage the vertical slide because the window stuck in the UP position, binds and does not allow the regulator enough freedom to access the mounting nuts atop the motor.

I carefully lowered the window down. I will proceed to clean up and re-grease the regulator, and try to repair the motor, though it's probably easier to just buy a re-manufactured one from one of the many parts catalogs.

I can re-assemble the vehicle if I want to drive her around, but I will probably leave it open for now until I figure out what to do with the motor.

Hopefully the figures in the shop manual will be enough for re-assembly, plus I took a dozen pics...

See pics below:

[jopizz]

I would also check the lining in the rear channel. Usually it disintegrates and you are left with just metal against the window.

John

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Good idea......

I would also check the lining in the rear channel. Usually it disintegrates and you are left with just metal against the window.

John

Yes. Good idea. I opened up the motor, tried to clean it up and reassemble but I am not having any luck. Looks like a "new" motor is in next week's order.

[simplyconnected]

Yes. Good idea. I opened up the motor, tried to clean it up and reassemble but I am not having any luck...

Do you have broken parts? Could you take pictures of the dis-assembled motor and post them?

All electrical components (two field windings and the armature) can be checked with a meter. You can see from the inside, all black wires are soldered to a common pad. Put your meter on 200-ohm scale, hold one prod on that pad and with the other prod check the yellow wire, then the red wire. An open field winding is a 'deal breaker' but a broken wire can be replaced.

What do the commutator segments look like? - Dave

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Testing the motor

I have a 12v/15Amax Power Supply from an old computer. I rigged up two 12v lives and a ground wire (to black). I used a bullet connector on each to simulate the harness. I put Black to Black, one 12v to Green and then touched either the Yellow OR Red connector with an alligator clip. I measured the voltage (11.75) so I know I was getting power to each. The motor doesn't move in either direction. Actually it started to get hot, so I hope I didn't over power the amperage, but the max on the power supply is 15A, so it SHOULDNT have;

I did open up the motor, and it looks ok, need some cleaning, put it back together an still nothing.....It's little different than what is published in the tech library. The wiring is not as exposed. I did notice what looks like a clip hanging and not connected....I tried to take a picture of it.

[simplyconnected]

The last picture shows brushes but I don't see them in their holders. - Dave

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Brushes

HI Dave:

the brushes are attached to the inside of the cylinder by rivets. I cannot remove them.

[simplyconnected]

Yes, I understand...
In a SHUNT DC 4-wire motor, one brush is connected to black (ground) and the other brush is fed from the green wire.

In a SERIES DC 3-wire motor, one brush is connected to black (ground) and the other brush is connected to both field windings.

I see the brass-colored brushes dangling in your last picture but they are not in holders. Let's just say that you didn't take a picture of the brushes before you put the motor together.

Did you take resistance measurements of the fields and armature before closing it up? You may just have a dirt problem. - Dave

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

It's done...

I don't have any new pics to post, as you can see most of what I will talk about in the pictures already provided. Also, I apologize in advance if my terminology is not quite correct.



I ordered a new motor from a local catalog. I sometimes use a local guy and/or 3 or 4 other catalogs that all had the motor for the same money. I just wasn't smart enough to try to repair the old motor. I originally tried the larger front door motor, which I was told would work, but I could not get it to fit properly into the body cavity, and I did not want to mess with the integrity of the area. Therefore, I opted for the correctly sized motor. Personal choice.

As a prep, I plugged in the motor and tried it from the door switch. Worked fine in both directions.

Step 1: was to put the Regulator back in place. I manually wound the gear to bring the swing arm on the regulator to about mid-level. I also had removed the vertical slide. I put the regulator back into the body cavity, and aligned the window-roller into its groove at the bottom of the window.

I had my wife hold the window in place for me, as I needed 2 hands to manipulate the regulator.

Step 2: Attach the motor to the regulator. The motor I ordered had bushings inserted into the bolt holes, and those bushings did not fit into the regulator mount; so I simply removed them, and re-inserted the mounting bolts. The mounting nuts were not 3/8", but 6mm. But that's neither here nor there. I got it on and tightened them down properly.


Step 3: I put the outward facing (short end) roller into the window groove. and pushed the regulator into position (done it Step 1 but it slid out). I put the vertical slide into place after inserting the roller into it. It was much easier doing that then trying to put that roller into the slide already attached to the body. It went much easier once I figured that out.

Step 4: . I inserted the top-left bolt first, and then the bottom right to get everything properly aligned.

Step 5: After tightening everything by hand, I tested the window and lo and behold, up she went, then down, then back up, then back down. That was using the door switch.

My hands were too dirty and it was hot in the garage, so I will put the trim back on tomorrow during the day, and test the trim switch. It should work fine, and now I have a nice, working power window.

This took awhile. I don't know how those line workers did it in less than 90 seconds! I took me 90 minutes to figure it all out!

Next Day:

I hooked the motor up to the rear switch and it works great. Re-installed all the trim, etc. Good as now.