I checked our past threads on this subject which explain front stabilizer insulator R&I pretty simply: Remove the stabilizer brackets, remove and install new insulators, and re-install brackets. Voila! Those old cracked something close to rubber parts come out like butter.
Now the Shop Manual states this procedure in terms of removing the stabilizer bar including "front cross member guard", whatever that part might be. Then to really confuse re-installation it states in FIG.13 to torque "cap screws" at 30-35 ft.-lbs. and the special 5/16 inch bolts to 10-15 ft.-lbs. No where will you find 30-35 on PART 8-5 Specifications which contain torque specs. This section does show both 12-15 for torqueing Stabilizer Bushing Brackets (not insulators?) and Stabilizer to Lower Control Arm Nuts.
I was bleeding the brakes and noticed the stabilizer bar insulators were cracked in several places. Then I read on the WWW that this could the reason for a few clunks when turning over a bump. Do the insulators come out readily after just removing the brackets only and not the entire bar?
Dean
Now the Shop Manual states this procedure in terms of removing the stabilizer bar including "front cross member guard", whatever that part might be. Then to really confuse re-installation it states in FIG.13 to torque "cap screws" at 30-35 ft.-lbs. and the special 5/16 inch bolts to 10-15 ft.-lbs. No where will you find 30-35 on PART 8-5 Specifications which contain torque specs. This section does show both 12-15 for torqueing Stabilizer Bushing Brackets (not insulators?) and Stabilizer to Lower Control Arm Nuts.
I was bleeding the brakes and noticed the stabilizer bar insulators were cracked in several places. Then I read on the WWW that this could the reason for a few clunks when turning over a bump. Do the insulators come out readily after just removing the brackets only and not the entire bar?
Dean
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