Brake Booster part numbers

[YellowRose]

Brake Booster part numbers

Todd, the parts cost list is in the Members Conference. Since you are a Paid Member, you have access to all that information in it. Look at my thread there in the Disc Brake Conversion Files. Look at the DiscBrakeConversionList.xls file and all the other information there that is available to our Paid Members...

[toddgilroy]

Thanks, Ray, but I am not shopping anymore.

I read through all the posts and files at least twice, and after adding up the price of the various parts, and adding in the need to fabricate a bracket/extension, I decided to go with the ABS T-Bird setup.

I don't know that I have more money than time, but with a full-time job, kids in activities, and A LOT of work to do on this car, I opted to spend my "car time" on other more pressing areas.

My point was I think the cost of the booster, MC and combo valve outlined in the various threads or in the members area will be well over $200, maybe closer to $250, depending on which booster you select. For example, PB8537 ($135), MC1321H ($55) and PV2 ($65) is $256.

Just trying to raise awareness there are other options out there that are not that much more $$.

[simplyconnected]

...I read through all the posts and files at least twice, and after adding up the price of the various parts, and adding in the need to fabricate a bracket/extension, I decided to go with the ABS T-Bird setup....

...My point was I think the cost of the booster, MC and combo valve outlined in the various threads or in the members area will be well over $200, maybe closer to $250, depending on which booster you select. For example, PB8537 ($135), MC1321H ($55) and PV2 ($65) is $256...

If that is true, you should have seen a few different ways to do this conversion. You didn't go far wrong by buying the ABS system. At least all the pieces are all together for you.
I happen to check Pirate Jack's price on a two-stage 8" booster ($90):

http://www.piratejack.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=135_96&product_id=155

and in chrome ($105):

http://www.piratejack.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=135_96&product_id=156

Dual Master with 1" bore and 3/8" IFF ports ($55)

http://www.piratejack.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=94&product_id=206

So, a master and booster costs (90+55=)$145.00 retail from his web site. I know I can dig deeper and beat these prices by buying the booster and master as a combination deal. I wasn't kidding. - Dave

[Guest]

Dave, thanks for clearing that up.

MBM wants 275 +shipping. That's for pb8531, mc1321, & pv2ck2, all chrome.

[toddgilroy]

So, a master and booster costs (90+55=)$145.00 retail from his web site. I know I can dig deeper and beat these prices by buying the booster and master as a combination deal. I wasn't kidding. - Dave

Can this setup be used without a combination valve? If so, then that is a great price and substantial savings.

Trust me, I spent hours reading through the threads and the multiple options, many of which seemed to involve some level of trial and error. Finding a booster, MC and combination valve all mounted on a bracket that bolts right up to the firewall made it the right choice for me.

[Guest]

Disc brake parts

Hi Joe

I used the same setup as Marcello. The extension is to alien the brake booster to the firewall bracket. It was made out of a old trailer hitch. I also have a flat top M/C to clear the hood when closed. I mounted my control valve on the fender well cover. I installed an adjustable valve for the rear brakes it is wroth the $$$. I think the control valves are designed for the cars weight. My Thunderbird is 4,200 lbs. I am still tinkering with the one I installed in my Thunderbird.

The car stops a lot better, you will be glad you changed to disc brakes.

Hope this helps you can call me if you want. (208-699-8512 cell 208-777-2957 home)

I have just finished installing electric radiator fans. If you want info on that project let me know.

[simplyconnected]

...Or you can order part #9787 from ABS Power Brakes for $295 plus shipping. Booster (w/bracket), MC and combination valve. Bolts right up without the need to fabricate anything...

Hold the fort, cowboy... You asked for prices and I compared apples to apples. If you quote prices, make sure they are correct. I called ABS, right there in Orange, CA, not far from you, and they said #9787 costs $325.00 and it does NOT come with a combination valve OR a valve bracket.

I showed where I got my prices from, where did you get yours?

See this setup? The combination valve is a GM-type and it is mounted on the fender apron. This is where I suggest it should be mounted:



This setup uses no bracket, the lines are neatly mounted to the car and it allows more room for your hands to change plugs.

playnhooky... Why are you buying from the factory when their sales people offer the same parts for less money? Keep shopping for prices. - Dave

[toddgilroy]

Maybe they made a mistake on my bill, but I got the #9787 package, with a combo valve mounted on an underside bracket for $295 plus $33 shipping to Omaha, NE, directly from ABS.

I am working with them now to swap the underside mount to a left side mount to give me more clearance.

[YellowRose]

Brake Booster part numbers

After talking with MBM and Dave ~ simplyconnected, it appears that one can certainly use the PB8531 (zinc), PB8531C (chrome) or PB8531SS, (Stainless Steel) Universal 8" dual power booster if you cannot find a PB8537. The interesting thing is that the Pirate Jack website says they are out of stock on the PB8537, but MBM tells me they have 81 in stock! They also said that they do not know why the PB8537C Chrome has been discontinued, but will look into it.

[toddgilroy]

I think it might depend on who you talk to at ABS. Below is my initial correspondence back in January where they quoted $325, including the valve. Months later when I finally ordered (after ~Daleo56 confirmed it was bolt on) I called and talked to Ed who gave me a price of $295 including the valve. I think ~Yellowbird mentioned getting the kit for $295, but I am not sure if he got a valve or not.

[simplyconnected]

It would help a lot if ABS posted their prices (like most sites do). This business of 'he said...' or price changes from eight months ago, is not good.

Regardless... You got your system and it should work just fine.
What did you do with your original booster w/firewall bracket?

[toddgilroy]

I agree...I gotta think a better online presence would help their business.

I haven't done anything with my old booster and bracket yet. I would be willing to sell it at a fair price, just not sure what that would be. Bird Nest only offers $50 and the other extreme is a fully restored/rebuilt one on eBay for $700!

I will probably post it in the "For Sale" thread at some point. Maybe a member doing a completely stock or Concours restoration needs one.

[Guest]

I went ahead and ordered the booster pb8531C, MC1321ACHFT, PV2CK-2, & PRE-104 from MBM. All Chrome except the extension. Total cost was $275.00, no shipping charge. I know there are a bunch of combos out there, ranging from $169.00 to upwards of $400.00. But these parts, except for the 8531, have been used by many in this forum on 1960 T-bird and proven to work within this large, but confined space. I let you know how 8531 fits in a couple of weeks. I figure it will take a week and a half for all the parts to trickle in.

BTW- ABS quoted me $300.00 for the firewall bracket (which I don't need), booster, and MC. PV was another $70.00.

Joe

[Yellowbird]

I did not get a combination valve with my ABS setup. it was $295.00 plus freight. I did not use nor have I had the need for the combination valve.

A friend of mine (who had his own automotive shop) had put a combo valve on a '59 T-bird said he had adjusted it all of the way out. When he changed over to discs on his '59 Skyliner, he did not use a combo valve. He has not had issues with braking.

[simplyconnected]

Leonard, I urge you to install a combination valve for a few reasons:
You don't get metering, which brings the rear brakes on first,
You don't have a common spool between front and rear systems,
If one system ruptures without the valve, it will drain all the brake fluid out. With the valve, the spool shuts off the 'bad' side, turns on a warning light and continues operation with the side that is still good.

Without the valve, when your shoes are 'in adjustment' you won't find much difference. When the shoes start coming out of adjustment, your master cylinder will only depress until the calipers stop regardless of how much more the rears need to make contact.

In normal operation, most people don't know they have a combination valve. It silently regulates flow from front to rear systems. The proportioning part is only part of what it really does. Believe me, if OEMs could do without the valve (and save ten bucks per car) they would. - Dave