Need Advise on front suspension modifications

[Guest]

Hello all..I got the major mechanicals on my 1960 Conv done..motor's rebuilt, put the C-6 in, one wire alternator and fusebox, new gas tank, new brake lines, new fuel line, FPA headers (fit like a glove) and 2-1/4" pipes on Magnaflows, stripped the bottom and re-undercoated, bumpers done and re-chromed...and new paint...with 18" Cragars.
She runs like a champ and is a real head turner now.
However, my front end is trash, in my opinion. It works like a pogo stick, creaks, groans, bottoms out, and doesn't have the stiff rigiditty that I want. I've had the bushings looked at, and everything there looks ok..anybody have experience using after-market urethane bushings? I have an aftermarket 1-1/8" sway bar, which helped alot, but I want more. I have considered adding "Airride" or "Ridetech"'s front air suspension, but it's just too much money. I have standard 50yr old coil springs, and basic oil shocks, which I think are just shot. I'm running air shocks on the rear, as I prefer a little more racked appearance, and they added great rigidity to the rear sway. Have any of you replaced the coils and seen a major difference?
I'm open to any input and suggestions...I'd like a decent ride, but stiff in the corners, and no more wheel hop is a must..

[Coral]

Hey John, I would recommend reviewing a few threads here with bushings and suspension in the subject line...even if a *looky-see* claims the bits to be in decent shape, they ARE 50 years old...

[simplyconnected]

I agree with Coral. After all that work you did, bushings are only $8/ea. and all the classic Ford auto parts stores have them. They work VERY well. I didn't hear anything about power disk brakes. THESE are critical areas.

Springs tend to get stiff after age, and they sag. (All springs; rocker arm springs, front coils, and leafs.)

1-1/8" sway bars are excellent for keeping your car straight around corners, but they do little when you mash the brake and the nose dives. That's shocks. Notice, all these components form a system.

Stiff shocks will produce a stiff ride. Don't get the cheap OEM-replacement ones. Call a shock absorber company to get their professional opinion. The only drawback I see is, you car is a classic and the choice of products will be slim. Most will recommend a 'classic ride' shock (which is mushy but smooth). Do a lot of digging and you will find good shocks from the major brands. They just don't spend much effort cross referencing to classic cars because the sales volume is low. - Dave

[byersmtrco]

John,

KYB makes gas shocks for em. I don't like them
because they're too stiff. I have Monroe's on mine.
It still rides soft. You can't expect a Sq/Bird to handle
like a new car. It has a 750 lb eng mostly over (in frt
of the frt axle)

I'll tell ya though I can go over the Santa Cruz Grade
pretty quick though . . . 60-70 mostly (If I want- I don't
usually push it)

[DKheld]

Wonder if the 18" wheels in a 14" opening has anything to do with the "bottoming out" problem?

I guess Cragars are alloy these days and pretty light weight - with a lightweight tire that would be much less weight than the original steel wheel and heavy old G 14 tires (or something close to that measurement anyway). The springs were matched to all that weight so maybe they don't work right with a light wheel tire combo - your idea of a spring replacement might be what you need - wish I had an answer instead of "might be".

I have the Granada spindles now but when I rebuilt the original front suspension I bought Monroe sensa-track or maybe steady rider shocks. Car rides the same with either spindle - very smoth on the highway (70mph) but plows through the curves. No wheel hop though - maybe because the steel wheels and wide white tires are heavier? A stiffer sidewall on the tires would probably help some - are your tires low profile or heavy duty side wall?

Think you'll be real lucky to get a decent ride and a good cornering car with 60's passenger car suspension technology - hope you do though so you can share the story with us and others who want the same ride can follow.

I replaced the front suspension rubber bushings on an MGB with poly bushings. Not any where near the same weight car I know but I did notice a stiffer suspension as far as handling with no real noticeable change in ride - sounds like a good idea too for these heavy cars if they are available.

Eric

http://www.tbirdregistry.com/ft.asp

[Guest]

John;
When I put disc brakes on the front of my 60 convertible, I found out in a hurry that I needed front shocks. I looked at many shocks. I ended up with Gabriel Gas Ryder VST #69675 shocks. They are listed for mercury grand marquis and big fords. I had to cut the eye out on the end but they worked great and really improved the ride and handling. I am running P215/70R15 tires also. Much better than the bias tires I had on there before. Actually my 60 convertible rides as good and handles better than my 2003 Grand Marquis does. My front end is original and not modified from stock except for the disc brake conversion.

Have a good day, Gary

[byersmtrco]

Actually, tires wheels, hubs, rotors etc are un-sprung weight
and shouldn't affect the shocks. These cars were under sprung and under braked (50 yr old tech?)
Odd thing is, they figured it out in the next year or two. The 62 Merc my parents had when I was a kid, drove like a Corvette compared to that TBird. If it would have had a fast motor, it would have been the sleeper of the decade.

With my swaybars & brakes, I'd compare my TB to any mid-80's sedan for ride & handling etc.

You would be really surprised how much the (rear) swy bar helps the ride in front. The HD frt only does about 30-40% of what you need it to do, the rear does the rest.

[dgs]

Wonder if the 18" wheels in a 14" opening has anything to do with the "bottoming out" problem?

Well, the original tires on those 14" rims were 28" tall. Even with 18" wheels, you've got 10" left for tire. Plenty with modern low profile tires.

I guess Cragars are alloy these days and pretty light weight - with a lightweight tire that would be much less weight than the original steel wheel and heavy old G 14 tires (or something close to that measurement anyway).

I doubt the big wheels, even if aluminum, are lighter than the original steel. They'll be wider and larger in dia, so any weight savings from going to aluminum might be offset by more metal.

[ayrwoof]

ride control

well i like what you did , jhon and others hit most if not all on the head.
One thing i did to my 60 is the rear sway bar is 1976 fomoco LTD
rear, i heated the ends red hot truned them inward 2" inches . made
custom body brackets (used drain holes).
this changed the car alot.
also added 58 out board front shocks , cut the lower control arm with
a 1" hole saw{ but only 80% of the way } then tilted the metal
the dirrection of the top mount next i welded up the wedge shaped area and air grinded smooth. weld upper brackets to the frame with
threaded rod in place of shock. the rod should stick through the fender
well a little.
Small diamiter rubber shock bushings have to be used here about 1"
I took some bilsteins off the front of a chev taho these are awesome
units. AND they are skinny as were autolites of the day.
you will have to modify these to work . the lenth and travel are perfect but you will need to cut the EYELETS OFF.Then wire the shock
in colapsed position. next toss in bucket of water all theway to the point
where you need to weld. then wire weld on a 2 1/2" x 5/16" grade 5 bolt
repeat other end.
with a six shock front endyour bird will corner as good as it can.
again the bilsteins are unequaled.
as jhon said your rubber is not the best for the job you need more
not less
mine has 225/75 /14 diamond back med whitewall and does real well
id you nede shock numbers e mail me...