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[FONT="Comic Sans MS"]Ok, here follows two pictures of the accelerator mechanism:
Definitely a custom set-up, and not done correctly. The accelerator pump and kick-down both need to operate in the same direction- this looks to me that your vertical bar pivots in the center, and makes these two mechanisms go in opposite directions?
Here's the best photo I have of my set-up. Mine's a 64 with EFI but the linkage should be about the same. The throttle rod is on the left and the transmission kick-down on the right. They are both mounted on the same transverse rod, an that rod moves towards the driver as the accelerator pedal is pushed forward.
With the engine off, air cleaner off, have a friend move the accelerator pedal while you look at the throttle plates. The should move from closed to wide open in a linear fashion. In other words, 10mm of pedal travel should equate to the same angle change no matter where the system is in its full travel. Once you get that correct, then the transmission kick-down lever should act on the last portion of the system travel.
My car isn't available right now to take more pictures. Maybe someone else can take detailed photos of the linkage and at different positions to help you fabricate something that works correctly.
Eventhough the setup is some homemade thing, both throttle and kickdown work in the same direction. The whole mechanism is pulled towards the bulkhead when pushing the accelerator pedal.
I still don´t know why the pedal is hard to move. The pedal mechanism itself works without much force and also the part towards the carburator is easy to move. This story will continue a bit more.
Here's another picture of the factory set-up for a 64. Again its a different year but everything should be similar. This is how to set the kick-down adjustment, but you can see the relative movement of the pedal acting on the remainder of the assembly.
The kick down and throttle linkages are very close together on the accelerator connecting link. The throttle linkage rides over the downshift lever instead of below it. Yours might be getting hung up in its present position. Also, the two 90 degree bends might be deflecting.
So an update on this. Yesterday messed around with the throttle mechanism again. The solution for now was to increase the lenght of the lever on the carburator, which increases the pedal throw and reduces its sensivity.
Only during this process, while messing with the throttle lever several times, every time some fuel was injected by the accelerator pump. I started the engine normally, but when accelerating, a back-fire occured. After this the idle went very low until it stalled and it runs irregular. Can the back-fire have done some damage to the carburator and if so, to which part?
Today, after completely cooled down, it started up normally and idled normally as well. Could there have been a larger amount of fuel in the intake manifold, which caused the bad idle and rough running? Tomorrow i will take it for a ride and see how it behaves after warming up.
It's certainly possible that too much fuel got into the intake and caused the backfire and poor idle. I would check it again after it fully warms up. With the longer accelerator rod the throttle may be closing more than it did before so you may have to readjust the idle screw.
The original lever is still on the carburator, i only extended it with a piece of sheet metal. I want to change it with something better looking, but at least i know that it works. I saw on a page from Edelbrock that they sell a special throttle lever for Ford. Anyone uses this on his bird?
But the idle should not have changed, since the old lever and stop screw are still used.
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