Project Ruth.

[partsetal]

I've never had to unscrew those to remove them. They were able to be slipped down in the fin opening after all the other nuts were removed. Replacement was just the reverse, and if they were loose the screw could be tightened to give a snug fit.
Carl

[Anders]

I've never had to unscrew those to remove them. They were able to be slipped down in the fin opening after all the other nuts were removed. Replacement was just the reverse, and if they were loose the screw could be tightened to give a snug fit.
Carl

Itīs a screw in mine. At least in the top and in one corner. Then there is 2 nuts as well.

[Tbird1044]

That little screw on the very top is a real pain to get loose or tighten. I got a long piece of all thread and used a piece of tubing for a spacer for easier access to tighten the nut on the all thread.
As for the screw itself, what I found is that the hole in the body is a little larger, almost oblong, than the head of the screw. I was able to keep the screw in the extension housing and twist it into place. Then you just need a long screwdriver to tighten it.
Have fun.
Nyles

[Anders]

Front hubs

Hi all, does anyone know how the "Tool T 56 P-1217-A" looks like? Or is there any other way to take the outer and inner bearing cup out? And in again?

[pcjr]

Are they original or repros? Can you take a picture and PM me a price? And do you have Pal Pal?

They are originals which were media blasted. I didnt use them as the shop that did the body modifications shaped metal to replace them. I will take a photo and send it off to you. PM me your email as I have had problems posting photos on here.

[simplyconnected]

Hi all, does anyone know how the "Tool T 56 P-1217-A" looks like? Or is there any other way to take the outer and inner bearing cup out? And in again?

I must assume we are talking about the bearing race for the inner and outer bearings.

Wash all the grease out first, then wipe the inside dry with a clean rag and set the drum on a solid floor. Look inside the center hole and notice the bearing race closest to the floor has an area that is exposed and is shiny.

Races are pressed in place and they are case hardened.

I use a long mild steel rod on that lip, and hit it down with a decent hammer blow. Then do the opposite side of the same race. Go back and forth until the race 'walks' out.

Some European hubs have an inside slot for tool access.

Every new bearing comes with a new race but I only change them if the old one is bad. A good race should look shiny and smooth. It should fit tightly in the hub. A bad race my be discolored, de-laminated, pitted or loose.

For installation, grease the parts and tap the race back in the hole with a hammer until it stops. Make sure it's down all the way around. I have had hubs with loose races from the factory. After setting the tension with the nut, the wheel will quickly become loose again. So, I turn the wheel as I crank down HARD on that nut until nut motion stops. It's important to spin the wheel as you turn the nut. Then, back the nut off until the bearings are comfy but not loose. - Dave

[Anders]

In a attempt to save the bearings I have cleaned them out, and try to seal the area with a long bolt, washers and two pieces of plywood with rubber sheets in between the washer and the plywood, and the plywood - flange of the drum. On booth sides. Hope this stand the glass blaster and painting. Time will tell. Otherwise, I just change the bearings.