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  #11  
Old 07-11-2012, 01:31 AM
gaffney1951 gaffney1951 is offline
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Default Thanks for your concern ...

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Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Mike, during all this heat and fire storms, I've been concerned about you and your place. I hope you're out of harms way.

ZDDP, I wonder why, Mike.? As far as I know the only area that really needs zinc and phosphorous is the cam lobes & lifter faces. Did your man say where else? I'm sure you're running a roller chain so that can't be a critical area. All the other bearing surfaces use soft & hard materials combination, or they are bathed in oil. - Dave
So far so good as far as the fires are concerned. We have had a lot of smoke and a few small fires near by, but nothing like the eastern slope. It is very dry here and there is a total fire ban in our county. I have to go back to Denver to drop off a couple of flywheels I forgot to take with me so I will quiz Rob on the zddp issue when I see him and let you know. I know he mentioned some sort of failure but my CRS disease seems to have misfiled the pertinent info. Mike
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  #12  
Old 07-11-2012, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaffney1951 View Post
...but my CRS disease seems to have misfiled the pertinent info. Mike
My wife says she suffers from MY CRS disease. I'm still in total denial.
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  #13  
Old 07-31-2012, 02:01 PM
newbird59 newbird59 is offline
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Ok. I found a 390 that I'm interested in that is local. The one question that I have is about checking to see if it IS in fact a 390 that is being sold to me. I know many have asked this question but I was wondering what a good way to check for this? The engine is out of the car and I can inspect everything later on today or tomorrow. What tools will I need?


Thanks guys!

David
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  #14  
Old 07-31-2012, 02:30 PM
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Dave, this is easy. The difference between a 352 and 390 is 1/4" more stroke. The 352 stroke is 3-1/2". The 390 stroke is 3-3/4".

Remember, Ford numbers their cylinders starting on the RH (passenger's) side starting front-to-back (1,2,3,4) Put the crank damper on TDC. Pull #1 & #4 plugs out and mark the depths with a welding rod down the plug holes. I use a Sharpie marker at the valve cover flange. When #1 is up (TDC), #4 is down (BDC).

Accuracy isn't critical. If the distance between your marks is 3.5", you have a 352. If the distance is 3.75" between your marks, that proves the crank has a 390/427 stroke.

As a side note: If you can't read the timing marks, simply put the welding rod in #1 spark plug hole and rotate the crank slowly. When it comes all the way up, stop. - Dave Dare
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  #15  
Old 07-31-2012, 10:39 PM
newbird59 newbird59 is offline
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Dave,

Thanks for the info!! The person that was going to sell the engine to me isn't getting back to me so I'm not sure if the sale is going to happen. I guess the search continues!

I have a few question while i'm at it though. When you say "put the crank damper on TDC" and "BCD", what does that mean? And how do I do that? by hand?

also, how do I mark it at the valve cover flange and where is that?

Thank you again,

David
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  #16  
Old 08-01-2012, 12:05 AM
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Dave, the timing marks are at TDC (Top Dead Center) when the pointer is at '0' on the crank pulley. Refer to your Shop Manual under Tuneup Procedure.
BDC=Bottom Dead Center.

Yes, you can put a socket on the crankshaft bolt with a long breaker bar and turn the engine by hand.

My preference is to use a welding rod for measuring because it's thin, clean, easy to mark, and I have dozens of them. You can use a dowel or anything that will fit down a spark plug hole. When you put a 'stick' down the hole, use something as a reference and mark the 'stick'. I use the valve cover flange (the surface where bolts go through the valve cover) because it's convenient and it runs along the side of the head.

You can mark at the spark plug hole if you prefer. It's just a comparison.
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  #17  
Old 08-01-2012, 03:05 AM
gaffney1951 gaffney1951 is offline
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Default What Dave said ...

Pull all the plugs first, much easier to turn. Mike
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  #18  
Old 08-01-2012, 10:12 PM
newbird59 newbird59 is offline
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Thanks Mike. I'll do that.

Dave,

Thank you for the info, you're a huge help. I will do that when I look at another engine! for now, I think i'll practice on the 352 in my bird.


-David
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  #19  
Old 08-02-2012, 01:36 AM
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Dave, we are here to help. The 352 is a great engine to learn. It is still a true FE just like the 390 and 427. I hope you learn it inside and out. - Dave
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  #20  
Old 09-06-2012, 06:45 PM
newbird59 newbird59 is offline
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Ok...I may have found a good 390 to rebuild. The guy is charging 550.00 and 650.00 with delivery and an engine stand. What do you guys think? How do I know if it's a good rebuildable engine?

Here are some photos of what he is including in the deal

*Aluminum intake manifold (when I looked at it, it looks like a Ford intake. It has "FOMOCO" on it)
*Full engine gasket kit
*Ford chrome bolts for the full engine.
*New cam and lifters. They are Elgin brand and I don't think the lifters and can are very good quality but it's included. Any thoughts?
*Exhaust manifolds. Now..these look cracked. It could be the paint of something on them but I do see cracks.
*Braided spark plug wires

I think there is more but I can't think of anything right now.









-David
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