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Donna's Resto-Mod Red '59 Convertible!

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  • kimmc
    Experienced
    • Mar 5 2014
    • 126

    #16
    Harry L: Following are my notes regarding installation of the quarter windows in our '59 convertible. After a number of starts and taking things apart several times I found these steps made the job go a little better. I did not/have not tightened any nuts or bolts yet; I'm waiting until I am ready to do a final window adjustment. I did install the new outside fuzzy weatherstrip along the top of the window slot before doing the following.

    1) install rear vertical runner/channel

    2) install regulator; use top two bolts; do not put bottom two bolts in yet. Regulator arms with pins should be in "window up" position.

    3) install front vertical channel (the guide for nylon rollers attached to window frame); for the top two bolts of this piece, unscrew the front bolt enough to leave channel unobstructed for insertion of nylon rollers.

    4) install metal rollers into guide on window frame; each roller can be easily inserted by hand into the frame.

    5) slide window down into rear vertical channel; tip window back and forth to work window into front and rear vertical channels (this took some effort to get everything right; do not insert regulator pins in rollers yet). (Attaching the regulator using just the top two bolts allows the regulator to be moved/tipped to one side to aid in getting the window frame into the front and rear channels.)

    6) once window frame is in front and rear channels correctly, snap top front pin into roller first then insert the top rear pin in rear roller of the frame.

    7) crank window down about 2/3 of way, install roller in short horizontal channel, and loosely bolt into position, then snap lower regulator pin into roller

    8) install bottom 2 bolts in regulator

    9) install motor

    Let me know how this works for you; I would welcome any tips you have. I am sure there are some experts among this group that could add some helpful suggestions. The shop manual instructions really were not much help; I had to find my own way. Anyhow, good luck. I am moving on to installation of the vent and side windows next! Fun, fun. mc

    Comment

    • Harry LePargneux
      Apprentice
      • Sep 30 2010
      • 63

      #17
      I don't plan on removing mine for awhile, but I will let you know if I find any other useful ideas.
      Thank you for your help.
      Harry

      Comment

      • simplyconnected
        Administrator
        • May 26 2009
        • 8787

        #18
        Originally posted by kimmc
        ...The shop manual instructions really were not much help; I had to find my own way...
        I agree. That is why we have so much discussion on this forum.

        Kim, your notes are very valuable to anyone doing this work and we are grateful you were kind enough to share with our fellow restorers.

        This topic comes up periodically because setting glass is not easy and the book isn't very clear. There is a huge learning curve involved so any information you add is very helpful. To old veteran restorers, some points are a 'given'. That doesn't help the guy who never set glass before. For instance, pulling the pins out of the rollers to remove the regulators, sure saves a lot of headache and, placing the rollers in the channel first before poking the regulator pins in, and keeping all the bolts loose while setting the channel... Thank You. - Dave
        Member, Sons of the American Revolution

        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
        --Lee Iacocca

        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

        Comment

        • kimmc
          Experienced
          • Mar 5 2014
          • 126

          #19
          Donna's Resto-Mod Red '59 Convertible!

          Both roller guides for the quarter window were pretty badly bent. I had to straighten both before they could be re-installed. Several pictures attached.
          Attached Files

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          • kimmc
            Experienced
            • Mar 5 2014
            • 126

            #20
            Donna's Resto-Mod Red '59 Convertible!

            Dave. Thanks for your comments and encouragement. Whenever I am working on some unfamiliar mechanical issue I always think that if I could just have a few minutes with someone who has done what I am attempting, they could save me hours of frustration trying to do something the wrong way! So, posting what worked for me is my small contribution to this forum and all those who, like me, are looking for any information that will help them over their particular hurdle. By the way, I liked your video of the fan motor resurrection! mc

            Comment

            • kimmc
              Experienced
              • Mar 5 2014
              • 126

              #21
              Donna's Resto-Mod Red '59 Convertible!

              Time for an update. When I last posted the quarter windows were installed (but not operated yet). Now I have completed installation of both vent windows. All the chrome and stainless was cleaned, polished and buffed; new glass, glass tape, and weatherstrip was installed and new mohair was glued in the division channel. I can now remove and install a vent window assembly in about 5 minutes....practice makes perfect! I learned some things along the way that I thought I would share (the pro's here probably already know most of these things).
              1) 5/32 inch diam x 1/2 inch grip pop rivets work well to secure the vent latch plate and steel "U" channel in the frame; place the flat rivet head in the bottom of the channel so the rivets will not interfere with the weatherstrip that lays in the channel.
              2) riveting the 12" straight w/s in place is a two person job.
              3) the formed w/s that covers the other 3 sides of the frame is held in place by 6 machine screws (and 3M w/s adhesive). Before gluing the w/s in place, I first ran the screws into the holes in order to establish the threads in the thin brass strip embedded in the w/s. This made installation of the screws into the glued w/s a ton easier.
              4) I used 1/16 inch thick x 1.5 inch wide rubber glass tape around just 3 sides of the new vent glass; Dawn dishwashing liquid soap (neat) was smeared on the glass tape to ease insertion of the glass into its frame. (the soap worked better than mayonnaise; don't try oil, it attacks the rubber).
              5) While its on the bench, install the window in the frame without female hinge part; with window slightly open, slip the female hinge piece over the hinge post on the vent frame, position the hinge into the vent window frame and install the two screws.
              6) to install new mohair in the division bar channel I used 2" wide x 1/16 inch thick mohair. Adhesive was placed in the channel and while still wet, the mohair was put in place and the old vent glass was moved back and forth in the channel to secure the mohair. Later the excess mohair material was trimmed off with a razor blade.
              7) I put anti-seize thread lubricant on all threaded parts, especially the 4 bolts on the vent assembly that are used to adjust the entire piece into correct alignment.

              So far everything is looking pretty good. I was able to buy the glass tape and mohair that I needed from my local auto glass shop. Now I am ready to move on to the side windows. The parts are ready; I am waiting for 1 piece of weatherstrip.

              Comment

              • kimmc
                Experienced
                • Mar 5 2014
                • 126

                #22
                Donna's Resto-Mod Red '59 Convertible!

                Update: Well, I finished installing the last window in Donna's '59 convertible. A few stops to put in yet but the big work is done and I am pretty satisfied. I used an electric drill and shaft salvaged from a trashed window motor to run the regulators up and down and all things work well. Yay! I expect there will be some final window adjustments to be made later when the the top goes back on and all the new weatherstrip goes in. As with installation of the quarter and vent windows, I learned some things that made installing the door window go more smoothly.

                I used a different procedure than the one described in the Technical Resources Library. I assembled the new glass, glass tape, and sash weatherstrip in the stainless frame and regulator sash while everything was on the bench top. I also put the new rollers in the guides on the regulator sash (see picture). In the door, the vent window assembly was loosened and the bolts adjusted so that the vent assembly was as far towards the front of the door as it could go. The window channel on the lock side was also loosened and adjusted as far towards the rear of the door as it could go. The lock mechanism, rods, and remote lock assembly installed after the vent window went in were OK as they were. However, the motorized regulator is held in place by 4 small bolts. The top 2 were loosened and the bottom 2 were removed completely. This is a key step because it allows the regulator to be "canted" to one side as the window is placed in position. The regulator should also be moved to within a couple of inches of the "window up" position. I put the glass in the rear channel first, then in the vent channel, That was the easy part. Getting the regulator pins snapped into the rollers by feel is a challenge (unless one has extraordinarily long arms you can't reach through the access hole and look in from the top of the door at the same time). I put the front pin in first, the rear pin in the regulator sash was second, and then the bottom pin in the lower guide channel was last. Removed bolts were replaced and windows adjusted, stops installed, and operation checked. And that was it. Hope this will help those of you that tackle this task. I was able to do it without any prior experience.
                Attached Files

                Comment

                • YellowRose
                  Super-Experienced


                  • Jan 21 2008
                  • 17229

                  #23
                  Donna's Resto-Mod Red '59 Convertible!

                  Kim, that is looking good! Thanks for posting those tips on how you did it also. That should help a lot of people in the future.

                  Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
                  The Terminator..... VTCI #11178 ITC #6000 Yellow Mustang Registry (YMR) #12188
                  Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or Call (Cell) 210-875-1411

                  https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm
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                  https://faye.rayclark.info/index.html

                  Comment

                  • kimmc
                    Experienced
                    • Mar 5 2014
                    • 126

                    #24
                    Donna's Resto-Mod Red '59 Convertible!

                    This past week I decided to spiffy up the tail light plates; they have some small pitting and the black paint was dull and chipped. So I polished the chrome, then picked up some good 1/4 inch masking tape at the auto paint store, and cleaned the plates for paint. Putting on the masking tape was a tedious job. I just used a spray can of Rustoleum Satin Black for the paint. I was happy with the result; the pits still show but hey, I am going for a driver-quality restoration, not a show car. Yesterday I put them on the car and I think they look fine. Today I read Nyles thread that there are decals available and that Nylac can be used to seal and protect the chrome and paint. Great info but I wish I had read that before I put the tail lights on the car. I would have protected my work with the Nylac; now I will probably be taking them off just to do that! Rats! Am attaching some pictures; they really don't show things very well I guess because of the shop lighting but you can get the idea.
                    Attached Files

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