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  #41  
Old 02-03-2009, 12:10 AM
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Bart, good work!!!

Pertronix: your resistance is off by about 10%. This also assumes your meter is spot on accurate. I would be surprised if this was your problem but let us know what they say!!

Plugs: I would use the Champions until you get the matter resolved (old rule of thumb: have as few variables as possible). I have been using the AC Delco version of whatever the shop manual recommends and they do very well. I think an "R" in the plug name means "resistor" which to me means less spark so I avoid them (no radio problems either). I also have metal core plug wires for less voltage drop. An excellent spark is always a good thing!

Choke: apparently that has to be done "just right". In the long run, your solution will eventually be the product of determination and attention to detail.

john

Last edited by JohnG : 02-03-2009 at 12:13 AM.
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  #42  
Old 02-03-2009, 11:57 AM
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There is much more to a properly adjusted choke than just varying the setting of the choke cap. Please read your shop manual very closely.

As for plugs, copper plugs (non-suppression) should be the preferred type (IMO) as platinum are meant for extremely high voltage output and are very expensive. If one could find MOTORCRAFT BF-42 (with no other PN designation such as R or S, they would offer the least reistance.

PERTRONIX requires full BAT VLT to the module and if a stock coil, resistance voltage to the coil. If a FLAMETHROWER or other hot coil, it will also need full BAT VLT. The instruction sheets are available on the PERTRONIX site.
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  #43  
Old 02-03-2009, 12:13 PM
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I found some BF-42's listed on E-Bay. I may pick those up.

I have full battery voltage going to the Pertronix coil. Measured both while cranking, and during run.

Regarding the plug wires themselves -- is there any reference to whether the original plug wires were resistor wires or not?
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  #44  
Old 02-03-2009, 02:13 PM
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The shop manual for my '58 says they are resistance wires designed to filter out frequencies that would be heard on the radio. The resistance should not exceed 24,000 ohms.
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  #45  
Old 02-03-2009, 02:25 PM
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Thanks John. I was looking for it in the 60 manual in the specs at the end of chapter 2, but finally found it on Page 2-5.

For the 60 it says "Radio Resistance Wires" with no more than 24,500 Ohms per wire.

So, Resistance Wires, with non-resistor plugs --OK.
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Last edited by bcomo : 02-03-2009 at 02:28 PM.
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  #46  
Old 02-03-2009, 02:56 PM
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I checked the resistance on the longest wire in the new MortorCraft set that I put on. Checked it with my digital and also my analog multimeter. I get 11,400 Ohms. So that's OK.

So, now the plugs are next.
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  #47  
Old 02-03-2009, 04:11 PM
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I suppose you could be a skeptic and check the one
from the coil to the cap... if that one is weak, all the others suffer...
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  #48  
Old 02-03-2009, 06:02 PM
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That wire is new out of the same MotorCraft box also. I could check the resistance, but what would that tell me? I don't have any spec on the coil wire resistance to compare to.
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  #49  
Old 02-03-2009, 11:52 PM
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Resistance is proportional to length so if a 24" wire has 12,000 ohms (for sake of discussion) then an 8" wire ought to be in the ballpark of 1/3rd of that or about 4,000 ohms.

The specific values are not as important as simply looking for a wire which has unusually high resistance (like 100,000 ohms) or is simply open (infinite resistance)

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  #50  
Old 02-07-2009, 03:12 PM
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I decided to start mine today. Has not been run in a month as the weather has been in the teens. Today is in the mid 30s and I was working in the garage so I decided to let it run for awhile.

I pumped the pedal about 3 times and cranked it over for about 30 seconds before it ran. Ran pretty ratty for the first 30 seconds or so after that. Seemed like it was not getting gas in that period. My choke was completely closed at first. Probably should be open a tad and needs some fine tuning.

I had the air filter off and the hood open. I have a see through gas filter and at first you could see the surges of gas being pumped through it. I wonder if the float bowl was pretty empty due to evaporation (I am in an area with the 10% ethanol mix). I should have looked in the little window first on the side of the carb.

I do have a question for one of you guys who knows carbs alot better than I do (not hard). Once the car starts, isn't the choke - throttle plate supposed to open up some almost immediately?? This is independent of the temperature of anything as it's still stone cold. I have been having problems for a few months with the car running really crummy in the interim between starting and somewhat warmed up. Acts really rich. What can I check or adjust??

thanks!
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