Oil pump & screen removal

[Rock&Roll Firebird]

Hey guys, I will be cleaning an oil pan on my '59, replacing oil pump and o.p. drive shaft. From what I understood, these steps are not very complicated to do. Just need to precise some points and ask you more experienced for the proper procedure:

• I have the info that removing the oil screen helps to remove the oil pan. does it mean that after lifting the engine and loosening the oil pan, the screen can be removed and after that the oil pan comes out completely?

• what is the best engine place to jack the engine up?

• is there anything to pay a special attention to when replacing the oil pump?

Thank you.

[simplyconnected]

This is a good thing. I strongly urge all of our members to clean out their oil pan and pickup screen on their Squarebird because it's very cheap insurance. Truth be told, many of our members have already done it and they swear this has saved their engine from early major overhaul. I agree. There is only one way to find out what lives on the bottom of your oil pan. Also know that your oil pump munches everything it picks up before it gets to the filter.

Hey guys, I will be cleaning an oil pan on my '59, replacing oil pump and o.p. drive shaft. From what I understood, these steps are not very complicated to do. Just need to precise some points and ask you more experienced for the proper procedure:

• I have the info that removing the oil screen helps to remove the oil pan. does it mean that after lifting the engine and loosening the oil pan, the screen can be removed and after that the oil pan comes out completely?

Yes. The pickup is on a long arm that goes to the bottom of the pan. After the arm is unbolted, you might need to turn the crankshaft if a counterbalance is in the way. There is no need to force or bend any parts.
Re-assemble in the opposite order.

• what is the best engine place to jack the engine up?

I do this from above the engine with an engine hoist. Make sure your car is OFF the wheels and on jack stands. When you get the engine up, put wood in the crossmember so the engine rests on it safely.

• is there anything to pay a special attention to when replacing the oil pump?

Yes! Pay close attention to your fan and hoses when lifting the engine. They could damage your radiator. Oil pump replacement is straight forward. Make sure the little spring washer is on top the oil pump drive shaft before you replace the pump. It is there to keep the shaft down if you pull the distributor out from the top. I always put a dab of grease in the bottom of my distributor shaft hex. - Dave

[Rock&Roll Firebird]

Make sure your car is OFF the wheels and on jack stands.

Thank you Dave for your rapid and detailed help. Can you please explain why the car needs to be off the wheels during this procedure?

[simplyconnected]

If you are getting under this car, you want it OFF the suspension and resting on solid jack stands. Give the car a good shake before getting under there.

When hoisting the engine, you will not have wheel suspension to deal with. You lift, and the engine separates by that much. Suspension makes this job unsafe, especially when dropping the engine back down. If the engine 'hangs up' on something and suddenly lets go, you won't have the body jumping up. Keep all your body parts out of pinch points at all times. - Dave

[big bird]

oil pump prime

The oil pump needs primeing .

[tbird430]

If your Bird has factory AC, watch that firewall plenum too (black plastic box that encases your evaporator).

The top bell housing bolts will crack her in a jiffy if you don't watch as you lift the engine up...

-Jon in TX.

[Rock&Roll Firebird]

Hey guys! My very first oil pan removal is done and thanks to your valuable advice it went without any major issues. Thanks Dave for stressing the need of car lifting - that was a big help on lifting the engine.

Now, below I post several images and need to ask about some more stuff...

Here is the treasure. Besides a lot of steel particles in the mud there were also two pieces of something that looked like some kind of caps - any idea what those are for and how those got into the pan?

[Rock&Roll Firebird]

Not sure if anything can be judged from these pictures. If so, any opinion is welcome...

[Rock&Roll Firebird]

Can you say if this is the original oil pan?

[Rock&Roll Firebird]

Again if anything can be said to the state of these parts, please go ahead... Also do I get it right that the holes highlighted in the last picture are the drain holes that were advised to clean with a rifle brush and a solvent afterwards? Anything else advised to do/clean on this part while the covers are removed?

[Rock&Roll Firebird]

And lastly:

a) do you advise to use any kind of sealant on the oil pan gasket? If so, on both sides?

b) what kind of quality oil pan gasket do you recommend - cork, rubber, else? Any of those from Rockauto (bellow)

c) is there a need to soak the gasket in oil for at least an hour before assembly as advised here on the forum?

d) how often is advised to repeat this whole procedure?

e) as advised at some point: 'The top of the cylinder head (and rocker arm assemblies) should be flushed with a solvent after cleaning and caught in a drain pan placed under the open crankcase' - what kind of solvent is suitable for that?

f) as advised at some point: 'You need to clean the shaft and the rocker arm holes.' - is there a need to take anything apart before doing this?

Thanks a lot for your help!

[simplyconnected]

...Besides a lot of steel particles in the mud there were also two pieces of something that looked like some kind of caps - any idea what those are for and how those got into the pan?

Your block has these in a few places, to plug oil gallery holes. Here are two by your distributor hole:


If you have low oil pressure, it is because these plugs have come out of their oil holes. There are more plugs on top as you look toward the rear of the engine:

There is another behind your cam sprocket:


Keep all brushes OUT of your engine. Brass and steel brushes are the worst. They always leave bristles behind and you have no way to wash the holes out.

Your engine looks very clean inside. If you keep using detergent oil, there is no need to open it to clean in the future.

Use the top oil pan gasket. The HEART symbol means this is the most popular. I always spread a THIN layer of Permatex SILICONE BLACK (or RED) on both sides of the gasket and I let it cure before installing. Make sure your gasket surfaces are clean. I mean REALLY clean. Use lacquer thinner on cast iron parts, then spread a thin layer of sealer on it. Make sure your gasket sealer is made for oil and gasoline. Regular RTV will not work.
Our auto parts stores carry this. I use it. - Dave

[Rock&Roll Firebird]

Thank you Dave, I guess the only way to find where are the oil plugs missing is with the engine out or at least with the intake removed...

Is the low oil pressure state signalized only with the dash signal oil light or there are some other indicators/engine behavior for this?

[scumdog]

Again if anything can be said to the state of these parts, please go ahead... Also do I get it right that the holes highlighted in the last picture are the drain holes that were advised to clean with a rifle brush and a solvent afterwards? Anything else advised to do/clean on this part while the covers are removed?

Looking at all those pictures it seems your engines 'insides' are quite clean - I am surprised at the debris in the bottom of the pan!

If I ever take the pan and valve-covers off my '66 390 I would hope it all looks as clean as yours.

[simplyconnected]

For true oil pressure readings, screw in a mechanical pressure gauge. You can use one that goes up to 100 psi.

Yes, it's time to take your intake manifold off. Remove your push rods first. - Dave