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Old 06-04-2009, 08:06 AM
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JohnG JohnG is offline
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Prior to setting the puller up, you can possibly loosen things up a bit in the following way: pull on the wheel with one arm wrapped around it while taking a modest ball peen hammer and giving the threaded shaft that the nut came off of a few taps. Don't overdo it and damage the threads on the shaft. If you have a friend to help, this is good. One can pull on the wheel and the other tap.

You could also put a spare nut on the very end of the shaft and hit that. The threads will be protected while the nut doesnt matter.

The basic idea is the shock of the hammer strikes may break some of the bonds holding the steering wheel on. Kind of like a poor man's impact gun. Basically the same method you might use to get the flywheel off of a push type Briggs and Stratton lawn mower.


Last edited by JohnG : 06-04-2009 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 06-04-2009, 11:27 AM
Hawkrod Hawkrod is offline
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You can use fan bolts if you have extras laying around. Don't use them on a fan again as they stretch quite a bit when being used on a puller but when I am in a junkyard that is where I grab them (I carry a plate with holes in it and grab bolts in the junkyard, less to carry!), Hawkrod
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Old 06-04-2009, 12:06 PM
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In the posted pic of the steering wheel "puller" tool, the main body (which the center bolt threads into) is flipped around incorrectly. The flat machined side should rest against the 2 outter bolt heads when being used....


The 1960 Ford Thunderbird. The WORLD'S most wanted car....

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Old 06-04-2009, 02:43 PM
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Anders Anders is offline
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Quite a while since I visited this thread.
I fixed myself a tool last year before I sended my steering wheel to Jed Zimmerman for a restoration job. A stunning job by him. Other "vintage-car-friends" are very impressed. As a matter of fact, Im right now working with putting it back, but unfortunally my "c" clips is broken and I need to find a new one before I can go any further.
..."Lil darling Ruth"
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