carb quest

[thunderstruck]

Good morning,
first off, I am new to this forum and wanted to thank everyone who participates for the wealth of knowledge.

I have a 62 Tbird that needs a carb rebuild. I am considering purchasing an aftermarket carb (not really for performance) if the cost is close to having the original rebuilt. My question is, what makes and models (if any) are a direct bolt-on for the 390 with a 4 bbl? Thanks for any help.

[Guest]

Holley goes right on. But from experience the autolight is the better choice. Just my 2 cents. New holley or rebuild yours about the same cost. I've been down this road. I could go on & on. ...............................................Bill

[Guest]

I went through the same thing. I just put on the Holley 4160 with the non-adjustable floats. Its cool since we all know the reputation of holley and how they need constant adjustments thats why I posted the "fuel pump psi" thread. Also holleys are pretty much ford friendly in the sense that they are square bored and have the ford kick-down set up so installing is 10min job then just adjust for your altitude and take her around the block and dial her in and you're set. Its also a 600 cfm so it makes a good replacement. You dont want to go too high of a cfm or you could blow your syncros in your tranny as a good buddy of mine learned the hard way. Try going to www.summit.com and just put in under "engine" ford 390 and it will give you hundreds of engine parts along with carbs. Best of luck

[thunderstruck]

Thanks for the responses. I ended up catching a new one on Ebay for $125, which is well below retail, and I already have it at the house!

I am planning to replace that this weekend, if the weather holds up. Anyone have a good resource for purchasing fuel filters? I wanted to do this at the same time so I don't send a bunch of crap into the new carb.

[Guest]

Napa should carry the original fuel filter that goes on the fuel pump. I would recommend that you also get an in line filter and put it in the line somewhere before it reaches the carb. Makes for a little extra protection. The clear ones are good because you can see if anything is in your tank like pieces of rust and what not and the elements inside are disposable and easy to replace. A 3 pack is like $10. Good luck!

[thunderstruck]

Thanks again for all the help. I got the filter and put the new carb on yesterday. I had some swap issues though, not sure if this is normal.

I had to re-route the main fuel line coming in as the port for it was on the side of the Holley where my original was on the front. I also ended up plugging two vaccuum lines, but I suppose that is pretty normal.

We made some adjustments to it after the install, but its still running at a higher idle than it should. The main idle set screw is all the way out (or out far enough that it isn't affecting the idle). I read somewhere that there is a fast idle screw on the other side of the carb. Is this an additional setting for the idle? Thanks for any help.

[Guest]

Did you check your timing? Also make sure your linkage is spaced out right. If that arm is screwed forward or back it could be holding the throttle open. I had that problem then realized i had moved it when i was removing/installing the carb and routing the copper oil line to the guages inside. Did you turn your air/fuel mixture screws out 1&1/4 too?

[thunderstruck]

Timing is on the list with plugs and points as the next things to do on the bird. I did adjust the linkage, and it seemed to help; I had to adjust it so it was putting tension on the spring in the back, acting as a return for the throttle.

I haven't adjusted the mixture screws, just put it in as is. Is that a standard issue thing to do with this carb on the tbird?

Did you check your timing? Also make sure your linkage is spaced out right. If that arm is screwed forward or back it could be holding the throttle open. I had that problem then realized i had moved it when i was removing/installing the carb and routing the copper oil line to the guages inside. Did you turn your air/fuel mixture screws out 1&1/4 too?

[Guest]

No matter what the box or the guy behind the parts counter tells you, you always need to adjust the carb. Holleys have a reputation for always needing adjustments. Holley and Edelbrock set them up at factory and distribute them according to region of the U.S. so people living at sea level get carbs adjusted for sea level and people up here (denver) get adjusted for above sea level but you still need to drive around the block a few times and feel out the carb. Try going down a long stip of strait road and punch the gas a few times and see if you feel the car studder and flood out. If you do you know for sure your idle is too high or the air/fuel ratio is off. Could also be a number of things. I know mine studdered pretty bad when I tried it and it was all screw adjustments. Also do check the timing so your timing will be in-sync with the carb adjustments. Oh yeah and dont forget about the kick down! (dont ask how I know that! haha) Good luck man

[Guest]

Was the idle high with your old carb?? (just my gears grindin)

[thunderstruck]

When it was in park it seemed a bit high but not bad. It never seemed high when it was in drive.

[Guest]

Theres a little plastic piece on the linkage, check and see if its sticking and holding the linkage open. I had a broken one and it would get stuck every now and then so id have to pump the gas pedal a few times to "un stick" it.

[thunderstruck]

What do I need to check on the kick down, and where exactly is it? Any pictures?

Thanks again for all the help.

[Guest]

If your not to far I'll look it at for ya. Take all the linkage off and start from there. Mabey your screw will come back into play. And does that holley have an electric choke? if so you have to hook it up. That's one of probs. I had. The electric chokes on these old fe motors don't really work right. Come off to fast. ..................................Bill

[Guest]

YES! I forgot to include that be sure you have the electric choke running to your coil. If it doesnt open up all the way your engine will be starving for air. The holley I got was a manual choke (cost me $30 less than the electric) but I had another holley laying around so I just swapped out the manual for the electric.