Pertronix finally done.

[sidewalkman]

Fairly straight forward job, replacing the resistor wire took the longest. For those that don't know, there is a center chrome inner rig, the outside has a chrome ring, then the ring with the printing (on start acc ) then a small inner ring. You reach behind the switch under the dash, press out towards you and turn the inner ring 1/4 turn counter clockwise and the whole ring assembly comes out, then the switch drops out through the back.

I was confused as the stock coil was still there, I replaced it with the Flame Thrower II but instead of pos / neg it said batt and dist on it, but you wire the batt wire to the + and along with it is the red from the ignitor in the distributor, and the black from the ignitor goes to -.

Set the air gap and you're done. It was running rough because the points were shot and it fired right up and smooth idle. Haven't done a full road test yet but no more points is a good thing.

[Dementedan]

Very cool. I'm glad you posted because I'm about to purchase the Pertronix ignition to replace the points. I've read good things.
Let us know if any issues.
Thanks.

[scumdog]

Very cool. I'm glad you posted because I'm about to purchase the Pertronix ignition to replace the points. I've read good things.
Let us know if any issues.
Thanks.

I would recommend you consider buying a second Pertonix kit and carrying it in the trunk.

When these things die they do so without warning.

(Or at least carry a good set of points and a condenser)

I was lucky, my Pertronix unit died in the driveway after getting home from a 1,400 mile trip!

[Dementedan]

Thanks. I've read that warning as well and plan to keep the old points in the trunk for emergency use. It's small enough so might as well keep it in the trunk with the tool box.

[Tbird1044]

My car is a 1960 and not sure if it applies to other years, but when I removed my resistor wire, I found a bullet connector at the fire wall in the ignition wire going to the coil. I'm pretty sure that the wire from the first bullet connector to the coil is the resistor wire and the short wire running from the fire wall to the switch is a regular wire. I just replaced the wire from the bullet connector to the coil and got full voltage at the coil. This is a whole lot easier than pulling the switch and replacing the entire wire.
Nyles

[sidewalkman]

My car is a 1960 and not sure if it applies to other years, but when I removed my resistor wire, I found a bullet connector at the fire wall in the ignition wire going to the coil. I'm pretty sure that the wire from the first bullet connector to the coil is the resistor wire and the short wire running from the fire wall to the switch is a regular wire. I just replaced the wire from the bullet connector to the coil and got full voltage at the coil. This is a whole lot easier than pulling the switch and replacing the entire wire.
Nyles

Hi Nyles

I just replaced the pink thru the firewall to the bullet connector, the pink is the resistor, the other will carry the full 12V. Pretty simple job once you figure out how to take out the ignition switch.

[Tbird1044]

Wow, I'm going to have to recheck mine.
Nyles