PerTronix Ignitor II Installation - 1960 Thunderbird

[Daleo56]

I have seen a few older posts here but I wanted to show my installation with a current part list and what it takes to retain the stock look.

The first step was to purchase the parts:

PerTronix Ignitor II® Solid-State Ignition Systems 91281

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-91281

and because I wanted to keep the stock look I went with their unmarked stock wire kit:

PerTronix Flame-Thrower 7mm Stock Look Spark Plug Wire Sets 708105

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-708105

You can also go to Advance Auto and get it there for even cheaper with their 20-40% off sales like I did!

So I bought the ignition system and wires and now have to check the wiring and colors to make sure it all works. I have read that you could leave the pink resistance wire in place but I am going to replace it from the ignition to the firewall.

Please correct me if I am not reading the wiring diagram correctly but I believe the resistance is in the pink wire and not after the connector in the red/green wire (brown to solenoid) going to the coil.

I had already replaced that wiring harness with a new one from Ecklers when I first bought the car. If your wires are not in good shape I would recommend this as the new wire harness is clean and looks great!



So now that I have listed the simple parts list I will move to the installation today and post the results this evening.

Here are detailed pictures of the wires prior to starting. We have a rain delay today so part two of the installation will be coming soon!

[Daleo56]

I installed the new PerTronix spark plug wires and they look and fit great! They have no writing on them and the ends look close to the original Ford connections. I removed the old points and condenser and installed the new PerTronix kit. Red to positive on the coil and black to negative on the coil and I was all done. I did heat shrink the wires in black so they would not stand out on the engine.

http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/91281.pdf

I still need to change the pink resistance wire but I will have to wait till next weekend. I did drive it home and you cannot tell I did any changes when opening up the hood. I love the stock look!!!

[simplyconnected]

I don't like to harp on this subject but solid state equipment need full voltage to work properly. Get it from your key switch with new #16AWG copper stranded wire.

Your instruction sheet verifies this on page 2, paragraph 2:
"Recommended Installation: Many vehicles came equipped with ballast resistor or resistance wire. To achieve optimum performance from the Ignitor II ignition system, we recommend removal of these components."

Also, heed the warning about the ground strap inside your distributor. "Electrical ground" is more important than hot wires because it never gets a full length of copper wire, with low resistance, to return to the battery. - Dave

We also discussed removing the brown wire on your starter solenoid.

[Daleo56]

I don't like to harp on this subject but solid state equipment need full voltage to work properly. Get it from your key switch with new #16AWG copper stranded wire.

Your instruction sheet verifies this on page 2, paragraph 2:
"Recommended Installation: Many vehicles came equipped with ballast resistor or resistance wire. To achieve optimum performance from the Ignitor II ignition system, we recommend removal of these components."

Also, heed the warning about the ground strap inside your distributor. "Electrical ground" is more important than hot wires because it never gets a full length of copper wire, with low resistance, to return to the battery. - Dave

We also discussed removing the brown wire on your starter solenoid.

It was only a three mile trip home and I will install my new pink wire this weekend.

I was not part of the brown wire removal conversation. It supplies a full 12v during cranking right? While being redundant now do I have to disconnect it?

Also, I put the ground strap back on the original location after I removed the points and condenser.

[jopizz]

I was not part of the brown wire removal conversation. It supplies a full 12v during cranking right? While being redundant now do I have to disconnect it?

Once you run a new wire to the coil the brown wire will not be used. If you want to leave it on the solenoid so it looks stock then you will need to tape up the existing coil wire.

John

[Daleo56]

Once you run a new wire to the coil the brown wire will not be used. If you want to leave it on the solenoid so it looks stock then you will need to tape up the existing coil wire.

John

I asked earlier in the thread but I want to confirm: The red/green stripe wire going to the coil is not a resistor wire, right? I can terminate the brown wire, tape it back and then hook my new pink wire to the red/green. The wiring on the engine side of the bay is only a few months old and I want to keep it original looking.

[jopizz]

You are correct. The red/green wire is straight copper.

John

[Daleo56]

You are correct. The red/green wire is straight copper.

John

Thank you John! That makes it easy to just do the 3 foot run of pink wire and tape off the brown.

[GTE427]

Is it necessary to disconnect/tape the solenoid end of the brown wire in this case (Pertronix) when removing the resistance wire?

Since it serve as a redundant 12VDC+ source, it would back feed the IGN terminal on the ignition switch during cranking. Is there any harm it that?

In the other thread by Dakota Boy, I understand not connecting the brown wire as his solenoid has been relocated to the starter and this would required additional wiring that isn’t necessary. On a stock FE or MEL, there are many cars that have this Brown wire connected while using the Pertonix’s ignition.

Looking for a clarification between a personal preference versus hazard.

[simplyconnected]

...solid state equipment need full voltage to work properly. Get it from your key switch with new #16AWG copper stranded wire.

Your instruction sheet verifies this on page 2, paragraph 2:
"Recommended Installation: Many vehicles came equipped with ballast resistor or resistance wire. To achieve optimum performance from the Ignitor II ignition system, we recommend removal of these components."...

Please read this with correct understanding. NO PINK WIRE (or any other resistance wire). You need a regular copper wire that supplies full voltage from your key switch.

The brown wire is 'somewhat' the same but I cannot call it 'redundant'. Yes, it also supplies full voltage to the coil but ... think about this ... if you simply 'bump' your starter by bridging your starter solenoid with a jumper cable, your spark plugs will fire whether the key is on or not.

Since Pertronix wants a wire from the key switch, no other wire should backfeed to control your ignition.

• With the brown wire: If your solenoid ever stuck on, the engine will start and run with the key switch off.
• Without the brown wire: If your solenoid ever stuck on, ignition is controlled strictly by the key switch. <--This is what you want.

- Dave

[Daleo56]

My original plan is still correct. Replace the original pink "resistance" wire with a normal pink wire. I went to the store and had got standard pink wire. I want it to look original

The brown one, as I found out, could cause a problem. It could have caused a problem in its original configuration too though. I will cut the end off at the firewall and tie it up.

[GTE427]

The brown wire is 'somewhat' the same but I cannot call it 'redundant'.

Better refered to as a sneak circuit. Thanks for the response Dave.

Dale056,
Great job on the restoration. I admire your work ethic, the pace at which this car is coming together is impressive, hats off to you and the wife.

[Daleo56]

Better refered to as a sneak circuit. Thanks for the response Dave.

Dale056,
Great job on the restoration. I admire your work ethic, the pace at which this car is coming together is impressive, hats off to you and the wife.

Thank you!

I ran a new pink wire from the ignition through the firewall today. I left the old pink wire there and also cut the brown wire and terminated it. Now I just need to spend some time cleaning the old wires!

All done.