She want's to die when hot

[6TB1RD]

After getting the points and plug gaps correct and the timing set, we took the Ol girl out for a spin. On the way home she wanted to die every time we stopped at a red light. Runs great when cold. Lots of power. Spun the rear wheels (stopped with the brakes on) so I know the engine is tight.
1. could this be a timing issue?
2. Also is the vacuum advance Timed or ported.
(full open vacuum or closed until hot.)
3. what else could it possibly be?

[bcomo]

Did you check to see if the choke butteryfly was completely open after it was hot? Mine was only opning up 1/2 way after it was hot and choking the engine at idle. I had to replace the choke thermostat spring.

[6TB1RD]

That is something I never even thought of (Man you just gota love this sight) I would of went days with out even thinking of that.

We are taking her out to day, I will let you all know how it went.

Temp yesterday was 94. man now I see what everyone is talking about we could really feel the heat coming up through the tunnel. really glad I did not take her out 2 weeks ago when it was 104

[Alexander]

You are probably suffering from vapor lock if the car only runs badly when the temperature is hot and the car is at idle. Gas is no longer formulated for carburetored cars. The gas tends to vaporize before it reaches the carburetor. The carburetor can only meter liquid fuel not gaseous fuel. Fuel injected car run under higher fuel line pressure (typically 80 psi). Our fuel pumps are only 7 psi, so it cannot keep the fuel liquid under hot conditions. You can try wrapping insulation on the fuel lines from the fuel pump to the carburetor. Also you can adjust the idle needles when the car is hot to get some improvement.

[6TB1RD]

Not Good

Well she did not die, but when I turned her off she did not want to start! took a bit for her to start but she did. runs great when cold good at higher RPM above about 1000. but poorly below 1000.

Going to be to hot to work on this week (I hate the heat.) shes parked for the next 5 day's

[tbird430]

My dad told me an old shade tree trick he used to do "back in the carburated days". He would use the wooden style clothes pins on the fuel line up to the carb. The wood would help SOAK up the heat, or help dissipate it some. He would use about 3-4 pins keeping them spaced roughly the same distance apart from each other on the line. What? He said it works and I believe him, it just doesn't look good on a show car that's all....

[Alexander]

I have heard that. I would think that wood, being an insulator, would shield the line from heat rather than radiate it.

[6TB1RD]

woodent hurt

I gues I could try any thing at tis point I'm not quiet ready for the car show's yet.

Fuel line insulation kit run about $15.00 and doin't look to bad.

[Alexander]

Where did you get the fuel line insulation kit from? I bought one years ago from Eastwood Restoration. It was an aluminum with cloth composite material with Velcro, so it could be easily installed and removed.

[bcomo]

Since this is about vapor lock, can I ask this?

I just took my 430 out (95 degrees), drove to get gas (about 20 miles round trip), idled it in the driveway to check the trans fluid, then adjusted the mixture screws -- temp gauge was higher than normal, but no boil over with a 13 lb radiator cap.

I have the stock 5 blade fan, with no shroud.

My question is -- Does vapor lock happen to "certain engines" with the way that the fuel line is routed? Or, is it just luck that you do or don't get vapor lock?

[Alexander]

Some cars are more prone to vapor locking, due to fuel line routing, fuel pump placement and fuel filter placement. Also the amount of insulation between the carburetor and the intake manifold affect the tendency to vapor lock. Flathead Fords were famous for being prone to vapor locking.

More old carburetor cars are now prone to vapor locking due to the formulation of gasoline, which in our area is 10 percent alcohol. This causes the fuel to have a higher volatility.

I looked at the Dana site. There are several solutions to cooling the diesel return line. I wonder if this can be adapted to gasoline fuel lines. http://www.dana.com/Automotive_Syste...roverview.aspx

[tbird430]

I meant 2 say that the wooden clothes pins help to absorb the heat from the FUEL LINE, thus helping keep the fuel inside the line cooler.... Sorry.

[bcomo]

I did a quick search on "Preventing Vapor Lock" and found references to using the "Clothes Pins" (as already mentioned); "Aluminum Foil"; and also "Slit Rubber Hose" over the fuel line to cool it.

One other thing was very interesting:

"Make VERY sure that there are no restrictions in the fuel line between the tank and the fuel pump - no bends, no filter, no crimps in the line, and also make sure that any rubber or other fittings (before the fuel pump) are absolutly air tight."

"Remember that this area of the fuel system (before the fuel pump) is actually under a vacuum when the pump is running, so a very minor leak, too small to observe fluid leaking when the car isn't running, will still admit some air to the suction side of the pump, bringing about vapor lock at any provocation"

My 60 has two rubber hose areas in the fuel line. One is at the rear by the gas tank, and the other is in front before the steel line to the fuel pump. So that would be 4 clamps to check.

[6TB1RD]

JC Whitney has the fuel line kit

I did a search and found a few some are outragesly priced while others are nicely priced. JC Whitney has the best price.

Found if I do a search for wire insulation kit you get better results then fuel line insulation kit.

[Alexander]

"Make VERY sure that there are no restrictions in the fuel line between the tank and the fuel pump - no bends, no filter, no crimps in the line, and also make sure that any rubber or other fittings (before the fuel pump) are absolutely air tight."

"Remember that this area of the fuel system (before the fuel pump) is actually under a vacuum when the pump is running, so a very minor leak, too small to observe fluid leaking when the car isn't running, will still admit some air to the suction side of the pump, bringing about vapor lock at any provocation"

My 60 has two rubber hose areas in the fuel line. One is at the rear by the gas tank, and the other is in front before the steel line to the fuel pump. So that would be 4 clamps to check.

Very true. I reduced my problem of vapor lock, after bending a new fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor. There was a larger fuel line diameter after the in-line fuel filter than before the filter. It is easy to see how this can cause vaporization.

There should be no hose between the gas tank and the main fuel line. You need a rubber hose between the main fuel line and the fuel pump, because of the twisting of the engine.