Wires going to the coil on a '58?

[blue 58]

While I wait for a good deal on a replacement carb, I'm at the point where I am trying to see if my 352 will fire up at all. But, I only see two wires available for use on the ignition coil terminals. One comes from the distributor, and the other comes from a wrapped harness along next to a sensor in the intake manifold (temperature sending unit maybe?). From a wiring diagram I found online, apparently there is supposed to be four wires going to the coil, two on each terminal? Can someone send me some info or photos of where their coil wires are coming from and how many there should be? I tried using these two alone, and the ignition resistor started smoking. Thanks in advance.

Eric

[jopizz]

There should be only two. The black wire from the distributor is the negative and the other one (probably red or brown) is the positive. The wires are joined in the harness; one goes to the coil resistor and the other to the solenoid. If the resistor smokes it's probably defective.

John

[blue 58]

Wow really? Even the factory shop manual shows three wires going to the coil...one from the distributor, one from the relay and one from the resistor. I guess if they join in the harness somewhere, that would make sense. Does it make sense that the starter wont turn when the wires are connected to the coil, but it does turn when they aren't?

Eric

[jopizz]

Did you verify that the wires are on the correct terminals on the coil. It sounds like it's grounding out. If they are correct then your coil may be bad.

John

[blue 58]

Yes. I actually tried it both ways and the resistor smoked both times. I'll replace the resistor first. Thanks.

[jopizz]

The car should start without the resistor. Just unplug it. If it still doesn't start then it's probably your coil. You'll just smoke another resistor if it is.

John

[yellow98cobra]

Carb on Ebay

Hey Eric I saw this on Ebay...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380461352428?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

[simplyconnected]

Eric, follow the diagram in our Technical Resource Library. It is correct for your car.

Let's start by saying, the points ground the coil. When this intentional ground happens every time the points close, a high voltage spark is created. So, the small Distributor wire goes to the NEG (-) post on your Coil. The Coil's case is also grounded.

It IS possible for your coil to have a faulty internal short to ground. If you have a known good coil I suggest you try it.

To clarify... The key switch has a wire connected to the Ign post that feeds your ballast resistor. The other side of the resistor is connected to your Coil's plus (+) side. Also, this same (+) post has a wire that goes to your Starting Solenoid's post (closest to the Starter wire). This wire bypasses the resistor when the Starter Relay is energized.

The function of the resistor is to limit 'charging current' going to the coil, and to slow the counter EMF going back into your Key Switch. With the engine running, if you check voltage with a meter on the (+) side of your Coil and the other prod on ground, you will notice the voltage is in excess of 30volts. This is possible because of the ballast resistor (with affects of the coil). If the resistor is bypassed by the Starter Relay, voltage on the Coil's (+) side will be 12. Notice I said, 'bypassed', not shorted. Never short the ballast resistor to ground or it will burn and open in no time. I hope this helps. - Dave

[blue 58]

Thanks everyone. I'll try these tips this weekend. And thanks for the eBay link. Not a bad deal but still three times as much as a used 1406 I've found on Craigslist....might be worth the gamble.

[blue 58]

Update. I spent all morning on the car and essentially found more problems than solutions. The coil I have is brand new. The resistor I have is brand new. We tested voltage every which way. With the ground side of the coil plugged into the wire from the distributor and the positive coming from the resistor, the resistor smokes and the voltage at the coil reads 6v. When the same two wires are tested off of the coil, it reads 12.4 volts and the resistor doesn't smoke. Does that mean that my new coil is bad also?

Second, does the resistor send voltage constantly, or is it only supposed to be hot when the ignition switch is in run, or start?

Third, can someone tell me if there is a fuse box somehere? The wire going from the ignition switch starter post to the starter relay does not get any power at the relay end. I even jumped it to the hot post on the ignition switch and still nothing, so there must be a break in the wire somewhere, or a blown fuse.

Thanks once again....it's been a frustrating day.

[simplyconnected]

Follow your electrical diagram. Notice a yellow power wire starting at the battery side of the starter relay. It feeds your headlight switch with NO fuse. From there a yellow jumper feeds your Key switch (on the Batt terminal).

Ford made absolutely sure, no failed fuse would prevent your car from getting off the railroad tracks. The ignition is hot when the key is turned to ON or START.

I have described the remainder of the circuit. Use sound troubleshooting techniques and don't let anything sidetrack you. - Dave

[63-4drpost]

power

run a wire from the + side of the battery to the ignition side of the coil, then short a screwdriver across the starter solenoid and start the engine.(make sure it is in Park!)