Bushings

[Astrowing]

Got the lower arms out yesterday evening, and the springs did just drop out. I was afraid I didn't have the car high enough, but that wasn't a problem. The floor jack had the range to get up to the lower arm and it worked great. Should get the arms and new bushings back today to continue the clean up. It was very intense physical work, but I kind of enjoyed it!

On the upper bumper, Mac's website says 59-60. Is the 58 different? I don't have one to see what the original looked like.

[DKheld]

My upper bumpers were there (mostly) when I did the suspension overhaul although as Dave mentioned I replaced them because they were 50 years old. The one on the drivers side was split and half of it was missing. They did look in appearance just like the replacements and like the ones Dave posted here (COAZ-3020-A). Same with the bottom ones.
Glad to hear you're having success with the project.

Eric
registry 5347

[Astrowing]

I should have been listening to the advice on the engine mounts better. The middle freeze plugs are going to have to be changed out and they are under the engine mounts. I guess that didn't sink in until I was looking at the yesterday evening and the right side freeze plug is leaking just sitting there with lots of sulphur leaching out.

[DKheld]

Shoot - we're all still learnin'.

Depending on how bad it is I've had good luck with that powered silver stop leak stuff that you poor in the radiator - comes in a little tube. It's a temporary fix and my last 5 days or 5 years. Maybe that will get you by this summer until you have a chance to replace the freeze plugs when you're not using the car as much. For one leak I would only use about a 1/4 of the tube at a time and see if it stops. I'm sure it could plug up a cooling passage in the head if you used the whole tube at once and cause more damage but I've had pretty good luck with it.

On my way to buy some aspirin because I think I'll get beat up for this recommendation - Oh well.

Eric
registry 5347

[simplyconnected]

...It was very intense physical work, but I kind of enjoyed it!

On the upper bumper, Mac's website says 59-60. Is the 58 different? I don't have one to see what the original looked like.

Make no mistake, suspension work is BULL WORK. But nothing is more gratifying after you're done. A piece of you is in that car now, and you know exactly what was done, and the quality of materials used. You will feel the difference in steering and ride, and have confidence that it will last another very long time.

De-rusting and painting parts sounds easy but it's not. I start with a wire brush on a drill motor, then I graduate to hydrochloric acid (done outside on a HOT day). Wear goggles and rubber gloves. Then, I wash the acid off and use phosphoric acid.

Phosphoric acid is much more mild, but it removes 'flash rust' immediately, and it leaves a thin phosphate coating. That coating will stop rust for about a year by itself, but I paint over it with a rattle can of paint.

The books aren't clear about parts for the '58 T-bird. They look exactly the same as the '59 (to me). I know the Squarebirds and the Ford Cars share the same front spindles and A-arms.

Freeze plugs are cheap and easy to replace if you can get to them. In your case, I would strap the exhaust manifold and lift the engine just enough to pull the engine mount out. Then a screwdriver and small hammer will get the old freeze plug out. They usually punch in and turn in the hole, with half of it in and half of it out of the hole. If it goes all the way in (which is rare), just reach in and grab it with pliers and pull straight out.

Buy brass freeze plugs. Everyone has them or can get them. Most places want to sell a set for ~$10. - Dave

[Guest]

The plugs under the mount aren't as hard as they look. Jack the motor up and take both mounts off and get all of them out. The ones under the mount you can use a socket. You will have to pull the starter, but it's not as bad as it looks

[partsetal]

Getting the old plugs out is ususlly not a problem. Getting them in is. Snap-On and Mac Tools make a special tool that is an 18" bar with a bend that mounts a swivel plate to hold the plug. You then use the supplied air hammer bit on the end of the bar to drive the plug in. In theory it is supposed to work, but I've had no luck on the 430's or the 352's.
What has worked is a copper device with two opposing tapered plates that fit into the hole. When you tighten the acorn nut on the outside, it draws the two plates together, expanding them tightly into the hole. As I recall, they are expensive, but the only thing that worked for me while working with the engine in the car. They are available from NAPA.
Carl

[Astrowing]

I got all the freeze plugs out this evening except for the one behind the starter, and it looks like it was the only one replaced in the last five years or so. I have the engine jacked up to get the engine mounts out and that gives access to the center plugs. It worked well. Interestingly there were two old freeze plugs that had been driven in years ago that were still sitting in the block waiting for me to pull out behind the ones that I removed. I think the gas stations just drove them in and left them to do it really quickly. The owner never knew the difference!

I did take advantage of all the plugs out to flush the bottom end of the engine. There was a lot of grey junk down there and rust of course. I think it will do wonders for engine cooling.

I'll get to start putting new brass freeze plugs back in Saturday and start suspension reassembly!

[simplyconnected]

Sounds like you got everything under control...

I got all the freeze plugs out this evening except for the one behind the starter...

...there were two old freeze plugs that had been driven in years ago that were still sitting in the block...

I did take advantage of all the plugs out to flush the bottom end of the engine...

I'll get to start putting new brass freeze plugs back in Saturday and start suspension reassembly!

Good Man! That's the difference between hiring someone else, and doing your own work. I mean, c'mon... what idiot left freeze plugs in the water jacket (you know it wasn't the car's owner)... It probably took two seconds to pull each one out.

Some guys use a wire (like coat hanger) and they go around the cylinders, digging out rust and junk. Then, a full-blast garden hose washes it all out. Get your raincoat on...

It is impossible to tell how old a freeze plug is from the outside. I know you will pull your starter and do them all.

I use a THIN layer of silicone sealer on the holes and on the freeze plugs. Be sure to clean (sand, then dry) the holes real well so the silicone sticks to the cast iron. Do them one at a time so the silicone is still liquid when you insert the new brass plugs. As you tap the plugs in, a nice bead of silicone will form around the back side. I've never had a brass plug leak, ever.

Gaffney1951 has an idea that I used to get my old bushings out. I used a torch (yes, it was outside). That rubber billows black smoke, softens, and the guts FALL right out. The outer sleeves remain inside the 'A' arms, but you can pound them out easier when they're just shells. - Dave

[Guest]

I've never had any luck with those rubber plugs they still leaked on me. On the pass. side one I fliped the mount around and used it as a press worked for me. Yes use some kind of sealer , you don't really need it but it's cheap ins... just me 2 cent.........

[Astrowing]

I got the brass freeze plugs in and yes the center ones behind the motor mounts and cross frame beam are a bugger to work with. The engine appears to be running 5 degrees cooler after the lower flush.