Kickdown linkage

[DKheld]

I don't have the return spring connected to the carb at the moment because I'm replacing it but here's my '60 linkage. May be a bit slack looking without the return spring.

That metal tab on the drivers side rear corner of your carb is the bracket where the return spring should connect. It's actually upside down on your holley and connects at an angle to the 4100 lining up the return spring in a straight line with the linkage.

My throttle linkage to the gas pedal measures 8 7/8 and there is about 5/8 inches of thread showing behind the lock nut on the kickdown linkage. This worked for my original Ford 4100 carb.

Ironically - after the engine fire I debated rebuilding my 4100, going with an edelbrock or some other route. Steve suggested an EFI but that's just a dream for me. Went with a holley similar to yours but don't have it completed yet. Rather than add a huge spacer for the linkage to clear the intake manifold I cut the unused portion of the bottom of the linkage off. I'll probably have pics later as I get it all bolted on. Will be using the original air cleaner.

The gas pedal will travel further than the carb linkage so I believe that slot in the linkage just allows the gas pedal to be pressed further and not damage the carb linkage. When it does the spring stretches and allows the linkage to keep moving which probably allows more adjustment for the transmission kickdown.
(If any of that makes sense - )

Eric

edit...
Found a pic of the linkage connected with the 4100 (after the fire). You can see how that return spring bracket mounts with the 4100 too.
hummm - we might find that to make the holly work with the COM it needs a solid linkage rather than flexible as original (with the spring).

[sidewalkman]

I don't have the return spring connected to the carb at the moment because I'm replacing it but here's my '60 linkage. May be a bit slack looking without the return spring.

That metal tab on the drivers side rear corner of your carb is the bracket where the return spring should connect. It's actually upside down on your holley and connects at an angle to the 4100 lining up the return spring in a straight line with the linkage.

My throttle linkage to the gas pedal measures 8 7/8 and there is about 5/8 inches of thread showing behind the lock nut on the kickdown linkage. This worked for my original Ford 4100 carb.

Ironically - after the engine fire I debated rebuilding my 4100, going with an edelbrock or some other route. Steve suggested an EFI but that's just a dream for me. Went with a holley similar to yours but don't have it completed yet. Rather than add a huge spacer for the linkage to clear the intake manifold I cut the unused portion of the bottom of the linkage off. I'll probably have pics later as I get it all bolted on. Will be using the original air cleaner.

The gas pedal will travel further than the carb linkage so I believe that slot in the linkage just allows the gas pedal to be pressed further and not damage the carb linkage. When it does the spring stretches and allows the linkage to keep moving which probably allows more adjustment for the transmission kickdown.
(If any of that makes sense - )

Eric

Thanks Eric

Perfect, I removed the bolt and all of a sudden I have full pedal travel, although unfortunately still no kick-down, but you say you've only got 5/8" of thread showing on the kickdown, I think I'm double that. Can you please do me another favour? Measure the threads on the pedal adjustment rod too? I want a place to start, the kickdown issue might be internal, I haven't dropped the pan but I want to start someplace and completely exhaust anything I can do before it goes into a shop!

On a sidenote, I just added 2 washers under the 3 bolts holding the linkage assembly to the intake manifold and I have no clearance issues.

[sidewalkman]

Update

So as most of you have read I have not had a kickdown since I got the car, I know it works because if I use the shift lever it kicks down. But in the course of screwing around with the linkage I've created slip in the transmission and it's a real bear now to get reverse.

So a week ago I had about given up and was taking it to a transmission shop locally here to a guy whose older than me and has experience with the COM. Then I discovered a major power steering leak from one of the lines to the ram. I ended up stripping a couple of threads on the fittings on the line so waited a few days for Larry's to deliver the replacement. While I was down there I could see the linkage on the tranny and noticed that there are 2 levers on what looks like one shaft. So I adjusted everything back to where I started and got it as close to what the manual says and after replacing the line and fixing the leak took it out for a quick test drive and voila, I have kickdown!!. The transmission is going in to the shop still to get everything dialled in properly but it's nice to know it actually works.

[Dan Leavens]

Scott that is great and always good to find to a guy whose older than me and has experience
They are becoming few and hard to find

[sidewalkman]

Scott that is great and always good to find to a guy whose older than me and has experience
They are becoming few and hard to find

Hey Dan

Here's the update, took the car in, was almost impossible to get it to engage reverse, but once you did it was like it remembered and went in flawlessly after that. 2nd gear slipped for about a quarter mile then was fine. The guy test drove it, put it on a hoist and called me. He said it was pretty much perfect already, he 'tweaked' the linkage on the transmission but said he would try it in the morning and report back.

He called in the morning and said it went straight into reverse, didn't notice any slipping and was good to go. I said how much he said no charge since except for the tweak it was already almost perfect.

It's like a new car, no slipping goes right into reverse immediately kick down works. Fantastic. Now onto new shocks and this winter redoing all the bushing etc in the front end.

[DKheld]

Scott - glad to hear you got it all sorted out.

As far as rear shocks - check on the replacements made for land rovers - have them on mine and really like the stiffer ride. Humm - forgot to list the part number in my procedure.
Dave found them so hopefully he will chime in.

http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/'58-'60RearShockReplacement.htm

I've had my replacement Holley 4160 on for about 2 weeks - hate it. Rebuilding my Ford 4100 to re-install.

Hope you enjoy driving your Tbird !!!

Eric

[sidewalkman]

Scott - glad to hear you got it all sorted out.


I've had my replacement Holley 4160 on for about 2 weeks - hate it. Rebuilding my Ford 4100 to re-install.

Hope you enjoy driving your Tbird !!!

Eric

Thanks Eric

I am really loving the T-Bird, building up layers of touch up paint right now but she's a good 5' car now. I ran the numbers off my Holley, then went to Summit to double check because the box it came in is marked Summit and it's a 465 CFM carb, seems under carbed when I put my foot into it, I thought it was a clogged filter or something, it's a 465 CFM carb on a big block motor. I'm thinking of going with the Edelbrock, newer technology that the old 4100 (which I still have) but want to get some feedback on it.

[YellowRose]

Kickdown linkage

Scott you would not go wrong with an Edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb. Many of us are running one, myself included, and are very pleased with it.

[jopizz]

I agree that the Edelbrock 1406 is an excellent carburetor. I prefer it over a Holley or the original 4100.

John

[sidewalkman]

Hi Gang, resurrecting this old thread as I've found out some new information. In the picture in the thread of the linkage mine had a bolt in the linkage that I didn't know what it was for, since then I've learned that when you install an aftermarket carb (mine is an Edelbrock) you need that bolt in there to get the secondaries to open fully, without the bolt you don't get the throttle to open all the way.

[NC Tbird]

Im having a similiar issue in that when I depress the gas pedal, I haveacceleration as normal until about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle which has No increase and the once past 1/2 it jumps into much higher power - not a linear acceleration. I checked my linkage and I can create a linear increase by hand on the carb however I notice that the power increase "flatspot" is caused by the linkage slipping the the large slot for the kick down linkage. (see attched pics).
I see by the pic posted by JOPIZZ that there is a "GUAGE PIN" on the linkage that I do not have. Is this the missing piece to my issue? What function does it serve? Where can I get one if so?

[jopizz]

The gauge pin is inserted to make adjustments. It's not there in normal operation. You can use a 1/4" drill bit. Follow the instructions in the shop manual for adjusting the linkage. I don't think that has anything to do with your flat spot. If it's not a carburetor issue then it's wear in the linkage.

John

[NC Tbird]

The linkage seems functional except for when the large pin / lug that rides in the large slot slips out of it retaining noth in the slot and essentially "disables" the ability to increase the throttle in a linear manner.
What would cause that? Is it worn? Should the pin/lug remain in place and only move on WOT?

[jopizz]

After 60 years it's normal for that slot to become worn and oversized. I've seen people weld and reshape it to tighten it up although I've never tried it. The accelerator rod also doesn't look factory. I don't know if that's causing an issue or not.

John