Horn Problems

[juantejeda]

John, nobody is questioning your mechanical skills. He took the wheel apart to restore it. He can tighten the wheel but when he does, the horn honks continuously. The wheel is so far up that the signals won't cancel.

Juan, the resistance check pertains to picture #5 in the site I posted. Using your meter on the OHM scale; put one prod on the center metal and the other prod on the bottom plate, they should be insulated from each other.

I have to assume all your parts are there including the snap ring. There should be a gap between the snap ring and that bottom plate. When you push the horn ring, the bottom plate touches the snap ring and the horn blows. After straightening this insulation assembly out, then mount the steering wheel.

Tighten the wheel all the way down on the spline.

Let's see a picture of your snap ring with a feeler gauge under it. Send it to simplyconnected@aol.com and I will post it here. - Dave

Two questions.

1. What are you calling the "Snap Ring"?
Is it the clip ring that is under the "C" ring that disengages the horn?

2. How would you measure a gap after the Steering Wheel is in place and is there a certain gauge feeler that needs to be used?

[simplyconnected]

...1. What are you calling the "Snap Ring"?
Is it the clip ring that is under the "C" ring that disengages the horn?

2. How would you measure a gap after the Steering Wheel is in place and is there a certain gauge feeler that needs to be used?

#1. No. I guess the proper term is "retaining ring":
... to me, 'snap ring' is the same thing or if you prefer, "C" ring.
#2. How much space? Just enough so the bottom plate and "C" ring don't touch. It's not very technical, but five thousandths of an inch (.005") will do. More gap is even better.

The object is to make sure your bottom plate is electrically isolated from that "C" ring. You can check this on your bench. As said, if your meter shows zero ohms between the bottom plate and center steel, they are touching and your horn will blow. Check all insulators, including the nylon around the bottom plate screws.

The top spring pulls up on the bottom plate, off of the "C" ring. When you push the chrome Horn Ring, you counter-act the spring and send the bottom plate down on the "C" ring.

If your cork is too thick, spring is too weak, or an insulator is missing the horn will blow. If the "C" ring is missing, your 13318 (Cam - Turn Indicator Turn Off) will short, and the horn will blow. So, the "C" (retaining ring) is VERY important for a few reasons. - Dave

[juantejeda]

Washers

I think your horn insulator (B8S-3672-A) is either installed wrong or it has deteriorated with age. Bird Nest has one for ~$3.00 (search for part #580HBI).

Here is a site to show proper assembly illustrations from our members: Click Here

The fact that your horn sounds is good because it proves your wiring is good back to the relay. Pushing down on the wheel and having the horn sound proves that the brass brush isn't normally making contact, but when you push, the brush touches the shorted horn ring causing the horn to blow.

I need the 4108 Washers, any idea where I can get them? Also, as for the 3672-A, is that the Cork insulator?, if so I replaced that one.

[juantejeda]

Horn problems

#1. No. I guess the proper term is "retaining ring":
... to me, 'snap ring' is the same thing or if you prefer, "C" ring.
#2. How much space? Just enough so the bottom plate and "C" ring don't touch. It's not very technical, but five thousandths of an inch (.005") will do. More gap is even better.

The object is to make sure your bottom plate is electrically isolated from that "C" ring. You can check this on your bench. As said, if your meter shows zero ohms between the bottom plate and center steel, they are touching and your horn will blow. Check all insulators, including the nylon around the bottom plate screws.

The top spring pulls up on the bottom plate, off of the "C" ring. When you push the chrome Horn Ring, you counter-act the spring and send the bottom plate down on the "C" ring.

If your cork is too thick, spring is too weak, or an insulator is missing the horn will blow. If the "C" ring is missing, your 13318 (Cam - Turn Indicator Turn Off) will short, and the horn will blow. So, the "C" (retaining ring) is VERY important for a few reasons. - Dave

OK, so how do you upload pictures to the Thread?

[juantejeda]

Horn issues

OK, took it all apart and put it back together. I had to replace the three washers (double insulated) that hold the back plate to the spring. I found some nylon washers, but they are not double like the originals, but I figured that they should work. Well they apparently didn't, I get a zero reading when I check with my meter. I checked before I took it apart and It seemed to be OK at that point, so I'm guessing that the nylon isn't working properly. The reason I replaced the washers was because one of them broke and it would not stay it place. Any idea where I can get the washers?

[juantejeda]

Turn Signal turn off cam

#1. No. I guess the proper term is "retaining ring":
... to me, 'snap ring' is the same thing or if you prefer, "C" ring.
#2. How much space? Just enough so the bottom plate and "C" ring don't touch. It's not very technical, but five thousandths of an inch (.005") will do. More gap is even better.

The object is to make sure your bottom plate is electrically isolated from that "C" ring. You can check this on your bench. As said, if your meter shows zero ohms between the bottom plate and center steel, they are touching and your horn will blow. Check all insulators, including the nylon around the bottom plate screws.

The top spring pulls up on the bottom plate, off of the "C" ring. When you push the chrome Horn Ring, you counter-act the spring and send the bottom plate down on the "C" ring.

If your cork is too thick, spring is too weak, or an insulator is missing the horn will blow. If the "C" ring is missing, your 13318 (Cam - Turn Indicator Turn Off) will short, and the horn will blow. So, the "C" (retaining ring) is VERY important for a few reasons. - Dave

Should there also be a space between the "C" Ring and the Turn off cam?

[simplyconnected]

The Turn Signal Cam rests on the "C" ring.

[Restifier52]

I had a new turn signal pawl installed because I had to hold the turn signal lever down to keep it on. Now the lever stays down for both left and right turns but only cancels when returning from a right turn. What should I look for? Thanks.
BTW,hoping to go on my first cruise with the Water Wonderland club this Sunday. Fingers crossed for good weather. I still have more sorting out to do with my Newport wipers. I thought I had that done. I guess I should have done more thorough testing before I put the glovebox back. I'm getting pretty good at glovebox removal and reinstallation. They changed from intermittent to constant without the switch being moved, and then kept moving with the switch in the off position. I was dropping the car off when it happened so I don't know what happened the next time the car was started after the ignition was turned off.

[simplyconnected]

I know that the pawl could interfere with the cancel cam upon installation, so it's best to turn the wheel as it descends down the spline.

I'm hoping for good weather, too. We've been blessed with warm but windy (or rainy) days the past week. I still like the temps.

New Port has a great support staff. I have called them in the past with very good results. They told me the switch is a 'purchased part' for them so apparently other companies are using it as well. Give New Port another call. - Dave

[juantejeda]

Horn Issues

I need the 4108 Washers, any idea where I can get them? Also, as for the 3672-A, is that the Cork insulator?, if so I replaced that one.

Also, I have one of the three screws that secure the base Plate, does not tighten down very well, seems to be stripped. Is there a fix or do I need to start looking for a new part?

[KULTULZ]

Maybe check the condition of the steering coupling. It might be somewhat deteriorated and when removing the steering wheel you may have put pressure on it resulting in a out of spec steering shaft position.

[juantejeda]

Horn Issues

OK, want to thank you all for your help. Finally got the problem resolved, at least for now. I still need to replace the three, insulated, washers, but until I find them what I have done will do. I was ab;le to use some Nylon washers that I found at ACE Hardware and they seem to be working OK. Ialso found that one of the three screw down holes that hold everything together seems to be stripped and I can't since down that screw the way I would like, but is seems to be OK, for now.
What I also found was that I had an extra spring that was in place where the Steering Wheel Bolt tightens down the Steering Wheel. I has always been there and I just assumed that it belonged there. I didn't see it on the diagram, so I left it off and when I was done it all seems to be working fine. Even my Turn Signal releases are working!
I would post pictures, but I don't know how.
Again, thanks to everyone that offered ideas, believe me I read them all and gave them some thought.

[simplyconnected]

I'm glad to hear you got your horn and turn signals working again.

...Again, thanks to everyone that offered ideas, believe me I read them all and gave them some thought.

...Let's see a picture of your snap ring with a feeler gauge under it. Send it to simplyconnected@aol.com and I will post it here. - Dave

...I would post pictures, but I don't know how...

Um... ok.

[juantejeda]

Horn Issues Back Again - Help

Hello, again
Thought I had taken care of the problem, but as fate would have it......the other night, about midnight, my horn went of and sounded continuously, scared the heck out of my family as we thought it was a fire alarm or maybe the warning alarm from Diablo Canyon. Finally figured out that it was my Bird waking up for no reason. Couldn't get to my battery, so I had to remove my Steering Wheel to stop the horn.
Guess I need to get the parts to rebuild my Horn assembly in the Steering Wheel.
I will need some parts and so far the parts houses have not responded to my requests.
I need:
1. Three screws that go through the triangular plate.
2. The nonconductive, double washers that are in the triangular plate.
3. The part that the triangular plate screws into.

I can send pictures, if needed. Send me your email address.

[juantejeda]

Horn Issues Back

Hello, again
Thought I had taken care of the problem, but as fate would have it......the other night, about midnight, my horn went of and sounded continuously, scared the heck out of my family as we thought it was a fire alarm or maybe the warning alarm from Diablo Canyon. Finally figured out that it was my Bird waking up for no reason. Couldn't get to my battery, so I had to remove my Steering Wheel to stop the horn.
Guess I need to get the parts to rebuild my Horn assembly in the Steering Wheel.
I will need some parts and so far the parts houses have not responded to my requests.
I need:
1. Three screws that go through the triangular plate.
2. The nonconductive, double washers that are in the triangular plate.
3. The part that the triangular plate screws into.