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Old 07-02-2012, 10:36 AM
kenneybert kenneybert is offline
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Default disc brakes on my 59 tbird needed please

Im sure the answers to my questions are here already but Im getting ready to change the braking on my 59 tbird to front disc brakes ,,I already have a 1977 ford granada with disc brakes that Im hoping to use ,,what do I need to do ,will the brakes from the granada fit right on?,meaning spindle etc.. also can I use the master cyl. off the granada,,I need some expert information from you guys before I start this project ..also pictures with explanations always works for me...thanks..
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Old 07-02-2012, 10:40 AM
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Read this tech article to start and get back with questions;


The above article is MUSTANG specific but most of the tech info is multi-car.
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:45 AM
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YellowRose YellowRose is offline
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Default disc brakes on my 59 tbird needed please

A number of us on here have done the front disc brake/dual MC/2 stage 8" booster under the hood conversion. Some using Granada parts and others going a different route. Here is many pages of stuff to read through before you decide which way to go.

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Last edited by YellowRose : 07-02-2012 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:45 AM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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Your Granada setup will work just fine as long as you bore the bottom ball joint hole to the 'large' Ford size, and also bore the spindle arm to accept the larger tie rod taper. Spindles are made of soft steel which machines easily. and different tool companies like, offer 'Ford' tapered reamers. You need 1-1/2 inches per foot or
~7*. Here's one for a hundred bucks.

When done, 14" Granada wheels will fit nicely. You will need a front end alignment because the new spindles are slightly different. I used these spindles on my '55 Ford with great success. My original 15" wheels fit, too.

I did NOT use the Granada M/C. Instead, I used a new 1" bore Corvette-style master from Old Irish Dave. It fits the MBM two-stage 8" booster perfectly.

You're going to love the performance of disk brakes. - Dave
My latest project:
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
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Old 07-03-2012, 09:16 AM
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DKheld DKheld is offline
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Default Couple of details

Bolting up the spindles is the easy part.......

I didn't have to bore my Granada spindles for the tie rod (maybe I should have) but did on the lower ball joint.Had a machine shop familiar with the work do it for $40. Don't know the specs on the bore.

Do you have a brake booster? Notice the Granada master cyl has only 2 studs holding it on to the booster and the the Tbird has 4.
Couple of options...if no booster just bore some new holes in the firewall to mount the Granada master cyl.....if an under the hood booster - send it off to Power Brake Booster Exchange - let them rebuild it and change the front to accept a 2 stud master cyl. like the Granada......Change the whole thing to a newer style like Dave has from OID. (if you have A/C you have to extend the booster bracket on the new and original style).

You'll need to split the front brake lines from the rear and add a combo or proportioning valve (guess you will be transferring it from the Granada) so be prepared to do some line work. You'll need to move the brake light switch from the master cyl to your new rear line system (extend the wires too) or come up with a switch on the pedal.

The Granada flex lines do not work on the Tbird. There is a solid end on the Granada hose that screws into the caliper that will at least rub on the suspension but most likely be sheared off - ie - brake failure - and they are too short. Plan on buying some 90 deg style flex lines using banjo bolts.

Good luck on the alignment - hope you can find a good shop that will wing it - otherwise they will align it to the Tbird specs which were scary with the Granada spindles - very "twitchy". A little movement of the wheel made the car jerk left or right. As soon as I get my car back on the road (replacing the engine this fall) I plan to take it to a shop and have the alignment specs recorded so I can pass them along. Mine drives great but probably has a slight bit too much negative camber - starting to notice a little inside tire wear @ 12K miles - at least it will be a good starting point.


Converted booster (1964 Lincoln booster face on the Tbird booster)

Rear line from the proportioning valve to the original line splitter on the frame. Front line removed and brake light switch added where the front line used to go. Now front lines are plumbed to the proportioning valve directly.

Proportioning valve location - it ain't pretty but it works. Already had the lines bent for another location and had to move it.

Granada spindles.

I would opt for the drilled and slotted rotors if you can get them (just for a little extra cooling)
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