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  #11  
Old 03-04-2009, 05:12 PM
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Thanks Jon. I guess I will do the same thing.
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  #12  
Old 03-05-2009, 10:16 AM
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I measured the distance between the rad mounting bolts on my car at 22 3/16". The shroud is 23 1/4" wide which means that the mounting brackets have to be moved out to the very edge of the shroud. Since the shroud narrows into points at the outside edges, there is nothing to attach the brackets to at those points. So it looks like I will have to weld pieces of 14 ga. steel along the lower edge of the shroud and then weld the brackets to the new pieces of sheet metal. Is this what others have done?
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  #13  
Old 03-05-2009, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by CA58Bird View Post

Well for some odd reason the car is dripping antifreeze. It had not done this before, and I have since installed a temporary catch can to mesure the amount. Last Sunday the car dumped about a pint out of the overflow on a 20 mile drive.

Where should we start to look for issues?
Is the coolant coming directly out of the overflow tube or is there a pressure leak in the system? Have you pressure checked the system? Have the radiator cap relief pressure checked also. When you fill the cooling system without overflow bottle (closed system), coolant level must remain at approx. 1" below the filler opening to allow for coolant expansion.
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  #14  
Old 03-05-2009, 01:17 PM
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No I didn't do that much fabing to make the metal shroud work on my '60 Bird. It seems like I maybe moved the lower fan shroud "arms" or brackets out approx. an inch on each side & then re-rivoted them. I then used the 2 existing lower radiator mounting bolts to secure the bottom 1/2 of the metal shroud to the lower front crossmember....

It sounds like the shroud you have is slightly smaller in exterior demenisions than mine is. Mine was removed from a 1963 Galaxie with a 390cid & A/C. Maybe our 430cid Birds have a different radiator lower mounting flange than the 352cid Birds? We need someone to measure the width of these lower front crossmember rear radiator mounting holes I'd guess to make this conclusion "stick" though.
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  #15  
Old 03-17-2009, 09:07 AM
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A while after I brought old Betsy home from the shop the other day, I noticed a pool of coolant on the garage floor - it appeared to come from the expansion tank overflow. The TEMP gauge never went above the lower leg of the "M". When I checked the coolant level a few days later, the expansion tank was totaly empty. The original puddle had dried up and there was no additional coolant on the floor. It took more than a quart of coolant to bring the level up into the expansion tank (ie. just into the tank, not to fill the tank). I haven't checked the rad cap but I think it is OK. This is not a new problem but rather one I have had for some time. Any suggestions about how to deal with this issue?
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  #16  
Old 03-17-2009, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Howard Prout View Post

I haven't checked the rad cap but I think it is OK.
Have your cap tested for relief pressure- 14# and insure the cap gasket has no tears and seats fully against the expansion tank filler tube stop.

When coolant cools, it contracts. The filler cap will open enough to allow outside air to enter to equalize the pressure within the system. This injested air will be burped (yes, I have a limited vocabulary) once the system is again at full operation temperature (coolant expansion). This continual cycling may introduce air pockets within the cooling system that are hard for the system to expell. The only true way to prevent this is to install a closed overflow bottle whereas it will accept the overflow and allow coolant makeup without exposing the system to the atmosphere (this is after ascertaining the cooling system has no leaks).

You may also be experiencing shut-down heat soak whereas the coolant cannot rid itself of heat immediately as it is no longer circulating. The relief pressure of the cap allows release of this increased pressure. The overflow bottle will also handle this.

There is an early seventies overflow bottle offered that will appear as somewhat correct in an earlier installation.
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  #17  
Old 03-17-2009, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post
The only true way to prevent this is to install a closed overflow bottle whereas it will accept the overflow and allow coolant makeup without exposing the system to the atmosphere (this is after ascertaining the cooling system has no leaks).

There is an early seventies overflow bottle offered that will appear as somewhat correct in an earlier installation.
Great idea - I don't know if I would ever have thought of that. Thanks
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  #18  
Old 03-18-2009, 11:59 AM
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This is a Universal Coolant Recovery Bottle-



Source- http://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bi...01&vtime=38933

Measurements- 7.5" X 4.2" X 8.2"

You can cruise the salvage yards to see if you can find one that fits more nicely, but this should prevent the discharge. It shouldn't detract from the engine compartment appearance too badly.
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  #19  
Old 03-18-2009, 12:15 PM
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Thanks for the info. By my calculations, that bottle holds just over one US gallon - which should be more than enough. I see that JC Whitney also has a couple of universal coolant overflow bottles. I'm going to take my battery out and measure the space I have below it and then visit a salvage yard to see if I can find anything that will fit. If so, I could tuck it away into an innocuous space.
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Last edited by Howard Prout : 03-18-2009 at 12:18 PM. Reason: correction
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  #20  
Old 03-18-2009, 12:47 PM
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Howard,

The one shown is 11-12 bucks on the internet. Check AMAZON.
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