Loading up / stalling

[1965TbirdMan]

Took the old girl for a spin today and didn't make it far. Immediately when putting it in drive or reverse the engine would stall or sound very sick. Then when trying to drive I made it about two hundred feet and it died. Almost seemed like it loaded up because I wasn't able to turn it over. The charge gauge was jumping I have replaced the alternator and the regulator I may have the wires crossed on the alternator plan on checking that tomorrow. Also it was running right around 195-200 I'm just confused as to what might really be the cause here and was wondering if anyone has suggestions for fixing these two issue.

[simplyconnected]

Work on one problem at a time. For now put your battery on a charger and DISCONNECT your alt wires so the voltage remains high.

Why does your engine sound sick? Do not try to drive it until you get the engine timing and spark plug wires correct. Adjust your carb so it idles correctly.

Give us some background on the engine. What has been done? How new are the plugs and points?

When you get the engine running right, then go to the alt. (How can you wire the alt wrong?) Be careful, the alt is solid state and it doesn't take much to ruin it. - Dave

[jopizz]

My first guess would be a misadjusted choke or possibly your needle valve is stuck and it's flooding out. Look down the bowl and see if you can see gas pouring out. Sometimes tapping on the top of the carburetor will fix it.

John

[1965TbirdMan]

Engine is brand new remanufactured 390 with a new Holley 4 barrel. Points are new and so are wires. The distributor isn't new but was in good shape. I doesn't sound sick when it is idel it is just when putting it under load it seems to die off. I can adjust the idel higher and try to curb the issue when I drop it in gear. It does the same when I push in the brakes when in park it pulls a lot of the idel speed out. I realize that the power brakes come off the engine but by it pulling so much of the juice from then engine when I place it in gear the motor doesn't have the juice to move. I will double check the carb and timing and see what I can find.

[Dan Leavens]

There are more talented mechanics on this Site than I but have you checked the condition of your fuel filter? I mentioned this as it will start but when put in gear it stalls My wife's 58 had similar issues and turned out a new fuel filter $6.98 solved the problem and runs like a charm.

Regards,

[1965TbirdMan]

I will put a new one on it ran better today but it just does out when driving after a bit again leading me to that its loading up become to hot the temp gauge is around the t and e and the temp gun said its 190 to 200 before i take off so not sure maybe a new thermostat, clutch fan, have the radiator flushed. But before all that I will have to double check the timing

[scumdog]

But before all that I will have to double check the timing

I would check that quick-smart - possibly you have insufficient advance - and you can't always depend on the timing mark being correct..

[1965TbirdMan]

Well I have checked all grounds, replaced ignition coil, and made sure the alternator is hitched up right. All good there now I'm adjusting the timing and it appears based on timing marks that's off. However as I try to adjust it I can only rotate so ar as it hits he cooler reservoir and can no longer turn it so I decided to mark it where the rotor cap is suppose to be and then moved as far right ( if looking at the engine from the front ) as I could before the advance would hit the air conditioner. However I am still having and issue with making sure it aligns. I adjust wondering what is the trick to the timing on this engine? I've been fighting it why to long and don't believe even if. I take it to a ford garage they will do much better with out trying to tell me something else is wrong with it. As for what is wrong it seems to idle ok a little timing tick / knock but nothing major till i push the gas down and it backfires through the carb? Suggestions?

[simplyconnected]

...However as I try to adjust it I can only rotate so ar as it hits he cooler reservoir and can no longer turn it...

Let's check to see if the distributor was put back correctly.

Rotate your crankshaft so the timing marks are at TDC. Now take the distributor cap off and look at the rotor. Is it facing directly at #1 or #6 spark plug towers?

If the rotor is between spark plug wire towers, you need to lift the distributor out, turn it about 15* to the next tooth, in the direction it should go, and set it back in the hole.

Remember, the oil pump driveshaft is at the bottom and it is a hex. If the distributor doesn't drop down all the way, rotate the crank by hand slowly as you keep a little hand pressure pushing down on the distributor. After about 1/3 turn, the distributor will drop.

Now, do it over. Set your timing marks at TDC and look at the rotor... If it points directly at #1 or #6, you're there.

The correct way is to make sure #1 is on TDC on its power stroke and make the distributor point towards #1 tower. I didn't get this technical because your distributor is only off by one tooth (hopefully). - Dave

[1965TbirdMan]

Back to it with the timing got the car up to my new place dropped it off the trailer it ran into the garage and now it will crank but no start. I checked the ignition primary coil and it has good spark. Also has new ignition coil. The plugs could be bad as it seems like it isn't getting spark and when it does half start it dies or backfires. I will rotate it to the tdc mark this weekend and check for it to be at the 1 or 6 tower but if it isn't what was should I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise, remember you can only turn it so far before it hits the support arm for the coolant resivour I believe. Any thoughts on this also in related I believe I have a front seal leak on my transmission, being its a cruiseomatic what are the chances anyone in a local shop could rebuild it?

[simplyconnected]

...I adjust wondering what is the trick to the timing on this engine? I've been fighting it...

There are no tricks to your engine. It is an 'old school' build and timing is done much the same as all other Ford engines.

I'm not convinced your engine was assembled properly. In specific, the cam timing then the distributor timing needs to be checked. These tests cost nothing but they must be done carefully.

When timing is right, the distributor has plenty of room to rotate without interference. I hope you find time to verify by doing these tests. - Dave

[jopizz]

I believe I have a front seal leak on my transmission, being its a cruiseomatic what are the chances anyone in a local shop could rebuild it?

If you have a leak from the front you most likely need a new front seal, front pump bushing and front pump o-ring. Any shop that has been in business for awhile should be able to do it for about $300-400. I would also have them replace the shifter shaft seals as well. If it shifts fine I wouldn't do a complete rebuild. That will cost you upwards of $1500.

John

[1965TbirdMan]

Well I took your advice cranked the engine to tdc and checked to see if the rotor was at the 1 or 6 tower. It was pointing t the number six I then changed the plugs and double checked that the wires weren't crossed. The 6 and 7 were I switched them and tried to start it and I sputter and backfire.

I guess it is off to the garage to have them see if they can fix it. It's a new reman motor with barely any miles on it so to assume it was assembled wrong would kind of bother me. I assume to timing chain could of jumped. It came off the trailer alittle crooked and dropped a half foot. Maybe that jarred something loose I am kind of at wits ends because it was running and now it is just a 2 and half ton garage ornament

[simplyconnected]

Well I took your advice cranked the engine to tdc and checked to see if the rotor was at the 1 or 6 tower. It was pointing t the number six I then changed the plugs and double checked that the wires weren't crossed. The 6 and 7 were I switched them and tried to start it and I sputter and backfire.

I guess it is off to the garage to have them see if they can fix it. It's a new reman motor with barely any miles on it so to assume it was assembled wrong would kind of bother me. I assume to timing chain could of jumped. It came off the trailer alittle crooked and dropped a half foot. Maybe that jarred something loose I am kind of at wits ends because it was running and now it is just a 2 and half ton garage ornament

So, that's it? New remanufactured motors have new timing chain sets. They do not jump time.

I assume nothing. People insert opinions but physical proof speaks for itself. Is it possible that the timing chain was set wrong? I've seen it many times and I did it myself once, when I was 15. Since then, I learned to check timing before covering up the gears.

Do not let emotions get in the way but be tenacious. You can do a few simple, free and easy steps to prove your timing. It needs to be correct. Once set correctly, it will remain that way for 100,000 miles. Your car could jump off a cliff and the timing will be the same. Only old and very worn out timing sets jump teeth.

If you want, I will go through the steps with you. If not, take the car in and pay someone to do it. - Dave

[1965TbirdMan]

I would appreciate the help I will start removing the components. I don't have the capability at my current residence to remove the engine. However I don't know if it is necessary to remove it as long as I can reach down in there after the radiator and all that jazz is removed.