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  #11  
Old 02-28-2017, 12:52 PM
Joe Johnston Joe Johnston is offline
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Absolutely agree and is why I thought the bolt through the roof system inadequate. A lot of structural engineering goes on to safely stop a body nearly instantly in a collision, holding it back and not forcing it down. Properly installed and worn, the seat/shoulder belts work. I always thought the power rail set up Ford had worked well, took a bit to get used to though for me.

When working I had access to a lot of engineering data (nearly anything I would ask for) and the issue of spinal compression was a major concern. Granted the magnitude of the liability is tremendous for a manufacturer and would not extend to the modification of an old car, but the info was available.

The simple seat and shoulder belts do work.

For the record I have not added shoulder belts to either of my Thunderbirds.
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  #12  
Old 02-28-2017, 08:31 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirBB View Post
I'm going to install front Shoulder Seat belts in a 1960 Hard Top, has anyone done this and have any information how it was done.
Here's how I did my '64. Yours may be similar.

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  #13  
Old 03-01-2017, 09:50 AM
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Nice job! Shows it can be done well and also look good.
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  #14  
Old 03-02-2017, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
Here's how I did my '64. Yours may be similar.

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...46&postcount=9
That would work, I would imagine there is some engineering happening behind the C pillar but effective.
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  #15  
Old 03-02-2017, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
That would work, I would imagine there is some engineering happening behind the C pillar but effective.
The only engineering is to come up with something equivalent to the factory connection. My body man, who did the welding for me where I told him to place it, was concerned that this location wasn't strong enough. But the factory metal here is the same gauge as where the floor points are, and his length of weld was much more than the factory.
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  #16  
Old 03-02-2017, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
The only engineering is to come up with something equivalent to the factory connection. My body man, who did the welding for me where I told him to place it, was concerned that this location wasn't strong enough. But the factory metal here is the same gauge as where the floor points are, and his length of weld was much more than the factory.
After the welding I imagine some repainting was in order?
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  #17  
Old 03-02-2017, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
...But the factory metal here is the same gauge as where the floor points are, and his length of weld was much more than the factory.
That's why we always back up the location with heavier steel.

In the case of a floor pan, it's a heavy square, usually 1/4" thick with an extruded 1/2" hole (or a 1/2" Nylok nut).

In the case of a door pillar or roof rail, it's also a heavy strip of steel.

Both additions of steel are either MIG welded, projection welded or button welded in place. The idea is to spread the tension over a large area.
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  #18  
Old 03-02-2017, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
After the welding I imagine some repainting was in order?
I did this work before paint, but the weld area is not on exterior metal. A careful welder should have no problem keeping the surrounding area cool enough not to damage paint.
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  #19  
Old 03-02-2017, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
That's why we always back up the location with heavier steel.

In the case of a floor pan, it's a heavy square, usually 1/4" thick with an extruded 1/2" hole (or a 1/2" Nylok nut).

In the case of a door pillar or roof rail, it's also a heavy strip of steel.

Both additions of steel are either MIG welded, projection welded or button welded in place. The idea is to spread the tension over a large area.
As I recall the factory reinforced area is oblong, no sharp edges that would tend to tear the substrate.
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  #20  
Old 03-06-2017, 12:40 PM
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Default Front Shoulder Seat Belt

I am in contact with David, Jeremy, and Darryl Heiner in Australia. Darryl did the shoulder harness seat belt installation on Jerermy's '60 430MEL Black Raven that used to belong to Bart Como! He still has it. I am working on putting together a Tech Tip on how to install retractable rear seat belts like David did in his '58 AND the Shoulder Harness set up that Darryl does for the guys Down Under. Unfortunately, when Darryl changed companies, he lost his pix. He has given me some additional information though. I am trying to piece together a step-by-step Tech Tip to help those who want to install front seat Shoulder Harnesses in their Squarebirds.

David has suggested this. If someone has a Squarebird with the headliner removed, please take some photos of the C section where the harness would go. We need to see what that section looks like because that is where the top of Shoulder Harness attaches to. We think that area is built up, but, unfortunately, neither Dave, Jeremy or Darryl have pix of that area. BUT I DO! One Pic and I will post it below. In the pic below you will see, from Davids '58, where that top of the Shoulder Harness attaches to the C Column. When Darrly does these installs, (and he has done many of them Down Under) with the headliner out, he welds in a plate in that area to strengthen the anchoring of that harness. When the interior is intact, and to prevent fire, he lifts up the headliner in that area and uses self tapping screws in the mounting plate on each side, then covers it up with the headline. Here also is a picture of the metal plates he uses and I will give you the dimensions in the Tech Tip.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DavidMooreShoulderHarnessMounting-4.jpg (46.7 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg DavidMooreShouderHarnessMountingPlates-1.jpg (27.7 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg DriverSideRoofColumn.jpg (60.9 KB, 33 views)
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Last edited by YellowRose : 03-07-2017 at 12:43 PM.
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