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  #1  
Old 05-04-2018, 02:15 AM
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Default COM front band adjustment

I'm looking at adjusting the front bands, I've got a bit of slippage and everything checks out so I'll try it. BUT the manual is pretty confusing, it says adjust until the adjustment screw over runs the socket....Wt*???

Is there an easier more definitive explanation someplace, like torque to X then back off 1 full turn or something, like the rear, easy explanation, torque to 10 then 1.5 full turns back!?
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  #2  
Old 05-04-2018, 10:59 AM
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Later manuals are more specific. Tighten the adjusting screw to 10 in-lbs torque and then back off the screw exactly one full turn.

John
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  #3  
Old 05-04-2018, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
Later manuals are more specific. Tighten the adjusting screw to 10 in-lbs torque and then back off the screw exactly one full turn.

John
Thanks John, that's definitely easier to figure out!
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  #4  
Old 05-08-2018, 12:06 PM
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There was a special tool available which was overrunning when the right torque was applied and no torque wrench was needed. In case this tool was not available, a torque wrench could be used with the values John supplied.
My manual specifies both ways.
If the adjustment doesn´t cure the slipping, its maybe time to check the line pressure. I have the same problem and my line pressure is too low. I have just all the parts in for an overhaul, now finding the time to do the job.
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Old 05-08-2018, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frango100 View Post
There was a special tool available which was overrunning when the right torque was applied and no torque wrench was needed. In case this tool was not available, a torque wrench could be used with the values John supplied.
My manual specifies both ways.
If the adjustment doesn´t cure the slipping, its maybe time to check the line pressure. I have the same problem and my line pressure is too low. I have just all the parts in for an overhaul, now finding the time to do the job.
I know the feeling. I've got a huge exhaust leak on the passenger side manifold. Had to pull the heads then realized not only was there 3 gaskets wedged in each side but the drivers side manifold is off a 61, wondered why there was a donut gasket in there. which leaked because the flange plate on the pipe is flat.... these cars definitely were not built to work on easily. I've got to drop the tranny pan any way so....
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  #6  
Old 05-08-2018, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
.... these cars definitely were not built to work on easily...
They're not too bad if you have the right parts.

Check and see if you have a heat riser. It normally installs on the passenger (RH) exhaust manifold. The manifold end of the heat riser is flat by design.

If the riser is missing, there will be a 2" difference in height and a mismatch. I don't use heat riser valves but I can't just remove it. (I also block off the exhaust running through the intake manifold with shim stock.)

There is a 'dummy' spacer to take the place of a heat riser that parts houses sell or (what I do is) cut the guts out of the original with a torch. I leave the outside looking 'stock'. The inside is smooth and unobtrusive. - Dave
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Old 05-08-2018, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
They're not too bad if you have the right parts.

Check and see if you have a heat riser. It normally installs on the passenger (RH) exhaust manifold. The manifold end of the heat riser is flat by design.

If the riser is missing, there will be a 2" difference in height and a mismatch. I don't use heat riser valves but I can't just remove it. (I also block off the exhaust running through the intake manifold with shim stock.)

There is a 'dummy' spacer to take the place of a heat riser that parts houses sell or (what I do is) cut the guts out of the original with a torch. I leave the outside looking 'stock'. The inside is smooth and unobtrusive. - Dave
Heat riser is there, I'm going to gut it and put it back, the gaskets I got cover the hole on the intake side. I painted the intake manifold so I don't want the paint burning off again, also mine was stuck closed for a couple of months till I noticed and wired it open.

Dave, have you installed a shroud on the rad? Did you use one off the later 62-64 Birds?
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  #8  
Old 05-08-2018, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
...Dave, have you installed a shroud on the rad? Did you use one off the later 62-64 Birds?
No. The electric fans usually come with a shroud.

I mounted my fan on the front of the radiator for a few good reasons:
  • Cooler air is more dense which means the fan blades 'bite' into the air better.
  • Mounting the fan on the 'cool' side means the fan motor also runs cooler.
  • 'Pushing' cooler air through the radiator cores is much more efficient than 'pulling' hot air.
  • Once the mechanical fan & water pump spacer are removed, there is plenty of room to pull the radiator back toward the engine a couple inches (to give the electric cooling fan even more room).
  • I don't have to worry about little fingers getting hit by the fan blades.
  • The fan doesn't turn on until the radiator comes up to heat. This alone saves HP and gas.

I can idle all day long as the electric fan cycles on/off. - Dave
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Old 05-10-2018, 11:31 AM
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How were you able to move the radiator back with the way it mounts at the bottom? Spacers and longer bolts?


Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
I mounted my fan on the front of the radiator for a few good reasons:
  • Cooler air is more dense which means the fan blades 'bite' into the air better.
  • Mounting the fan on the 'cool' side means the fan motor also runs cooler.
  • 'Pushing' cooler air through the radiator cores is much more efficient than 'pulling' hot air.
  • Once the mechanical fan & water pump spacer are removed, there is plenty of room to pull the radiator back toward the engine a couple inches (to give the electric cooling fan even more room).
  • I don't have to worry about little fingers getting hit by the fan blades.
  • The fan doesn't turn on until the radiator comes up to heat. This alone saves HP and gas.

I can idle all day long as the electric fan cycles on/off. - Dave
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Last edited by simplyconnected : 05-10-2018 at 12:13 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-10-2018, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthSRT10 View Post
How were you able to move the radiator back with the way it mounts at the bottom? Spacers and longer bolts?
Exactly. I pulled the radiator back toward the engine about 1-1/4" which gave me plenty of room on the front side of the radiator.

For spacers, I used 3/8" water pipe, cut with my angle grinder. It worked out nicely.

Ray Clark sent an electric fan and alternator he got from one of his bone yards down there in San Antonio. For some reason, he didn't want to use them so I bought the pair. I think he said it was from a Crown Vic but I'm not sure.

When the bone yard pulls an electrical item, they leave the plugs and simply cut the wires. That makes it convenient for me to splice my own wires (and I don't need to buy plugs). - Dave
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