Removing Radiator

[opaque]

Hey guys, I still have yet to get my dirty hands on a workshop manual, and I'm about to embark on removing the radiator to get it recored. Would anyone be able to loosely explain the steps in doing this, it's fairly straight forward I just don't want to overlook anything.

Also which is the best manual to hunt for? I really, really need one!

Cheers, VInny

[tbird430]

It's pretty straight forward (and messy).

I would recommend placing a sheet of cardboard between the fan blade & the raditor core...

-Jon in TX.

[simplyconnected]

...I'm about to embark on removing the radiator to get it recored...

Vinny, I commend you for keeping your copper radiator. Most restorers buy the aluminum type. Copper transfers heat MUCH better than aluminum, and it far easier to solder.

Now... to get you in touch with a manual...

Jon's suggestion about using cardboard for a cushion is brilliant. I always keep cardboard in the garage, and it could have saved me a few skinned knuckles (if I only thought of using it to remove the fan). - Dave

[Astrowing]

The only difficulty I found in removing the radiator is that the center bottom bolt on the radiator is above the crossmember scrape plate. It had some difficult nuts on the back that wanted to turn. I've had mine in and out a couple of times and it is a 10 minute job now. After it's drained of course and hoses removed. I've had the hood off both times also.

[Howard Prout]

I've taken the rad out of my car several times and never took the hood off. As said earlier, put a piece of cardboard between the rad and the fan. Remove the two bolts at the bottom of the rad. Remove the filler piece between the rad and the cowl. Remove the rad hoses and the tranny hoses. Now lift the rad straight up. It's out!

[Astrowing]

I concur. You don't have to remove the hood, but it sure does make working on anything at the front of the engine much easier. You do have to get some help because the hood is heavy.

[60 T-Bird]

My whole system was so crudy, I slightly deformed the necks on the rad trying to remove the hoses. I finally cut them and surgically removed them on the bench. I did not know they were copper. I have not had mine rotted yet.

[JohnG]

Good point on the old hoses! Sacrifice them so as to reduce the chance of damaging the radiator necks working them off. I am embarrassed to admit having damaged a couple of radiators in my time trying to wrestle either the hose or heater hose off, realizing afterward how short sighted I was being.

[simplyconnected]

Dow Chemical makes silicon grease (grease, not sealer or RTV). It never hardens, is waterproof, impervious to heat and cold, and it makes a perfect hose lube. This stuff is rather thick, and it sticks to everything.

I use silicone grease on all my rubber hoses and fittings. If the rubber surface starts out dry, silicone grease will keep water away and preserve the rubber. Years later, hoses twist off with ease. - Dave

[tbird430]

Oh, I also use a spare 2' rubber 3/8 fuel line over the 2 ends of the steel trans cooler lines (once removed). This keeps some of the mess under control until re-assembly.