I took my bird out for a ride after having the manifold gaskets replaced. I sounds so solid and powerful. I got back to the garage and heard a hisss I thought there was a snake under the hood. I looked closely and the expansion tank was whisling like a tea pot. I have had my tank chromed and have had problems with it ever since. I would think that after chroming a part I would not have any problems out of it. My question is should I remove it and fix it again or just buy another and not chrome it?
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My expansion tank is chromed as well and I can't remember if I have had it fixed since then. Take the tank to your favorite rad shop and see if they can fix it. My gut reaction is that they have to get down to the brass to fix the leak. I assume it is leaking at the seam so any repair will be noticable.sigpic "Old Betsy" - my '59 convertible J9YJ116209 Thunderbird Registry #33341 -
the chroming process includes stripping the tank and it is likely some of the solder from the joints got compromised.
These tanks are generally unreliable despite the low pressure they live under.
Aside from getting it repaired, you have two options: (1) get a tank from a 61-62 TBird which is supposed to be an improvement (2) get a reproduction tank- again supposed to be an improvement. (1) is alot cheaper.
In any case I would not get it chromed...
John1958 Hardtop
#8452 TBird Registry
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Rodney both suggestions are very sound. Here is my two (2) cents worth. These expansion tanks are always in need of repair depending on the usage and how hot your area is. I would get it blasted down to the quick, then get the seams repaired properly and paint it base black. Although looks great chromed having it period correct ( black ) is cheaper Living in Calgary ( 4200 feet above sea level ) I have repaired the 58HT twice and the 60HT onceDano Calgary,Alberta Canada
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Rodney both suggestions are very sound. Here is my two (2) cents worth. These expansion tanks are always in need of repair depending on the usage and how hot your area is. I would get it blasted down to the quick, then get the seams repaired properly and paint it base black. Although looks great chromed having it period correct ( black ) is cheaper Living in Calgary ( 4200 feet above sea level ) I have repaired the 58HT twice and the 60HT once
Good call Dan, practicality over appearance is the way to go here. My '62's tank has had its seams repaired, and I went with the black finish. I too was wary of what the dipping/plating process would do to the seams.
Appearance wise, in my opinion the chrome would also make the tank a bit of a beacon sitting up high in the mioddle of the engine bay, whereas black would cause it to be less obvious, letting the viewer's eye drift towards a nice chrome air cleaner and valve covers...Comment
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Tank
That is some good sound advice, I never knew or paid attention to the fact that stripping the tank was nessasary for chroming. I think I will buy a new repo tank. My tank has been repaired 4 times over the years. Twice when the thing was black. Your right, the system is low pressure so why do I ned repair so often, the tank is just weak.Comment
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Hi, for what it's worth when you replace or fix your x tank make sure your thermostat is placed the right way. When I had my waterpump changed I had the thermo changed as well but discovered that it was placed backwards. If you like the chrome look you can always spray it a nice metalic silver. Chris...BIRD 60Comment
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A guy from Paul's Chrome did a segment on My Classic Car last year. The process goes something like: the object is sandblasted clean and washed clean. Not sure of what it is washed with. Then copper plated, then nickel plated and finally a thin layer of chrome.
I sandblasted mine when I first got the TBird just for painting it, only to discover the seams then leaked. Several radiator people told me it was a strange object for soldering and they were not confident of the results. After about a year I usually see some seeping around the horizontal solder seam.
While I have heard that the 61-3's are better, it would be nice to hear from somebody with one that has not leaked for 5-10 years...
Speaking of potential leaks, that little bitty piece of hose between the intake manifold and the water pump is a real engineering gem, ain't it??
Tanks for listening
john1958 Hardtop
#8452 TBird Registry
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the intake's hard enough to lower into position without trying to wiggle a silly little hose into place at the same time.
So, I ended up hugely frustrated trying to get the hose onto one fitting, then squish it up, bend it and generally force it onto the other.
definately a system designed by a committeeComment
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had to have been an afterthought... they got all done with the whole motor and somebody said "****! We forgot to connect the intake manifold to the water pump!". Someone else spotted some scrap hose on the floor and said "here...stick this in it. We're late for lunch."1958 Hardtop
#8452 TBird Registry
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wow!!
Is it the original style ? (smooth) or a later, ribbed one?
What pressure cap do you have on it?? I think 13 is stock.
john1958 Hardtop
#8452 TBird Registry
http://tbird.info/registry/DataSheet...r~equals~8452)
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I assume it is original style - smooth, no ribs - just a center seam. I run with a 14-15 psi cap. You can see it in a picture in the last entry I posted under the 430MEL section, "Puking Anitfreeze" thread.sigpic "Old Betsy" - my '59 convertible J9YJ116209 Thunderbird Registry #33341Comment
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For those in not-so-hot places you could easily get by with an 8lb cap ( or lower) if you can find one.
13lb may raise the boiling point of your coolant but it sure stresses your radiator , expansion tank and all hoses.A Thunderbirder from the Land of the Long White Cloud.Comment
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