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  #11  
Old 07-28-2018, 07:37 PM
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I don't know of a modern wheel sold today that isn't 'disc brake' compatible. Most of the speed shops offer hundreds of 14" rims. When looking for steel wheels the choices are fewer.

If you're still not sure, ASK the seller. Look for a Ford Ranger wheel or one from a Lincoln Versailes, Granada, Monarch, Mustang, LTD, or any 14"x6" (5-on-4-1/2" centers) that came from a vehicle with disc brakes. Then ,your OEM hubcaps will fit. - Dave
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  #12  
Old 07-30-2018, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
I'm pretty sure that most people just leave the underdash mechanism in place.

John
I took it out, as it makes doing anything on the brake pedal or the booster rod, 1000 times easier.
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  #13  
Old 09-17-2018, 10:18 AM
Geoffreybusuttilmalta Geoffreybusuttilmalta is offline
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Hi there my friend. I went through what you wrote to me regarding the abs brake booster i ordered for my 59 t bird. First of all thanks.

I noticed my original master cylinder got only one outlet for the brake line. While this got 2 .. which are marked R and F .. is there somethong i need to alter or plug ? I also recieved a brake light switch .with a fitting containing 2 outlets.
I noticed you seem to know very well the brake system. Today afer work i am going to remove the old unit from the brake pedal. If there are some things which i should know regarding the installation even the modt obvious would you be so kind to tell me please .

Regards

Geoffrey
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  #14  
Old 09-17-2018, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
I'm pretty sure that most people just leave the underdash mechanism in place.

John
I took it out, just to have easier access to brake pedal, as I moved my brake light switch inside (vs pressure switch). I did have to do light mods to bolt that holds both parts of brake pedal "together".

See pedal on right side, that is the convoluted setup needed to actuate an internal booster.

http://luxjo.supermotors.net/59%20T-...201_160008.jpg

Oops, didn't realize I already replied...............
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  #15  
Old 09-17-2018, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffreybusuttilmalta View Post
I noticed my original master cylinder got only one outlet for the brake line. While this got 2 .. which are marked R and F .. is there somethong i need to alter or plug ? I
I assume you are staying with the drum brake setup. Did you order the drum/drum master cylinder instead of the disc/drum master cylinder. You need to disconnect the rear brake line from the connecting block and extend it up to the port on the master cylinder marked "R" (rear). The original line goes to the port marked "F" (front). You will need to block the open port on the connecting block and plumb your brake line switch into the brake lines somewhere using an adapter. You can also convert to an electric switch on the brake pedal.

John
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  #16  
Old 09-17-2018, 01:54 PM
Geoffreybusuttilmalta Geoffreybusuttilmalta is offline
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Yepp i gonna keep the drum drum setup and i assume they sent me the right master cylinder too .. still they didnt ask me bout that ..

Seems i understood how the setup will go will keep updated bout the progress ..

Cool guys cheerz
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  #17  
Old 09-17-2018, 03:24 PM
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It probably came with a disc/drum master cylinder since most people order it because they are doing the front disc conversion. A drum/drum master cylinder will have both reservoirs the same size. A disc/drum master cylinder will have a larger reservoir for the front brakes. I'm not sure what will happen if you use a disc/drum master cylinder with all drums. Maybe someone else can chime in.

John
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