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Re-curved Distibutor acting strange

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  • simplyconnected
    Administrator
    • May 26 2009
    • 8787

    #46
    Originally posted by davidmij
    ...Being that my timing light is right at 12-13 degrees shouldn't my all in be at 43 or 44 degrees? (31 plus 12-13) That would be scarey...
    Huh???
    Which reluctor arm did you use? I will assume you used L13. This is covered in my site.
    Because the distributor is half the crank, 13 X 2 = 26 degrees. Now, you just added 12 degrees of initial timing, so 12 + 26 = 38 degrees!

    Isn't that what we were shooting for all along? Where are all your pictures? I'd rather see what's going on, to better explain it to you.

    Now that you are done with 'all in' timing, the only adjustment you need is, 'how soon does it get there'. That's what the springs do.

    Vacuum advance is another story. It only comes in when your foot is light on the gas pedal, NOT when you take off at a light, not when you pass a truck, climb mountains, etc. Think about it. when your foot opens the carb, vacuum drops and so does the vacuum advance. When you're 'at speed' you get the most vacuum. So, now we have the centrifugal weights sensing engine speed AND a vacuum advance sensing acceleration.

    We talked about starting. How much vacuum does your engine have then? NONE. At the same time, the weights are retracted, and that's good because we don't need pistons fighting the starter motor with too much advance. As soon as it starts, you get full vacuum and vacuum advance. As the engine speed slowly increases, the weights further advance the reluctor arm and rotor. At wide open throttle, the vacuum advance backs off. - Dave
    Member, Sons of the American Revolution

    CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

    "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
    --Lee Iacocca

    From: Royal Oak, Michigan

    Comment

    • davidmij
      Super-Experienced
      • Jan 17 2011
      • 660

      #47
      Whoops, sorry Dave. I added the 18 and 13 to get 31 - that's totally wrong. I forgot it's 2 times the number of the side you are using. In my case the 13. So I have 26 plus my advance of 12-13 equals 38-39.

      I only took two pictures for re-assembly. I didn't get one after the two plates were out so I don't have one of the reluctor arm. I never took out the reluctor arm itself, I cleaned it by holding it upside down and squirting a quick shot of brake cleaner. Then I blew it all out with the air hose.

      I stretched the heavy spring by pushing a little screwdriver in between the coils and turning it. Like I said, I don't know if I really did anything at all, but I wanted to go easy cuz I knew I couldn't un-stretch it. I'll work with that some more soon, probably this weekend when I can utilize a helper for tach reading.

      Thanks for the last two paragraphs, I think I understand better now how the vacuum works. With the throttle steady/constant at any speed the carb is only open so far. The engine is trying to draw more air and thus creating a vacuum. When you push the gas pedal it opens the throttle blades and allows more air, thus the vacuum drops. Am I correct?

      thx, Dave J.

      Comment

      • davidmij
        Super-Experienced
        • Jan 17 2011
        • 660

        #48
        Found this really good timing article that helped me with vacuum advance.


        Thought I would share.

        Dave J

        Comment

        • simplyconnected
          Administrator
          • May 26 2009
          • 8787

          #49
          Yep, it kinda goes along with my numbers.
          Did you notice they don't mind going farther than 38 degrees?
          I still get irate just thinking of your distributor guy who did nothing but feed you BS.
          Yes, wide open throttle (WOT) produces zero vacuum. Hot cams do the same. - Dave
          Member, Sons of the American Revolution

          CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

          "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
          --Lee Iacocca

          From: Royal Oak, Michigan

          Comment

          • davidmij
            Super-Experienced
            • Jan 17 2011
            • 660

            #50
            Yeah, it kind of bugs me too, although I'm not totally convinced he was dishonest about the curve yet. Once I find out tomorrow what my all in RPM's are at then I'll know. And I WILL give him a call and a chance to explain what he did.

            He told me he hooked it up and it looked fine so he checked the vacuum advance and it was a ways off. I should have asked what it was "all in at". Because he didn't actually have to change any springs or adjust it he just charged me $20 instead of the usual $75. However I didn't go to him because I wanted to save money, I went to him because I wanted it run the best it is capable of.

            Dave J

            Comment

            • davidmij
              Super-Experienced
              • Jan 17 2011
              • 660

              #51
              OK, just finished checking the "all in" rpm's with the help of my father-in-law.
              All in is 38 degrees.
              The rpm's at "all in" were 3500.
              At 3000 rpm it was at ~36, and at 2500 it was at 34 degrees.

              So I'm going to get one those springs kits from NAPA and work it more toward 2500 rpm for all in. Might be next weekend before I can get to that.

              dave J

              Comment

              • davidmij
                Super-Experienced
                • Jan 17 2011
                • 660

                #52
                Installed the new (and correct) Pertronix coil, Autolite 45 plugs, new vacuum advance canister, and Accel plug wires. Re-tuned and timed everything over and over to the point where it's running and staring real nice. Even stretched the large timing curve spring a little more as you can sort of see in this picture. Have you ever seen badging like this?

                The motor seems to have a slight vibration. I installed a new fan clutch, do you think this could cause a noticeable vibration? It even feel like it vibrates while idling.

                thx!
                Attached Files

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