Eric's 1960 T-Bird

[Eric S]

Thank you.
I removed the upper arms to change the bushings.
But the manual say I need a special tool to remove the bushings with the shaft in place.
I can figure out how it works but can we buy this tool or do any of you have a homemade tool to show so we can make it from tubes here?

As for the ball joints, from what you can see on my pictures, do I need to replace them?
I did not planned to do it but I fear I might be forced to do it...

As for the lower arms, the manual say to remove the bolts and then remove the arm.
No way. The arm is still locked in place by metal parts (threaded for the bolts) that go through the bushings.
I tried to hammer them out but they seem to be welded on the frame.
Any suggestion?

Also I would appreciate if anyone could share thoughts on questions 1. 2. 3. 4. below

[Eric S]

Sorry to insist folks but I need to work on my car over the week-end and I am stuck with several issues so any help would be more than welcomed...

[simplyconnected]

Eric, here are illustrations of your PS and your front suspension.

NONE of the suspension parts are welded. Remove the two nuts and keep track of the shims on each side of the Upper Control arm's pivot shaft. Also keep track of the body shims (3054) as shown in the illustration. The shims shown are round but some are square. It helps to take lots of pictures as you go (and follow the Shop Manual).

The dust boots are torn on your ball joints. They need to be replaced. Dirt is abrasive like sand paper and it will quickly destroy ball joints. - Dave

[Eric S]

Thank you Dave

It looks like the bolts on each side of the lower arms needs to be convinced to leave the place.
I will have a discussions with them (and my hammer).

As for the PS assembly, I had this drawing in the manual and from there I used the right parts. I will have a new look though. Except if somebody confirm this play is normal.

[simplyconnected]

Lower arm bolts may give you problems. They are very large and require heavy tools.

I have never had problems removing the upper arm end bolts (20431-S). As soon as they move, they come out relatively easy. You should not need a hammer. Instead, use a 6-point socket with a long ratchet handle for leverage.

Again, I remove the upper control arm from the frame first, then work on it at the bench. No special tools are necessary. I already explained how I burn the urethane out first then the pivot shaft falls out. When you replace the bushings, put the pivot shaft in first and offer the bushings to it.

The end bolts make sure the bushings don't rotate on the pivot shaft. The bushings have teeth that dig in when tightened. Therefore, your suspension pivots on the urethane, not on steel. It's also VERY important NOT to tighten these bolts until the car sits LEVEL. If you tighten while the wheels hang, the urethane in the bushings will hyper-extend and tear. Again, follow your Shop Manual. <--This is a common mistake that novice 'mechanics' make, then the owners wonder why the new bushings 'wear out' so fast. Sometimes 'mechanics' blame early failure on inferior rubber when that's not the cause at all.

If this isn't clear, ask questions. The proper procedure MUST be followed or you will soon be doing this job again. - Dave

[Eric S]

The upper arm is removed already. Only concern was the removing of the bushing around the shaft and I overlooked your burning method. I will do that tomorrow.

Hammer will be used on the lower arms bolts.
I read again the manual and they say well "Remove the lower arm retaining bolts, washers and shims". At first read I understood Nuts and not Bolts. So the bolts need well to get out...

As for tightening after the car sits, I read it in the manual but it is good to refresh my memory there.

[simplyconnected]

...Only concern was the removing of the bushing around the shaft and I overlooked your burning method. I will do that tomorrow...

The fumes are like burning a tire so do it outside. When the rubber melts out, the shaft and inner sleeve will fall out. Only the outer shell will remain in the control arm. I use a hacksaw blade INSIDE the shell to remove it. Carefully cut the shell but not the control arm. The shell will collapse and come out if you do it right.

Pounding the new bushings in is easy. Don't go past the ribbed stops and make sure you have the pivot shaft correctly inside the control arm before you start.

It might do you well to revisit my posts. Read them a few times. I've done many of these over the years. - Dave

[Eric S]

I started to clean the oil pan in order to paint it.
But doing so with a hand drill and wire brush is ... time consuming.
Is there any recommandation against sand blasting it. I am concerned about having some "sand" stuck under the bottom plate in the pan leading to engine failure.
Is it possible to remove all the sand from there or should I avoid that?

[jopizz]

As long as you rinse it good afterward with plenty of water you shouldn't have any problems. Make sure the drain plug is in when you do it so no sand gets in the threads. Try to keep as much sand from getting to the inside of the pan as possible. Use epoxy primer and semi gloss black when you paint it. Do not get any paint on the inside of the pan.

John

[Eric S]

Bushings has been removed from the upper & lower arms with the advised torch method.
Hammer convinced the lower arms bolts to get out.

Is there any use to get the "Thunderbird Restoration Guide" from Bird Nest?

[Eric S]

I would also like to remind previous concerns :
...on the suspension leaves where the spring axle pads goes, there is a bolt going through. It protrudes a little bit more and I think the rubber will be punched or will force on this bolt. Is that OK and normal?

1.
On the steering valve. I put back the rubbers on the right side, lip facing each other. You (John) noticed an extra O ring on the large side; I guess it was the taper that made looks like there is a washer.
However if you look at the 2 pictures of the inner (yellow springs) I have a play in length like if a washer is missing. But according to the drawing, I don't have any missing. Is this play normal? I can not tightened the nut on the rodanymore. One can see the plastic parts is not in contact with the plate on one picture.

2.
On the shaft, I have been told that I should have a greaser/zerk fitting which I don't have. So we put plenty of grease in there but as you can see there is no cover or whatever in there. Is there something missing like a cover with zerk fitting?

3.
On the steering gear box I read the manual (Yes I did !) that I had to check the lubricant level by removing the lowest bolt... But I don't see what is the lowest bolt as the lowest here is just a cover bolt that screw in the box body. And from where I can fill in grease? There is a round "plug" that I can't see how to remove.

4.
I checked for water entering from the cowl.
Is there any water that could enter from the side cover as on the picture (with screws removed). Should I add some kind of seal here?
Also I saw that the water will drain and fall on the side and pass by the cool air door. Water may enter there by this door in the car.
Should I have some kind of rubber cowl drain going all the way down from the top to the side cowl drain holes. (http://www.squarebirds.org/cowl_drain.htm)
But then it would close the channel and prevent any cold air to enter through the cold air door??
And I can't see any hole drains holes anywhere. I can not see from the wheel arch. Where is it suppose to be?
As it is now I see nowhere the water can go.

5.
We checked the condition of the engine with my mechanic from the removed oil pan. Everything is fine except we have a slight side play on the rods heads on the crankshaft. Nuts are tight. Is that normal the rods' heads move from side to side tightly and a little bit?

[p38fighter]

Maybe this will help with your steering column. This shows the location of the grease fitting. Notice it is in line with the shift rod and thus provides grease to the shift rod. Turn your column and see if you have a hole in it. If its not worn out you should insert a Zerk fitting. If the hole is worn out you could disassemble the column and either weld up and redrill the hole or drill a new one and insert the Zerk. Good luck.

[Frango100]

Regarding the steering gearbox, you just remove the lowest cover bolt for the grease to come out,
while you fill via another cover bolt. When grease comes out from the lower hole, the level is fine.

[Eric S]

I guess I found the hole for the Zerk fitting although it does not screw in. I can not see if it is threaded or not.
Will check closer.

On the steering valve I still have this side play. The whole assembly inside moves. 2 pictures below shows the amount of play as the lever.
Also when I look at the 1949-1959 Ford Parts catalog that Dave sent a few days ago, I see 2 more washers. From parts 3A658 and the next washer which I have, then there is 2 washers that I do not have. See picture below.
Now those 2 washers are not on the picture John posted on 09-20.
In any case I put a picture of the parts I have inside. Anything missing? Normal play?

Then on the lower arm, I removed the bushings but noticed that they were not placed all the way in. And the replacement bushings I got from Bird Nest do not have any shoulder.
What is the trick there?

I read some previous messages and I Dave replied (although I overlooked) about the play in connecting rods ! But I still have to find Connecting Rod Assembly in the shop manual...

[jopizz]

The diagram I provided is correct for a 1959 and 1960 valve. If you have all the parts shown then there's only one way to put it together. Follow the instructions in the manual to check for the correct amount of play. There needs to be some play so the spool can move back and forth. Do you have the stop pin installed? Make sure you tighten the centering spool nut correctly.

John