New member, gonna have many questions!

[simplyconnected]

Please understand, solid state components need full voltage. Under starting load, your battery voltage drops down a lot. If the battery is weak or one cell is 'dead', the voltage can be so low that solid state components simply stop working. You can check this voltage with a meter while the engine is starting.

Your Pertronix unit has three conductors. One is on the screw terminal (GND), one is a black wire (to coil) and one is a red wire (to the key switch).

It's important that your distributor has a solid ground and that no resistors are in the red ignition switch wire. Use the plastic gauge to set the distributor unit to the reluctor that slides over the octagon. Pay close attention to the gap as you run the starter. Make sure the distributor doesn't wobble enough to hit the Pertronix unit.

[Guest]

Thanks for the heads up. Battery is brand new. Ignition wire was colored brown to coil, and I traced it and found no ballast resistor. I installed new plugs, wires, coil, and the conversion kit....car fired right up and purred like a kitten. It didn't surprise me that it ran better, I found that plug #4 was broken at the insulator! A special thanks to John at Thunderbird registry for letting me borrow his coil spring compressor, there is no way I would have been able to do it without it! I have shifted gears and now am concentrating on the cooling system, with a water pump, thermostat, and radiator cap replacement....after a good flushing of course! Hopefully I will be able to go for a ride in the car before the snow flies, then it will be back into the garage for a carb rebuild, and some serious elbow grease with rubbing compound on that faded paint! Bob

[simplyconnected]

Want to save your elbow? Use a buffing wheel with a 3M product called, "Final Finish". It will cut the dead paint off your car. Rubbing compound is too rough and it will leave scratches.

When using the buffing wheel, don't burn the paint by leaving it in one spot. Some colors are more critical than others.

[Guest]

Thanks for the tip, I will pick some up. The amount of dirt and grime embedded in the paint is evident after the rubbing compound turns dark black and sludgy. My carb is in serious need of rebuilding, the car runs so rich that it makes my eyes water! The ID tag is missing off of the carb, so I'm not sure what rebuild kit I will need (if there is more than one)? I'm guessing the carb is the standard 4100,.... I will know more once I remove it and get a good look at it. Bob

[Guest]

Getting close! I rebuilt the carb this weekend, what a mess that was! Someone was in it who didn't have a clue about carbs, the floats were set so low that it was a miracle it even ran! Runs like a top now, but needs some more tweaking on the choke adjustment. I also got the exhaust heat riser to free up, but I am not sure if the thermo spring is working correctly....the valve is only partially open at idle with engine at operating temp. Is this correct? Next I am going to chase down some leaks, I believe the valve cover gaskets are smoked, and there is a pretty bad transmission fluid leak somewhere....no drips on the floor, but the fluid level isn't even on the stick, and the trans is coated pretty thick with goo! I plan on topping it off with fluid, then giving it a good steam cleaning so I can see where the issues are. Bob

[jopizz]

I also got the exhaust heat riser to free up, but I am not sure if the thermo spring is working correctly....the valve is only partially open at idle with engine at operating temp. Is this correct? Bob

The heat riser should open all the way when hot. Either the valve is not free enough or the spring is weak. As long as it opens part way on it's own and you can move it all the way to the open position by hand the pressure of the exhaust as you accelerate should force it open.

John

[Guest]

The valve is definitely free enough, I was actually surprised that I was able to get it working so well....I figured I was in for a long drawn out battle with it . I guess its a weak thermo spring, although it appears to open fully when the engine is rev'd up. I will see how it performs when driving, then see about a replacement thermo spring or just wire it open! I added 1&1/2 qts fluid to the trans, and it came right up to the correct level on the dipstick.I fully expected to see fluid leaking, but so far no drips on the garage floor. Next project will be to change engine oil and filter. Another question: the 66 Ford service manual has 2 different timing spec's for the 390....1 place in the book calls it out as 6 degrees BTDC, another place says 10 degrees....???

[jopizz]

Another question: the 66 Ford service manual has 2 different timing spec's for the 390....1 place in the book calls it out as 6 degrees BTDC, another place says 10 degrees....???

The difference in timing specs may be dependent on whether it has standard or transistorized ignition. The spec for standard ignition is usually 6 degrees. I usually run a little more advance; around 8 degrees. Running too much advance can cause pinging and hard cranking when hot.

John

[simplyconnected]

You want to advance as far as you can to get the most HP and fuel economy.
If too far advanced, the starter will labor as it fights against the engine.
If too far advanced, your temp will go up, so back it down if overheating.
If too far advanced, you might hear some pinging or engine knock. Again, back it down a bit if you do.

Several factors weigh-in on these old engines. The timing chain is probably stretched and the cam timing is retarded, offering much better high-RPM performance than traffic light starts. If the chain is stretched, you might feel a lag in your gas pedal at lights. A new chain gives immediate response on that gas pedal. A new chain helps engine starting so it doesn't need to crank as long and the vacuum increases. - Dave

[Guest]

I appreciate the replies gents! I believe I found the discrepancy (on my part): the 6 degrees was in the engine section of the manual, and refers to STATIC timing....the 10 degrees was in the ignition section and is the setting to look for with a timing light. Anybody know of a good place to get a reasonably priced radiator? Mine has the transmission cooler section bypassed due to an internal leak....previous owner mounted a remote cooler, but I would like to take it back to stock. Also, can the transmission lines be replaced with new OEM ones without removing the engine? They look like a pretty tight fit to snake new ones in there... Thanks for the replies in advance!

[jopizz]

If the radiator is ok other than the cooler I would take it to a radiator shop. They can probably repair or replace the cooler a lot cheaper than the price of a new radiator. As for the transmission lines they can be replaced without removing the engine although it takes some massaging and bending to get them fished around the steering components.

John

[Guest]

Radiator is fine except for the trans cooler. I called a local radiator shop and talked in depth with the guy. He said it is probably repairable, but the trans cooler portion will be tricky to find, and the repair will probably cost in the $250-300 range! I did find some all aluminum replacement radiators on ebay for $200 including shipping, so I might just go that route unless someone knows of a reason to stay away from them? As far as the cooler lines, I might just make my own from soft 3/8 refrigeration copper....it bends and flares easily, and is what I used for my replacement fuel line from the tank to the pump. Only cost $15 for a 20 foot roll at home depot

If the radiator is ok other than the cooler I would take it to a radiator shop. They can probably repair or replace the cooler a lot cheaper than the price of a new radiator. As for the transmission lines they can be replaced without removing the engine although it takes some massaging and bending to get them fished around the steering components.

John

[Guest]

Steamed the engine and trans last week. Took car out for first 50 mile drive, and was impressed with how smooth she rides and drives! When I got back home, I crawled underneath and found no leaks, so I'm not sure why the trans was coated with goo! I pulled a really stupid move though, when I was getting something out of the trunk, I accidentally misplaced the keys but didn't realize it until I had already closed the trunk. Took the rear seat out and began the process of fishing around with a magnet through the tiny slot in the bodywork. 2 hours later, after pulling things out one at a time, I realized that the keys were NOT in the trunk! I then deducted that they could only possibly be in one place, and that is the area between the bumper and where the trunk drops down. I inserted my remote camera in there and saw the keys laying right where I had left them. I was able to fish them out, and began the tedious task of reassembling the rear seat. Moral of the story is to make sure you have a SPARE set of keys...I am going to the store and have a set made this morning. DUH.

[Guest]

More progress. Replaced the door weatherstripping at the roof line, and also ordered new weatherstripping for the internal door area. I have a leak coming in somewhere in the right corner of the front windshield, as the passenger floorboard had some water pooling in it....seems to be trickling in from the lower right area of the windshield when I left the car out in the rain for a few hours. Thank goodness I haven't installed my new carpet yet! The rubber looks to be in good shape, but I guess I might have to bite the bullet and install a new seal on it. Anyone have any tips on removing and replacing it? Paint is cleaning up well using rubbing compound and some serious elbow grease, and I drove over to a local detailing shop where the owner told me he could finish buffing it right up to a nice shine for $130. Haven't been working too much on it because of the 0 degree temps here!

[jopizz]

Are you sure the water is not coming in through the cowl rather than the windshield. There are drains that can become clogged up and cause water to back up and leak into the interior.

John