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  #41  
Old 07-05-2016, 03:21 PM
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Default Wrong Strut Bushings?

Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Your suspension and your brakes are stock, just as described in the 1961 illustration but it's up to you to recognize old, shredded parts will probably not look the same as new ones.

I hope you get these problems resolved using correct parts for a '61 T-bird. BTW, those bushings are sold by many T-bird vendors including Larry's:

These are twenty bucks, not eighty. - Dave

I ordered these from Larry's and installed them about 2 weeks ago. Took the car to the alignment shop this morning, and the mechanic said these are incorrect and wouldn't perform the alignment. The Brake Shop mechanic said the same, and I assured him according to the drawings and catalog suppliers, these are correct.

These are the correct parts for '61/62, but perhaps without the Stabilizer Bar?

Per an earlier post, you will see how damaged those bushings were, and the second set I installed recently now look the same.

Per the Ford illustrations, those parts are 3A187, what I noticed was that '61 Drawing (my vehicle) shows those looking similar to what I posted, but the '63-66 drawing has a more barrel-looking drawing. I refer to this because the '61 drawing does not show the Stabilizer Bar in place where the '63-66 Drawing does. My '61 has the stabilizer bar, and it is shown in my shop manual. I have posted below. My config looks more like the 63/66 config. Should I have used the '63/66 style strut bushings? If so, does anyone know the complete OEM designation (i.e. C4DZ-3A187-AR for the '65-66 Mustang)?

Has anyone any experience with this?







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1961 Thunderbird Convertible
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Last edited by GeoffInCarlsbad : 07-05-2016 at 03:41 PM.
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  #42  
Old 07-05-2016, 04:06 PM
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Rock Auto shows them in stock for $17.35. I guess you can order them and see if they fit any better.

John
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 63 strut link.jpg (168.9 KB, 59 views)
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  #43  
Old 07-05-2016, 04:11 PM
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Ford part number is C2SZ-3A187-A. Fits Thunderbird 62-66 and Lincoln 61-69.

John
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  #44  
Old 07-05-2016, 04:26 PM
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Default Okey dokey

It won't hurt to try. Thanks, John.

BTW, I took out a little bit of brake fluid from my M/C. I had tried to match it up with the fill on the old M/C. When I removed some fluid, it seems to be allowing a better release of the front brakes. When I ran it to the alignment shop this morning, about 5 mile trip, the wheels were quite warm, but not too hot to touch.

Per the manual, I also created a sheet metal guage of the correct Push Rod Mininum (0.962) and used it to reset the Push Rod, and that may have also contributed. Since that is the min spec, I will keep it there.

My Brake Fluid is filled to about 3/8" from the rim. I was thinking perhaps taking down to 1/2" may help.

I just have not had the opportunity to break the bleeder on the wheel cylinder yet. That's the last experiment recommended, but I just have not had the time to try it yet.
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  #45  
Old 07-05-2016, 04:40 PM
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It sounds like you are making progress with the brake problem. You don't need much fluid in the reservoir for the brakes to work. Better to under fill than overfill. If you shortened the push rod even a little that may have been enough to make a difference. As long as your wheels aren't getting hot to the point where you can't touch them and you can stop in a straight line under normal braking then it sounds like problem solved.

John
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  #46  
Old 07-05-2016, 06:10 PM
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Default '61 Strut Bushings

I am going to stick to the '61 Shop Manual and subsequent guides and the B3187B Bushings recommended by the OEM. Since my suspension has the Sway Bar not shown in the diagram, but in the Shop Manual, I thought something was different, but conferring with another local restoration person, '61 p/n is correct.

There must be something else going on with the suspension that is causing this issue with wearing the strut bushings so quickly.

Taking it back to the alignment shop for a front end specialist, as I have replaced all bushings and ball joints in the suspension, and the idler arm bushing.

Amendment: Alignment shop wants me to use 1970-71 Ford F-150 bushings.....I am sticking with the OEM.
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Last edited by GeoffInCarlsbad : 07-05-2016 at 07:00 PM.
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  #47  
Old 07-25-2016, 11:47 AM
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Default Final Update

Took '61 to a reputable restoration shop. Here's what we learned:

1) Drums that were turned by general automotive shop were not in round. Restorer sent them to a specialist and came back round.
2) Shoes/linings did not fit properly to the drum. Right lining was cracked due to all the excessive heat created by the faulty drum.
3) As a pre-caution, I replaced the inner and outer wheel bearings of both front wheels, re-packed properly.

Result: no pull to either side. Brakes very effective. Strut bushings do not appear to be getting chewed up.

Next Step: Proper front end alignment should do the trick. needs a toe-in, and currently there is a slight drift to the left, but all correctable.
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  #48  
Old 07-25-2016, 10:52 PM
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Happy cruising down the boulevard,
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