Thanks All .... And A Question

[Guest]

I got the new Edelbrock installed today. No issues and it's running well. Thanks to those whose recommendations were a great help!

My '59 has a power driver's seat which I assume should go four ways. It only goes forward and back, not up and down. Should I add this to the "to do" list .... or is it correct, as-is?

[jopizz]

Yes, the seat should go up and down also. It could be the motor, relay or a defective switch.

Glad the Edelbrock worked out for you. I'm more than pleased with mine.

John

[YellowRose]

Thanks All .... And A Question

Roger, congratulations on getting the Edelbrock working. I have never had a problem with mine. Regarding the power seat problem, check the Technical Resource Library. You will find considerable information on checking and cleaning the switches in the center console, and troubleshooting and repairing the seat motors. Look under my signature element and you will find the TRL link always there.

[Guest]

Rear Shock Question

My '59 sits lower than any car I've ever owned. I'm planning to have the suspension reworked (all new bushings and shocks, tie rod ends, etc.) Should I be planning to replace the springs, too? I'm told that overload air shocks in the rear will cure much or all of the problem there but can't help thinking that it may be necessary to replace the rear springs. Am I just wasting money or are the rear springs on squarebirds known to require replacement? What about front springs: are they known to be weak?

If I have a choice on brand names, I plan to stay with Moog or TRW, where possible. I know I don't want any parts from China, India, Pakistan, etc. Any comments about preferred brands or country of origin? Thank you, a lot.

[jopizz]

Squarebirds are known for sitting low in the back. That's the way they came from the factory. New leaf springs probably aren't going to help much. If you want to raise the back you can turn the spring shackles around. Someone did that on my '59 and it raises the back quite a bit. As for suspension parts there's no guarantee that name brand parts are made in the USA. With some parts you have a choice. With ball joints only the uppers are available from a name brand manufacturer. If you want lowers also you will have to go with overseas parts.

John

[RustyNCa]

My '59 sits lower than any car I've ever owned. I'm planning to have the suspension reworked (all new bushings and shocks, tie rod ends, etc.) Should I be planning to replace the springs, too? I'm told that overload air shocks in the rear will cure much or all of the problem there but can't help thinking that it may be necessary to replace the rear springs. Am I just wasting money or are the rear springs on squarebirds known to require replacement? What about front springs: are they known to be weak?

If I have a choice on brand names, I plan to stay with Moog or TRW, where possible. I know I don't want any parts from China, India, Pakistan, etc. Any comments about preferred brands or country of origin? Thank you, a lot.

When we went through our 58s front end, I sourced as much as I could from local parts houses so I knew who made the part and actually found they were less expensive than the specialty houses. But, it's been to long since I did it, so I can't remember what I sourced from where. But I have had good service and support from the Birds Nest up in Oregon.

Personally, if the company won't tell me who made the part, I won't buy from them unless forced to. OPG is a great example of that, I quit using them because they got so miffed that I would even ask....

My cure from the low back end was to lower the front end to match....

This is how the 58 sat after replacing all the front end parts....



This is how she sits after I "adjusted" the front end.

[Guest]

Sagging Rear End

I like a lowered car and think your '58 looks good and has the right stance. My '59 sits low with a very slight rake. I like my stance but driving it just doesn't feel right. After I re-bush the front end and change the shocks, I'll have a better idea of how it drives. In about ten days, when that work is done, I'll give the forum a report. Maybe new leafs in the rear or a sway bar will help.

[RustyNCa]

I like a lowered car and think your '58 looks good and has the right stance. My '59 sits low with a very slight rake. I like my stance but driving it just doesn't feel right. After I re-bush the front end and change the shocks, I'll have a better idea of how it drives. In about ten days, when that work is done, I'll give the forum a report. Maybe new leafs in the rear or a sway bar will help.

A sway bar is a huge help. But you should do both the front and back with bigger bars not just the rear.

[Guest]

Time To Re-Bush

This week, my '59 Bird goes in for front end re-bushing. Did I read somewhere here that nothing on the front end should be tightened until the job is done and all parts have been installed? When the job is done, then it's time to go around and tighten everything up at one time? Or am I hallucinating (again)? I'm paying $700 for the work to be done by a long time front end place that used to be a Bear shop, so they should know what they're doing. Any last minute comments or advice?

With Moog parts, Diamondback wide whites, springs, air shocks on the rear, KYBs on the front, an Edelbrock carb, (all new), I'm getting close to putting the car on the road. Thank you again to all on this forum who have contributed their advice to help me!

[Guest]

Remington Bias WWW Tires For Sale

I got my new Diamondback radials and they make all the difference in the world in the Bird's ride. Now I have a set of Remington bias WWW tires on the floor of the garage. The old tires have about two and a half inch whitewalls. They look great but give a terrible ride. Does anyone need them? If they're safe, I'd like to recoup some of the money that has gone into this car. The Remingtons look new, although the car's PO said he put them on at least 20 years ago. I don't see any signs of dry rot. I'm in the L.A. area (Arcadia.)

[jopizz]

This week, my '59 Bird goes in for front end re-bushing. Did I read somewhere here that nothing on the front end should be tightened until the job is done and all parts have been installed? When the job is done, then it's time to go around and tighten everything up at one time? Or am I hallucinating (again)? I'm paying $700 for the work to be done by a long time front end place that used to be a Bear shop, so they should know what they're doing. Any last minute comments or advice?

With Moog parts, Diamondback wide whites, springs, air shocks on the rear, KYBs on the front, an Edelbrock carb, (all new), I'm getting close to putting the car on the road. Thank you again to all on this forum who have contributed their advice to help me!

I know the upper A arm bolts should not be torqued until the car is flat on the ground with a full load on it. I believe that's what you are referring to.

John

[jopizz]

I got my new Diamondback radials and they make all the difference in the world in the Bird's ride. Now I have a set of Remington bias WWW tires on the floor of the garage. The old tires have about two and a half inch whitewalls. They look great but give a terrible ride. Does anyone need them? If they're safe, I'd like to recoup some of the money that has gone into this car. The Remingtons look new, although the car's PO said he put them on at least 20 years ago. I don't see any signs of dry rot. I'm in the L.A. area (Arcadia.)

Unfortunately 20 year old tires should never be used regularly. They may be ok for a trailer queen but that's about it.

John

[simplyconnected]

This week, my '59 Bird goes in for front end re-bushing. Did I read somewhere here that nothing on the front end should be tightened until the job is done and all parts have been installed?...

Modern mechanics rarely see our Squarebirds, so they guess at most of the procedures.

Bring your Shop Manual to your garage and show him the procedure. It's in Group 8-2 (Front Suspension Repair), now go a few more pages for the heading, "Lower Arm and Coil Spring Installation". Big bold letters in paragraph 7, "The lower arm should be in a normal load position when the retaining bolts are tightened."

When the car is in the air with the wheels hanging down, that is NOT the position to tighten urethane bushings. They will hyper extend and tear the rubber causing premature failure. These same instructions carried over since before 1954 Ford cars because your suspension does not pivot on bolts. The rubber flexes around a steel sleeve while the bolts hold the steel parts tight.

Check this out from the past:


Not much has changed, has it? - Dave

[Guest]

Nyles - 9:00 am thurs?

Nyles - See you at 9:00 AM Thursday, 6/10?

[RustyNCa]

Unfortunately 20 year old tires should never be used regularly. They may be ok for a trailer queen but that's about it.

John

I'm guessing they are bias plys, which do seem to run longer than radials, but I agree with John, they are probably fine for running short jaunts around town, but head down a freeway and put some real heat in them and who knows.

I'm running a set of older bias plys on the back of my coupe, but I'd never run them on the front, my fronts are a couple years old is all.