backfire out the tail pipe question

[redstangbob]

As a quick check for TDC on your FE, take out the damper bolt and you'll be able to see the keyway. At TDC it will be straight down. It's not absolutely perfect, but if you drop the distributor in on #1, you can at least get it started. When guessing on the timing, more advanced is better than more retarded. Good luck, Bob C

[davidmij]

Thx gents.
Yes, I did the oil pump on my 352 to see what all was clogged up in there - I'll do the same on this 390.
Bob, which way is more advanced on the distributor, clockwise or counterclockwise.
thx, Dave J

[redstangbob]

Looking down on the cap, clockwise is advancing.

[davidmij]

It's alive!
It's 22 degrees outside, and my hands are half frozen, but it runs!

I did basically did what we discussed to get it running. I also had to advance the distributor until the vacuum module couldn't go any further clockwise because it was hitting a intake manifold fitting. If I back it off it won't quite start. Could I still be off by one distributor tooth? Or would it not run at all if that was the case?

The carb is leaking a little out the accelerator pump cover. I hear a sort of sputtering sound out the drivers side head or exhaust manifold, and between the #7 and #8 plugs on the head it is wet and has what I'm guessing is anti freeze steaming, even kind of sizzling in one spot. Might this be the sign of a cracked head?
I couldn't take a closer look while it was running because I was alone, and if I let off the gas it would die.
What do you guys make of these symptoms?

thx a bunch, Dave J

[Guest]

Yes ...

still one tooth off. Mike

[simplyconnected]

I'm with Mike. That twist in the gears needs to be considered before you set your distributor down. When it is right, your vacuum advance will be comfortably centered when the points juuuuust open and the rotor is pointed at #1.

Glad you finally got it running. Your leaks could be from a bad gasket or a host of other causes. Without any history, an 'unknown' engine should be treated as nothing better than a 'core'. If you plan to use it in your car, it needs to be torn down for serious inspection and rebuilt if your castings are ok.

Do it right and do it once. - Dave

[davidmij]

Thx gents,
We got snow last night so I'll be giving it a rest for now.
When the weather gets better I'll do as you said Dave Dare and set it properly. That has to wait until I get the piston stops and a timing pointer, but I'll order those this weekend. I made a "make shift" pointer out of a coat hanger for now.

Then some time this winter I'll pull the motor and put it on a stand so I can tear into it and see what I have. It'll get done as money and time permit. Do the heads on a "67" need the hardened valve seats, or were they OK by 1967?

thx, DAve J

[simplyconnected]

...Do the heads on a "67" need the hardened valve seats, or were they OK by 1967?...

All I know is, I had to re-do the exhaust seats in my 1980 Harley because it was built for leaded gas.

OEM timing pointers are chincy at best. I know that they get about $15/ea on eBay for a stupid sheet metal pointer for my Y-Block. You could probably make one and bolt it on. The dimensions are in the bottom listing. - Dave

[davidmij]

Thank you Dave, I saw a spot on my cover that looked like it had a tack weld from something. It's right where the one in the picture you provided is - it's also the same as the ones I googled and found. I'm not gonna bother replacing the cover just for the pointer - I'll fab one out of sheet metal I have.

I did go out this afternoon and move the distributor one more tooth. It fires right up even below freezing. The anti freeze that seemed to be sizzling cleared up, I think I had spilled some, and the carb quite leaking too. Of course I'll still rebuild the carb when I pull the engine. I could check out the sound a lot better now that it's running well - I'm about 90% sure it's a leaky exhaust manifold.

thx for the picture Dave D!