62 cranks but wont start

[Jimz Bird]

It would seem odd that all the wires went bad enough that it wouldn't start.

With the dizzy cap off do the points spark and does it look like the shaft is spinning OK?

Other than the new alternator, anything else change or happen? Hard speed bump, any funny noise while it was running?

I don't think it is the ignition switch but try to start it with the key on and then jumper the starter solenoid. Worth a shot.
Is there a coil wire going from the solenoid to the coil? Maybe it came off.

[simplyconnected]

Jim, you may be on to something here.

When you connected the starter solenoid wires, did you put only the starter wire on the starter side and ALL the rest on the battery side?

Does your solenoid have one or two small posts?

Did you watch the rotor go around with the distributor cap off? And when your crank timing marks are at TDC, is the rotor pointing at #1 (or #6) spark plug tower? Your distributor cap should have a "1" right on top.

[Mexiamericano]

Yes, starter is seperate from battery side.

Solenoid has 2 posts.

And ive been trying to figure this out solo without a helper, so i havent been able to watch the rotor or points spark

[Jimz Bird]

What are the wires on the posts connected to and which post goes where - the other End of where the wire is connected?

Is one not there that was?

Does your Gen/Alt light come on with the key on?

[simplyconnected]

Alfred with all respect, after 20 posts we still don't know if the distributor is turning. If it isn't, you should NOT have a spark.

Either get a buddy or a remote start button. These engines are fifty years old and anything could go wrong. Let's prove the mechanical functions before advancing to the electrical portion.

And please, we are trying to help; read my questions a few times and answer them in detail. I never asked if the starter motor was connected to the battery side of your starter solenoid.

Pictures help all of us, too. I invite you to send them to my personal mail address (simplyconnected@aol.com). We can only go by the detail you tell us, which makes troubleshooting difficult from behind this computer. Let's troubleshoot from square one and go through the steps in an organized fashion. I do not throw parts or money at a problem unless it is proved to need them. - Dave

[KULTULZ]

battery side.

Solenoid has 2 posts.

And ive been trying to figure this out solo without a helper, so i havent been able to watch the rotor or points spark

You should be able to see if the rotor is turning while cranking from the driver's seat with the dist cap and air cleaner asm removed.

On your system, the IGN SW START position bypasses the IGN Resistor by activating the stater solenoid which in turn sends BATT current (12V) to the coil (for quicker start-ups). When the engine starts and the IGN SW is returned to RUN or ON, the BATT voltage is sent through the IGN SW and then through a resistor (block or wire) which should reduce the voltage signal to approx. 9V.

You need these values (or close) to fire the system properly.

You can also disconnect the condenser from the points set if the condenser is thought to be bad (will ground IGN)

Then you go to the Secondary IGN System and also verify engine static timing (if you are sure the fuel system is OK). Any chance the choke is stuck/frozen and not allowing air to enter the engine (flooding)?

[Mexiamericano]

Alfred with all respect, after 20 posts we still don't know if the distributor is turning. If it isn't, you should NOT have a spark.

Either get a buddy or a remote start button. These engines are fifty years old and anything could go wrong. Let's prove the mechanical functions before advancing to the electrical portion.

And please, we are trying to help; read my questions a few times and answer them in detail. I never asked if the starter motor was connected to the battery side of your starter solenoid.

Pictures help all of us, too. I invite you to send them to my personal mail address (simplyconnected@aol.com). We can only go by the detail you tell us, which makes troubleshooting difficult from behind this computer. Let's troubleshoot from square one and go through the steps in an organized fashion. I do not throw parts or money at a problem unless it is proved to need them. - Dave

Totally understand Dave, I'll go back and read through the posts and answer as detailed as possible.

[tp tbird]

62 won't start

Is there a ballast resistor on the 62 birds like the 59's?I had a a problem with my 430 when I first tried to start it when I put the motor in it.

[Mexiamericano]

Jim, you may be on to something here.

When you connected the starter solenoid wires, did you put only the starter wire on the starter side and ALL the rest on the battery side?

Does your solenoid have one or two small posts?

Did you watch the rotor go around with the distributor cap off? And when your crank timing marks are at TDC, is the rotor pointing at #1 (or #6) spark plug tower? Your distributor cap should have a "1" right on top.

Rotor spins when cranking but rather slowly i feel. Not sure what else to look for?

[Jimz Bird]

At least we are spinning.

Your battery must be getting low by now. Probably an overnight charge is in order.

While it is charging, run to the auto store and get a remote switch. It will make it a lot easier on you.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Remote-Starter-Switch/_/N-25eo

[KULTULZ]

You have to have a good fully charged battery for proper starting and performance. I know you did an ALT upgrade but is the BAT up to snuff? Is the BAT receiving the correct charge amount from the new ALT? What wiring harness did you use?

[simplyconnected]

...And when your crank timing marks are at TDC, is the rotor pointing at #1 (or #6) spark plug tower? Your distributor cap should have a "1" right on top.

This is important. Bump your engine until the timing marks are close to TDC and look at your rotor.

[scumdog]

This is important. Bump your engine until the timing marks are close to TDC and look at your rotor.

Kinda what I was trying to say earlier re putting a wad of paper into the spark-plug hole Dave.

My thoughts were when plug sparks & paper wad 'pop's then the timing mark SHOULD be on the ball-park.

[simplyconnected]

Scumdog, I guess there's a lot of ways to do this. Guys with brass cars set the crank, turn the radio 'white noise' up, and rotate the distributor. When the points open, the radio speaker emits a loud noise.

It's important to me that his cam timing hasn't jumped time. We have timing marks which makes static checks very easy to see. - Dave

[Mexiamericano]

You have to have a good fully charged battery for proper starting and performance. I know you did an ALT upgrade but is the BAT up to snuff? Is the BAT receiving the correct charge amount from the new ALT? What wiring harness did you use?

Battery showed 12.7 volts with the key ON, when cranked it dropped to 12.5... I used 2 AWG wire for the portion from Alternator to Battery source...