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  #181  
Old 10-05-2018, 05:44 AM
Eric S Eric S is offline
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I would like to confirm my order from Bird Nest but I need to know if anyone uses the Thunderbird Restoration Guide and if it's worth having it?
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  #182  
Old 10-05-2018, 10:45 AM
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Default Eric's 1960 T-Bird

Eric if you replace your Shop Manual, buy the CD version. Then when you need information to use to work on the car, just print it out, take it to the car, and if you get grease on the pages, throw them away. The CD is about $11 cheaper than the book. As for the Restoration Guide, I will let someone else comment on that.
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  #183  
Old 10-05-2018, 11:41 AM
Eric S Eric S is offline
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Thank you Ray.
I already have a computer version of the manual and will print pages as needed.
Just wondering if there is maybe more information or pictures in the Guide...
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  #184  
Old 10-05-2018, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric S View Post
I would like to confirm my order from Bird Nest but I need to know if anyone uses the Thunderbird Restoration Guide and if it's worth having it?
It's only worth having if you plan on preparing your car for concours judging. It does not have any technical information in it. It's just a reference guide as to how the car looked when it left the factory. I have a copy but the pictures are not very clear.

John
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  #185  
Old 10-05-2018, 12:22 PM
Joe Johnston Joe Johnston is offline
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Quote:
I would like to confirm my order from Bird Nest but I need to know if anyone uses the Thunderbird Restoration Guide and if it's worth having it?
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If you are referring to the 58-66 guide by William Wonder I vote it is being well worth while. I bought that book and shop manuals before I bought my car. I was looking for a 61-66 convertible - preferably a Sport Roadster - and wanted to know how to tell the differences between a genuine SR and a fake. The book has lots of information and well worth reading the sections that are of interest. A few dollars spent on a couple of books, puts a lot of knowledge at your fingertips.

Edit - I also must agree with jopizz below!
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  #186  
Old 10-11-2018, 12:00 PM
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Hello

All the bolts I receive from Bird nest (oil pan, Exhaust manifold and rocker cover) are "in the white" un-painted.
How are supposed to be finished the bolts, nuts and washers on the front suspension.
I cleaned them by sand blasting and am wodering if I shall paint them black or leave them "to be rusted later"?
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  #187  
Old 10-11-2018, 12:35 PM
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The bolts are normally not painted. If you are worried about rusting you can spray them with some flat clear before you install them or dab it on with a brush afterward.

John
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  #188  
Old 10-15-2018, 12:10 PM
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My memory fails as much as my notes.
Anyone can remind me how/where to install this "washer" that goes on the end of the steering power cylinder. Being too small, it do not "cap" the nut. (replacement parts on top, originals on bottom)

Also I am replacing the bushings on the idler arm. One goes through a rod and the other one through the idler arm plate.
Question is that they are longer than where they go so how do we have to adjust the depth we seat them in?
My memory and my notes are not involved there as the car had a different system of bushing originally.
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  #189  
Old 10-15-2018, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric S View Post
Also I am replacing the bushings on the idler arm. One goes through a rod and the other one through the idler arm plate.
Question is that they are longer than where they go so how do we have to adjust the depth we seat them in?
Use the picture on page 9-18 of the shop manual as a reference. It doesn't have to be exact.

John
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  #190  
Old 10-23-2018, 05:43 PM
Eric S Eric S is offline
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Hello there
I worked on the manual to put back together the front suspension.
I remain concerned about how deep to seat the bushings in the arms.
Replacement bushings do not have any shoulder to limit their position.
On the upper arm the limit will be made against the inner shaft.
On the lower arm though. The way we'll put them in will affect the "size" or width of the assembly.
Now we have shims there. So I assume this dimension is critical and must be kept close to the original. But I have no mean to duplicate the original dimension (which I did not measured).

I guess I am missing something here.
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