Rack and pinion conversion

[simplyconnected]

Bryan, you can see the bolt ends through the frame members. My brackets are simple "L" shaped with clamps around the rack gear. The mid section moves side-to-side while the ends are stationary. Practically every auto parts store has one on their shelf at around $60. Oh, and they rarely ever leak.

This setup may be clearer by looking at the gear. Notice where the rubber mounts are:

[RustyNCa]

Bryan, you can see the bolt ends through the frame members. My brackets are simple "L" shaped with clamps around the rack gear. The mid section moves side-to-side while the ends are stationary. Practically every auto parts store has one on their shelf at around $60. Oh, and they rarely ever leak.

This setup may be clearer by looking at the gear. Notice where the rubber mounts are:

Ah, okay, I was trying to picture how it functioned, that makes alot more sense now.

Regarding the power steering pump, we can't use the factory pump to power the rack?

[simplyconnected]

...Regarding the power steering pump, we can't use the factory pump to power the rack?

For most non-mechanical people this information is going to be boring but I want to talk about some of the features of this rack gear...

Squarebirds have a separate piston so we all know how they work; basically there is linear piston/shaft motion between the ports. This newer rack gear works the exact same way with a more modern philosophy.

These rack gears are 'all inclusive' of the piston, control valve, and the rack and pinion gears. In order to accomplish all that the unit must be smaller which requires more hydraulic pressure to do the same work. With that in mind, consider these pictures:



The piston must live on one end. It's obvious which end the piston is by the hydraulic lines and the fact that it attaches to the rack gear.

The other end has the pinion gear AND end-room for the rack gear to traverse the entire stroke.

Most modern power steering pumps will work just fine because they come from rack and pinion setups. The older pumps don't output enough to satisfy a smaller diameter piston. - Dave

[Tbird6]

Great conversion!
Any chance you could post some about the brackets you used?
Diagrams?
Any more details on which pump can be used and fit our FE engine brackets?
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[simplyconnected]

Great conversion!
Any chance you could post some about the brackets you used?
Diagrams?
Any more details on which pump can be used and fit our FE engine brackets?..

I wish I could be more detailed but as the pictures show, this is a Galaxie with a Y-Block (it came stock). I fabricated the Mustang power steering pump using a 'C' bracket that bolts to my water pump housing. I did the same with my 130-amp alternator for the electric fan.

The brackets are simple 'L' -shaped that bolt into the same patterns as my steering box and idler arm. If you cannot pattern the frame, then use those components. Hole transfer punches work well but aren't necessary.

I have not retrofit to a FE engine but I can see that coming soon. Just about any pump from a R&P system will work. I happen to have one from the Mustang. I'm sure a GM or Chrysler will work as well.

The R&P conversion is great because it eliminates a lot of joints so all the steering wheel slop goes away. 'Simple is always better' because there are fewer things to go wrong. 'Off the shelf' parts are usually cheap and available everywhere. - Dave

[Brushwolf]

Cavalier R&P install

I wish I could be more detailed but as the pictures show, this is a Galaxie with a Y-Block (it came stock). I fabricated the Mustang power steering pump using a 'C' bracket that bolts to my water pump housing. I did the same with my 130-amp alternator for the electric fan.

The brackets are simple 'L' -shaped that bolt into the same patterns as my steering box and idler arm. If you cannot pattern the frame, then use those components. Hole transfer punches work well but aren't necessary.

I have not retrofit to a FE engine but I can see that coming soon. Just about any pump from a R&P system will work. I happen to have one from the Mustang. I'm sure a GM or Chrysler will work as well.

The R&P conversion is great because it eliminates a lot of joints so all the steering wheel slop goes away. 'Simple is always better' because there are fewer things to go wrong. 'Off the shelf' parts are usually cheap and available everywhere. - Dave

That really is a very clever and economical approach Dave. Pulling the knocking 390 motor and CM from my 59 TBird soon and figure that's the time for doing disk brake conversion and rehab steering as well.

Your approach seems real doable. Cutting brackets, welding and drilling holes to match existing frame holes doesn't seem too tall an order with motor out.

Happen to have an 88 Mustang PS pump here already too. Know what pulley to use to replace serpentine pulley?

Read elsewhere that Sanderson header should probably fit using R&P, but not sure. Wonder if the FPA headers will still fit on a R&P converted car if the Sanderson FE shorty still doesn't...?

Thanks, Mike

[Mike Wright]

T B rack and pinion.

You will need to cut the steering shaft ( located inside column) .Attach a borgeson flex universal joint to this. Obtain a Double D shaft to go to the Universal at the rack. I also recommend you use a steering shaft stabilizer to the frame to hold the double D shaft stable.

I have just put a borgeson steering in my 60 t.b.This is not a rack and pinion but a steering box design. More info can be obtained from Borgerson in Travelers Rest S.C. I did not use the TB column. Instead used a GM tilt column . Developed a modification to use the original TB Steering wheel With this mod it is necessary to go with a floor shift. ( I used a Locar shifter.) One mistake I made was not shorting the GM column enough need to shorten it about 2 more inches. Advantages to this mod is having dimmer switch controlled by turn signal lever, Ignition sw on column, and having a 4 way emergency flasher.

Also got so irritated with the Ford auto. Put in a GM 700R4.

I am working on replacing the Expansion tank now. Have an interference problem with the GM type of distributor.

Did the typical welwood disk brake mod. 5 months on the lift hope to have it all finished soon.

[Tbird1044]

I recently contacted Borgeson to see if they had a kit available for a 60 TBird and they replied back that they did not. I found a reference on their site for one that would fit a 55-57 TBird but nothing for the squarebird. Glad to see you made it work. Any contacts for Borgeson?
Nyles

[scumdog]

You will need to cut the steering shaft ( located inside column) .Attach a borgeson flex universal joint to this. Obtain a Double D shaft to go to the Universal at the rack. I also recommend you use a steering shaft stabilizer to the frame to hold the double D shaft stable.

I have just put a borgeson steering in my 60 t.b.This is not a rack and pinion but a steering box design. More info can be obtained from Borgerson in Travelers Rest S.C. I did not use the TB column. Instead used a GM tilt column . Developed a modification to use the original TB Steering wheel With this mod it is necessary to go with a floor shift. ( I used a Locar shifter.) One mistake I made was not shorting the GM column enough need to shorten it about 2 more inches. Advantages to this mod is having dimmer switch controlled by turn signal lever, Ignition sw on column, and having a 4 way emergency flasher.

Also got so irritated with the Ford auto. Put in a GM 700R4.

I am working on replacing the Expansion tank now. Have an interference problem with the GM type of distributor.

Did the typical welwood disk brake mod. 5 months on the lift hope to have it all finished soon.

As most GM motors have the dizzy at the rear of them I’m not sure how your expansion tank interferes with it.

Or have I missed something?? ( again!)

[Brushwolf]

You will need to cut the steering shaft ( located inside column) .Attach a borgeson flex universal joint to this. Obtain a Double D shaft to go to the Universal at the rack. I also recommend you use a steering shaft stabilizer to the frame to hold the double D shaft stable.

I have just put a borgeson steering in my 60 t.b.This is not a rack and pinion but a steering box design. More info can be obtained from Borgerson in Travelers Rest S.C. I did not use the TB column. Instead used a GM tilt column . Developed a modification to use the original TB Steering wheel With this mod it is necessary to go with a floor shift. ( I used a Locar shifter.) One mistake I made was not shorting the GM column enough need to shorten it about 2 more inches. Advantages to this mod is having dimmer switch controlled by turn signal lever, Ignition sw on column, and having a 4 way emergency flasher.

Also got so irritated with the Ford auto. Put in a GM 700R4.

I am working on replacing the Expansion tank now. Have an interference problem with the GM type of distributor.

Did the typical welwood disk brake mod. 5 months on the lift hope to have it all finished soon.

I think everyone should do with their car what makes them happy, whether it be all original, restomod, or whatever. I like the time capsule effect of being behind the wheel, so prefer to keep the appearance of the original column, steering wheel and shifter.

If I used an aftermarket column, it might make the steering linkage easier to connect and tilt would be nice, but I think I prefer leaving the key in the dash. How did you adapt the TBird wheel to the GM column?

What is under the hood, steering and brakes doesn't diminish the "time capsule" effect for me, though I know it does for others. Buddy I used to work with is a "numbers matching" kind of guy, but that doesn't mean very much to me.

I have a relatively new B&M Starshifter on the shelf and an extra 1959 console, but I prefer to leave it mostly stock-appearing from the driver seat. On the exterior, I will definitely use aftermarket wheels, but leave the rest otherwise stock-appearing. Do like the color of Greg's car, but will probably leave mine the original white for now anyway.

If you are working with Ford expansion tank and GM type HEI distributor (aftermarket?), 700R4 transmission, I am guessing you have adapted the GM OD transmission to the Ford motor? Aftermarket conversion bellhousing? Any tunnel mod's required? Special flex plate and starter?

Yeah Ford doesn't make it easy to put in an OD automatic transmission unless you have a later small block, IDT... But, for the cost of converting you can buy a whole lot of gas and with my stock 3.10:1 rear gear, it shouldn't be too bad RPM-wise on the open highway, or too sluggish on takeoff with BB torque advantage. Figure I will start with the stock 3.10 and if it is too high, I have 3:30(?), 3:55 and 3:70 9 inch 28 spline differentials that I could swap in - if it seems like a better idea later on.

I have read articles about Borgerson conversions installed in mid-fifties Fords and seen ads for them. I used to be concerned that the R&P conversions weren't heavy duty enough for a full size car, but my pickup with R&P is 600-800 lbs heavier with an empty box than the TBird, so recently have lost my aversion to considering using them.

Thanks, Mike

[Brushwolf]

Brackets for R&P no longer available..

There was a kit produced by Wurth about 10 years ago to use a Cavalier rack and similar to Dave's conversion. Apparently owner has since passed away and website is gone.. Saved the pic off another Ford Hobbiest site to make my own brackets though.. Now see if I can figure out how to post it..

[Brushwolf]

Wurth kit no longer available..

No dice on saved pic. Format not amongst those listed as acceptable.. Maybe a link instead..

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/0804rc-rack-and-pinion-steering/#0804rc_09_z-rack_and_pinion_steering

[Brushwolf]

Speedway Heim Joints and Tie Rod sleeves?

This car is a '59 Galaxie. There isn't much difference but it came with a Y-Block.

I'm not using GM arms at all. I'm using my original outer tie rods and these rods with associated heim joints (as mentioned, from https://www.speedwaymotors.com): CLICK HERE

Dave,

Do you recall what length these were? I see they come in quite a few different length..

I see the 5/8 Heim joints come all the way from a basic one at $7, a high carbon steel joint at $13 and a stainless joint at $70. Would think the high carbon steel joint would be sufficient..

Presume you also need 1 left hand thread and 1 right hand Heim joints replacing inner tie rod ends, 2 LH thread and 2 RH thread jam nuts, 2 Heim tall spacers for 5/8 joints for use with two grade eight 5/8" bolts and locking nuts.

Probably a package of the thin Heim spacers to fine tune distance of inner Heim joints from the bracket that bolts to the Cavalier Rack to stay in the same vertical plane as the replaced stock inner tie rods.

After brackets are fabricated and the tie rod parts are assembled, guessing from your pic that the stabilizer Heim joint is 3/4" and need a couple jam nuts for that, maybe a spacer, maybe not..

Then a coupler that fits the rack spline, a double yoke U joint that connects to a length of double D(?) shaft cut to fit, and finally the coupler that fits the column (3/4"?) with a 3rd U joint?

Am I getting close?

Thanks, Mike

[simplyconnected]

I've been out of town and out of touch with SB so forgive me for taking so long to answer.

I did my conversion many years ago. There are many details I cannot recall and I'm sure some over the counter parts have improved or new replacements are available.

Without crawling under the Galaxie, I cannot recall the tie rod lengths but yours will be different for a Thunderbird. Mine simply screw into the stock outer tie rods w/plenty of room to tweak toe-in on each end. So yes, one end of the tie rod has RH threads and the other end has LH. There are NO sleeves, but I did use jam nuts to lock each end of the tie rods. The tie rods end up being solid with practically no slop because there are so few number of joints.

My heim joints are carbon steel.

My OEM Right Outer tie rod end is 3.22" long AND the Left Inner uses the exact same part number (also for T-Bird). I believe they are LH thread. Rock Auto has an abundance of these (MOOG ES416L). You can use two of these as your outer tie rod ends then buy RH heim joints for the inners. Again, your new tie rod ends will need a LH and a RH tapped thread on each end. So, two tie rods that are identical.

I see your picture. Instead of offsetting the rack gear's center bracket, I centered my rack gear and adjusted my frame brackets. After thinking about it, you're better off hugging the left frame with the steering spline for better U-joint placement.

When I cut my steering shaft, I used the offal to make the center piece instead of buying more 3/4" stock. It simply meant cutting another double-D on each end of a short piece. None of my joints are welded because the joints use a cap screw that needs relief cut into the double-D in order to fit. I hope I said that right. The tightening cap screw won't fit unless the shaft underneath it has a relief. It's a double safety of sorts, to keep the components from moving even if the clamping screw loosens. Notice, the rack gear has that relief just under the spline? Same idea.

I didn't need special spacers. I'm a firm believer of cutting steel pipe to correct length if need be. I often do this in boxed-in frame members; welded in place if a bolt goes through. Ford does the same by using sheet metal 'curly-cues' in the frame-halves, for the steering box for example. Otherwise, serious bolt torque will crush the frame.

Your picture (below) is pretty much consistent with what I have.
I labeled the parts, A, B, C, etc. A, B and F are straight forward. D is the center bracket with heim joints for the tie rods. E is the part that mounts to the top of your frame using holes for the clutch's 'Z-bracket'. A straight 3/4" heim joint is bolted to that bracket to tie your U-joints together.

Yes, I used one double-yolk U-joint and one straight U-joint. If I remember right, the straight U-joint fit the spline on one end with a double-D on the other (but I have to check that). - Dave

[Derbird]

I originally mounted my rack with the steering spline close to the rail, it doesn’t work good because the tire will hit it. Made the second set of brackets to shift it over an inch or so.