Power Steering Control Valve Specs

[jopizz]

I've been driving my '59 for a few days now since I got it running and have noticed that the steering is erratic at best. I've driven lots of squarebirds with belted tires like mine so I know that handling leaves a lot to be desired but this seems to be overly bad. One thing I'm not sure about is the power steering control valve. When I removed it to rebuild it I reinstalled it exactly as I took it out which measured 10 1/2 inches from the pitman arm to the idler arm rod. The shop manual specifies 9 1/2 inches. I'm wondering if this is contributing to my problem. Does anyone know if the 9 1/2 inches is a hard and fast rule or should it be adjusted when the front end is aligned.

John

[KULTULZ]

INSTALLATION

Many Control Valve & Ball Stud units screw onto the end of the centerlink or a center link extension. All units from 1967 are of this design. There is a specific distance that the assembly is supposed to be threaded onto the center link for proper alignment with the rest of the linkage. Never assume that screwing the new assembly onto the center link the same amount as the old one was screwed on is correct. A previous owner or mechanic may have installed it wrong or your new assembly may be a slightly different length than the one it replaces. Check the information that comes with your control valve assembly to see what the correct position is on the center link. If the instructions do not cover your car year or model, refer to the proper shop manual for directions.


There is a hole in the threads of the center link for a roll pin to go into. This roll pin locates the ball stud sleeve in the correct orientation on the end of the center link. Make sure after you have the unit threaded onto the center link the correct distance, that you line up the hole with the slit in the ball stud sleeve. Install the roll pin and then install and tighten the clamp.

From- http://www.stangerssite.com/steeringsysteminfo.html

[Astrowing]

I would suggest making sure that your preload setting on that control valve spring is correctly set first as specified in the manual.

Did you do the tests on the bench in the vise that is suggested in the manual to ensure that the control valve moves back and forth properly after you rebuilt it?

Is your toe-in set properly? It is also possible to have a brand new tire that pulls in one direction or the other.

I don't think whether it is 9 1/2 or 10 1/2 would cause performance differences in the power steering. The pitman arm would simply sit at a different angle to compensate.

[jopizz]

I did do the tests as mentioned in the shop manual and adjusted the spring after I rebuilt it. An odd thing though, I tried to adjust the control valve to the 9 1/2 inch spec but I ran out of threads at about 10 inches. At that point there was no hole for the stop pin. I did as mentioned in the shop manual. I screwed it on so that there were four threads showing. At that point it measured 10 7/8. The odd thing is that is the exact measurement as specified in the 1958 Ford shop manual. I'm wondering since my car is an early '59 if they were still using the '58 idler arm rod and specs. I think you are probably right about the toe-in. Just looking at the front tires they look out of alignment.

John

[KULTULZ]

I'm wondering since my car is an early '59 if they were still using the '58 idler arm rod and specs.

One needs a 49/59 MPC to further look into that possibility. It may be that a previous owner either chose to put another model control valve or it was done at a repair shop.

Does the valve have an I.D. Tag or any noticeable Casting I.D. characters?

[jopizz]

The suspension in the car was pretty much untouched when I got it. Original ball joints, shocks, steering components. The control valve is definitely a '59. The seals and bushings for a '59 control valve are a one year only. It took me a while to find them.

John

[KULTULZ]

John,

I have a 1958 Manual here (online actually) and see what you are saying. I have no idea other that possibly somewhere in its' fifty-year service history that a previous owner installed (or had installed) either the incorrect drag link and/or control valve.

I have cataloging only back to 1960 and it shows for 1960, the FORD and BIRD uses the same control valve (1959 PN). Of course the drag links are different (I am thinking the full size FORD being longer).

If someone here has a 1949/59 MPC, it will show if the 1958 and 1959 link (3304) and/or control valve (3A730) are the same or different.

Keep us informed as we all will learn from it...

[jopizz]

According to the Ford Master Parts Catalog the control valve and the steering rod are different from '58 to '59. Looks like I may have a '58 rod and a '59 control valve. I guess on an early production car anything's possible.

John

[Astrowing]

The fitting sizes changed at some point, but they are the same dimensions overwise, correct?

[jopizz]

Looks like the valves are all the same dimensions as far as length goes.

[tr59bird]

Resolution?

Hi John,

Were you able to get a resolution on this difference in measurement? I am having the exact same problem. Right down to 4 threads showing and the distance being about an inch more than the manual indicates.

Thanks,
Tom

[jopizz]

I believe the '59 manual is incorrect. I believe it should be 10 3/4" the same as the 1960 shop manual measurement. When I install a valve that's the measurement I use and I haven't had any issue with it.

John

[tr59bird]

Great!

Thanks John, thanks exactly the measurement I get.

What was the root cause of your erratic steering?

Tom

[jopizz]

If I remember correctly the main issue was the upper control arm bushings. Once I replaced those and got the front end realigned the erratic steering was gone. Also radial tires really made a big difference.

John