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  #21  
Old 06-10-2013, 11:03 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Gee, what's this little capillary tube on the switch that I was going to throw out? "Insert into evaporator fins". Guess it is to auto-cycle the AC and keep the evap from freezing up.

Oops.
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  #22  
Old 04-21-2015, 09:34 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Back at it, with the running body back, no doors, hood or fenders, last night I routed hoses, ready for a trip to King, NC hose shop to crimp them. Here's my routing plan. I'm keeping these out of the engine bay as much as possible to keep the routine maintenance items more accessible.

1. This is between the firewall and the evaporator (under the dash). Pardon my dust. The short black hose is the #10 return, The longer is the #6 from the condenser. The blue is one of the heater hoses. All four terminate in bulkhead fittings.
2. This is the engine side of the firewall. #6 above #10. The heater hose is the red cap, not yet connected.
3. This is the drier and condenser. The #6 aluminum tube has to be re-made since I kinked it. #8 hose is at the top of the condenser.
4. Passing under the frame, #8 below headed to the compressor, #6 passes between the control arms towards the firewall.
5. Here's the #8 passing behind and under the sway bar from the compressor.
6. Here's the #10 passing in front and below the sway bar on its way to the firewall.
7. Here's the #6 and #10 behind the control arms. I'll use several clamps to position these out of the way of the moving arms, and tight against the frame to pass behind the inner fenders (not yet installed).
8. Here's a critical point for the #10 hose behind the spring tower. There is a small space between the tower and the inner fender to pass through, and the big hose will likely get kinked here, so I'll use a 75 degree elbow here. The #6 will pass along side of it, then under the hinge ad to the bulkhead fitting.
9. Here's my duct taped version of the #6 hard pipe at the drier.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1. dash unit to firewall.jpg (72.1 KB, 107 views)
File Type: jpg 2. 6 and 10 at firewall.jpg (45.9 KB, 106 views)
File Type: jpg 3. drier.jpg (51.8 KB, 106 views)
File Type: jpg 4. 6 and 8 ahead of control arms.jpg (43.2 KB, 106 views)
File Type: jpg 5. 8 from compressor.jpg (56.4 KB, 104 views)
File Type: jpg 6. 10 to compressor.jpg (63.4 KB, 104 views)
File Type: jpg 7. 6 and 10 behind control arms.jpg (61.0 KB, 104 views)
File Type: jpg 8. 10 under hinge, 6 loose.jpg (44.2 KB, 103 views)
File Type: jpg 9. 6 condensor to drier .jpg (60.3 KB, 103 views)
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  #23  
Old 04-29-2015, 08:49 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Yesterday I got the hoses crimped and installed them permanently.
1. New hard pipe at the drier.
2. This is the hanger that I came up with. It allows a tighter fit to the frame that a P strap. I found some heavy duty zip ties at Lowes electrical department, and use a #10 sheet metal screw to hold them in place. A rubber grommet keeps the screw head from abrading the hose. To remove it, cut the strap and use a new one.
3. No. 8 hose tight against the frame.
4. Plenty of room with the wheel turned left to its stop. These tires are larger than OE.
5. This is behind the tire, my first attempt. I hung the #10 house than zip tied the #6 to it. The tire rubs when full lock right.
6. My second attempt, hanging the smaller hose separately. The tire still rubs here, but only with the suspension fully unloaded. There's plenty of room at normal ride height. To be safe, I think that I'll make a steel shield here.
7. Tweaked the routing at the fire wall.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 0.jpg (59.4 KB, 99 views)
File Type: jpg 1.jpg (59.0 KB, 98 views)
File Type: jpg 2.jpg (54.3 KB, 98 views)
File Type: jpg 2a.jpg (49.4 KB, 98 views)
File Type: jpg 3.jpg (62.3 KB, 98 views)
File Type: jpg 3a.jpg (67.1 KB, 97 views)
File Type: jpg 4.jpg (39.5 KB, 98 views)
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  #24  
Old 04-29-2015, 09:11 AM
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HighwayThunder HighwayThunder is offline
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Default Belt problems with retrofit AC from CAA

I have the same CAA system as you and had to work through some problems with belt installation. Attached are the pics I sent CAA.

After some trial and error I determined that the belts that fit the 66 T-bird 390 application correctly are Duralast 15500 (large belt) and Duralast 15260 (small belt).

Cheers,
Attached Images
File Type: jpg FUELPUMPBELT.jpg (62.4 KB, 101 views)
File Type: jpg BELT1.jpg (78.5 KB, 100 views)
File Type: jpg BELT2.jpg (58.0 KB, 100 views)
__________________
Richard
1966 Thunderbird Hardtop,
390 with Edelbrock heads. Visit my restoration blog at hwythunder.com .
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  #25  
Old 04-29-2015, 10:18 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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I had that same problem. To solve it I went with a serpentine belt system from March Performance. It requires a "peanut" Sanden style compressor, and puts it on the passenger side under the alternator. It's a neat configuration, which lead me to make it even cleaner by routing the hoses as I did. The only downside is that I had to replace my power steering pump with one off a Chevy.
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  #26  
Old 04-29-2015, 10:22 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Here's my shield for where the tire hits. First I chalked the hoses to see exactly where the contact was. Then I made a shield out of 16 gauge steel, dry fit it, and once I liked the position cleaned it and painted it with self-etching. I'll undercoat most of this area later.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 5.jpg (67.0 KB, 92 views)
File Type: jpg 6.jpg (61.0 KB, 92 views)
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  #27  
Old 09-09-2016, 09:37 PM
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An update on this. The little Nostalgic Air evaporator cools off the cabin, but I have several issues with it.

1. Noise. Even on low the fan roars. I wish there was a lower setting.
2. Defrost. There is a single cable operated air valve to open up the defroster or close it. There is precious little flow up there even when fully open. Also, my conversion to turn to AC on along with the heat valve on doesn't dehumidify much. I think this is due to a single heat exchanger in the unit.
3. Air flow between the floor and panel can't be controlled. About 95% of the flow is jetted to the floor and wears a hole in my leg. Turn these off and you don't change much.
4. On longer trips the outside of the case gets so cold, and the system dehumidifies so poorly, that I have to use a towel on the passenger side floor to mop up all the water. Thank goodness for the nice rubber mats that I bought from Macs, otherwise my carpet would be ruined.
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  #28  
Old 09-09-2016, 09:45 PM
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In order to solve all this I bought a Vintage Air Gen IV kit. I talked with the manufacturer about my application, and he suggested that I get the kit for a 64-67 non-AC GTO. The factory non-AC controls are similar to mine, and therefore the conversion kit should work.

This evap box has separate heat and cool coils, so dehumidification shouldn't be a problem. The air controls are all microprocessor controlled servos like a modern car. There are separate valves for floor, vent and defrost. Supposedly infinite adjustable on all three plus on the fan speed.

The unit arrives next week.
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  #29  
Old 10-11-2016, 05:28 PM
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Unit is in. HUGH improvement. The fan is quiet, the air can be controlled to exactly where I want it. I'll be testing my defrosters this weekend.
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  #30  
Old 10-30-2016, 03:36 AM
stubbie stubbie is offline
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Steve just looking at installing my Vintage Air evap box. I'm also keeping part of the passenger fresh air intake. Where did you install the evap box centre or passenger side of dash?
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