Hello Gentlemen

[Guest]

Just wanted to take a moment and introduce myself. I am Harvey, a new T-Bird owner living in Spokane, WA. Just picked up my 1960 this past weekend from my uncle in Walla Walla. She sure is pretty, but still lots to do to make her "mine". Picked it up at his shop where she had been sitting for about 8 years. Started up ragged, but started. Noticed a fuel leak from the carb, and lots of smoking, so I changed the diaphragm in the carb, changed the oil, and did a coolant flush. She was a much happier car, if still a bit aggravated over being left to dust. Ran her around town a bit and on the highway to Oregon and back. Left Sunday and drove the 3 hours from Walla Walla to Spokane with my wife following with the trailer. She did pretty well all things considered. I am going to change the hoses and Vaccuum lines as well as changing the detente plate in the steering column. A bit rough shifting when everything is misaligned. Also as I put it on the trailer to tow up my mountain (still lots of snow at my house) I lost the brakes and had to e-brake it onto the trailer. Not sure if a line went, or just air, so I will take em apart and see whats what. Should be fun!(did I really just say working on this should be fun?!?!)...yeah, I guess I am excited. I am looking to have someone rebuild her 352 as well to change over to unleaded fuel and stop some lifter knocks and small leaks. Not sure how to go about finding a reputable shop for that since I want to make sure my heads (OE) stay and nothing is said to be "cracked" and beyond salvage...Any tips for that? Anyway, thanks for taking the time to read my little diatribe, and it is good to meet you all.

[Restifier52]

Hi Harvey! Welcome to the community. Yes these cars are challenging and fun. Good luck with all the jobs that are sure to come.

Rick

[Restifier52]

Oh and

As Dave (simplyconnected) has said before, Edelbrock makes aluminum heads and intake manifold for your engine for the which bring modern technology and big weight savings to the table. I wouldn't think you would pay much more for a pair of these heads than you would to have your original heads restored (to 1960 performance).

[Guest]

Not sure

My uncle said something about the set he has being rare and someone trying to buy/trade new heads plus $750 each for the old. Not sure what would make them so special though, as I have not been that far into the engine yet. I know he thinks they are great, but I need to get other opinions as I go. I want to try and do all of the basic things first to see where she is, then get down and dirty a bit. Would love any insight on various 352 set ups from 60. I had heard there were 3 types that year, but not sure how to tell them apart.

[tbird430]

Congrats on the "new ride".

There was only one 352cid offered in the 1960 Bird, there was an optional 430cid Lincoln engine.

I'd start with a master cylinder rebuild kit & the 3 new flex hoses (2-front 1-rear).


-Jon in TX.

[Guest]

Thanks

yes that is definitely on the short list. I am hoping to get most of it done in the next couple weekends (I have 3 day weekends every week) and see where it stands.

[simplyconnected]

Hi Harvey, and welcome to Squarebirds.org. Our site is loaded with a lot of talent including experienced mechanics, great vendors, and great resources for fellow restorers.

You have a great classic car and I hope you experience a lot of cruises this summer. It turns heads at every corner and when people see it, they smile.

Now let's get to the nitty gritty... What are your plans for this car? Do you want it to be 'pure bone stock'? An unaltered stock car is always worth the most money for resale.

OR, do you want to upgrade it to compete on today's roads with all the little cars that tend to squirt in front, and hit their brakes.? Squarebird brakes are drum brakes. They were substandard back then and they are even worse today. They pull to one side when cold, then to the other side when warm. They fade and take forever to recover when wet.

Did your car come with power brakes? If so, you can retrofit a new 8" two-stage booster/dual reservoir master cylinder combination that will dramatically improve your car's brakes. When properly done, it will feel just like a modern car. I'm in Detroit, in the 'Rust Belt'. When I replumbed my car's brake system, I used CUNIFER brake line, which is rustproof. CU=copper, NI=nickel, FE=iron. It comes in 25' coils and is VERY easy to invert-flare. I also used 3/16" brass IFF nuts.

Squarebirds were the first to use Ford's new 352 FE engines. A few years later, Ford improved the FE design and added the 390. All the newer FEs are backward compatible with the engine mounts and transmissions but the older FEs are not forward compatible. From a practical standpoint and for many other reasons, I would look for a used 390 and build it for your Squarebird. All FEs look identical from the outside.

Since 390s were so popular, their replacement parts are less expensive than 352 parts. Edelbrock offers aluminum heads that only fit 390 (and above) because the valves are large and they need the larger bore of a 390. To me, the aluminum heads are a great deal. They transfer heat MUCH better than cast iron and they come with all the goodies (viton seals, stainless valves, new springs, bronze bushings, hardened exh valve seats). Edelbrock also offers an aluminum intake manifold to match. Both of these gain a weight savings of at least 100-lbs., right up front where it makes the most difference.

My suggestion is to find an old 390 and have the block dipped and magnafluxed before it is machined. Buy aluminum heads and intake, a true roller timing set, and have the machine shop order hyper eutectic alloy pistons, moly rings, main and rod bearings, and brass freeze plugs. You can use all the 'Final Dress' parts off of your 352 (like timing cover w/fuel pump, water pump, distributor and all the brackets for belt-driven components). If you want to run modern oil, like all modern engines, you need to run a roller cam and roller lifters. Otherwise, flat tappet engines need an oil supplement with ZDDT (zinc and phosphorous). If you take your time and amass the parts using 'sale items', this overhaul could be cheaper than you think, using major brand parts. Also, you can have the new engine ready to go, and just drop it in and tune it up.

Hey, if you have any concerns or questions, let us know. - Dave

[Guest]

Congrats on the "new ride".

There was only one 352cid offered in the 1960 Bird, there was an optional 430cid Lincoln engine.

I'd start with a master cylinder rebuild kit & the 3 new flex hoses (2-front 1-rear).


-Jon in TX.

Yes, I am wondering if he did not buy one that was a 352 from a different car and had some different options. I know he is running a 650 Holley carb on it which does not seem to make sense with the standard 352 setup. Thoughts?

[tbird430]

Yes, I am wondering if he did not buy one that was a 352 from a different car and had some different options. I know he is running a 650 Holley carb on it which does not seem to make sense with the standard 352 setup. Thoughts?

There's no telling without casting #'s.

That car was built in 1959-60 & I'm sure many things have been "changed" since 2013....

-Jon in TX.

[DKheld]

There was the "G" code 352 but it had the 2 barrel. Only available for the export market. I have no idea if those engines had different heads but that's the only "unusual" 352 I can think of. (I've never actually seen a "G" code car though)

Wish that person wanted the heads off my engine - even though my car is bone stock original and as it came from the factory when my Dad bought it new (ok - minus the front disc to drum conversion and adding factory A/C) - I think I'd trade for new heads +$1500. Could buy about 5 gallons of premium gas with that and drive it a few days.

Eric

[Guest]

There was the "G" code 352 but it had the 2 barrel. Only available for the export market. I have no idea if those engines had different heads but that's the only "unusual" 352 I can think of. (I've never actually seen a "G" code car though)

Wish that person wanted the heads off my engine - even though my car is bone stock original and as it came from the factory when my Dad bought it new (ok - minus the front disc to drum conversion and adding factory A/C) - I think I'd trade for new heads +$1500. Could buy about 5 gallons of premium gas with that and drive it a few days.

Eric

I know, sounded crazy to me that you would choose NOT to take that. Only thing I can think of is that it is a different 352 (perhaps an early version of a performance head?) but even that seems like an over the top price. I am going to beat around on it this weekend if I can get it up my road with my cousins F350 Diesel pulling it. Depends on how much snow melt I get. I need to at minimum re-do the brakes to get them functional for road tests.

[Guest]

Got it up the road!

Wish I had posi-traction for getting over the bit of slush to the garage, but whatever...got it into the garage. Changed oil again, pulled master cylinder and rebuilt it, bled brakes, ran it a bit. Seemed to do the trick, thankfully no leaking from the lines or drum cylinders. Changed plugs then ran out of time. Need to check the coil and plug wires. Engine also sounds like it has a sticking valve, but that could just be from not being ran. Will look more into it this weekend.

[tbird430]

Maybe add a can of Marvels Mystery oil to the crankcase. Then change the oil & filter after 25 miles of driving?

I would recommend you replace the 3 flex brake hoses, then buy a new brake hardware (spring kit). This would be a great time to add the 1961 style T-Bird self brake adjusters too.

-Jon in TX.

[Guest]

I am not sure what is in there now. The heads are not uncommon(not sure what the guy was talking about to my uncle regarding the heads unless he thought this was a "mystical" 360 HP 352, but those came with a Ford Aluminum intake and were not offered on the T-bird....but I digress) , but look to be from a 61-63 390. Is the firing order the same on 352 and 390 FE motors? I am going to redo the entire brake system as one of my first projects. What identifies the power brake system. I know my master cylinder connects to the vacuum booster...would that mean it does not have power brakes? the brake pedal says power brake, but I am not sure it is original...

[simplyconnected]

...Is the firing order the same on 352 and 390 FE motors?

Yes. Some 352's and 390's share the same factory cam. The cam determines the firing order (and direction of rotation).

...I am going to redo the entire brake system as one of my first projects.

This is a great project that doesn't require a lot of experience. After doing a few IFF (inverted flare fittings) the rest come like second nature. Put some music on and take your time. Follow all the steps, and you'll be good.

In Detroit, our brake lines rust through. I just got done doing my '98 Escort (in the snow). We use Cunifer brake line because it never rusts. The alloy makes flaring easy, like butter; Cu=copper, Ni=nickel, Fe=iron. Cunifer is used on many high end European cars from the factory. It's also expensive but what isn't? Bending is done with a simple pair of hand-held brake line pliers. I have never kinked a bend yet.

For an old brake system I waste no time by cutting the old line loose using diagonal wire cutters at the fittings. Brake hoses are so rusted to the IFF nut, they never come apart. Just pull the mounting clip and snip the steel line.

I also use brass 3/8"-24 IFF nuts for 3/16" brake line. Brass works best for future maintenance. The line cannot rust and neither can the nuts.

...What identifies the power brake system. I know my master cylinder connects to the vacuum booster...would that mean it does not have power brakes? the brake pedal says power brake, but I am not sure it is original...

If you have a factory power booster on your Squarebird, you have power DRUM brakes. If you are going to retrofit front DISK brakes, you will need a larger power booster. Save your firewall bracket. - Dave