Guidance on front end suspension

[davidmij]

Greetings all!

I'm looking to replace (most) of the front end suspension on my 59 T-bird. I replaced the wheel bearings and greased the ball joints when I did the front disc brakes. I also replaced the stabilizer rubber and connections at the lower arm.

This coming Fall when I pull the motor to build my 410 stroker I want to replace all the rubber bushings and ball joints. Can anyone tell me a good source for these parts? I'd also like to know if there is anyway to make the front end a little tighter, be it add on parts (anti sway tricks etc) or stock hardware. I'm not worried about the rear suspension - I had the leaf springs retensioned and added an extra leaf when I re-did the axle and 3rd member.

I'd also like to know how to tell if the springs are OK. Can they be re-tensioned, or do they have to be replaced?
I've already replaced all the shocks.

thx in advance, Dave J

[simplyconnected]

I think you're taking about re-arcing your springs. That process requires just about the same work as a new spring set. After all, new springs are arced before heat treat. The difference in quality is in the heat treat process. Coil springs start as pre-cut red-hot round stock, fed into a turning mandrel. The steel follows the grooves. As soon as the end snaps clear, the coil expands and a kicker pushes it off the mandrel and into an oil bath, and it's ready to start over again. It's fast; hundreds per hour, so there is no sense in re-doing old coil springs.
Wanna make your suspension tighter? Add a rear sway bar and make your front at least 1-1/8" dia. My Mustang GT has a heavier bar than that and it's a lot lighter car. Do that and your T-bird will be flat around corners.

Coil springs are about $200/pair new. Get them.

Front end rubber is coming from India and some from Communist China, these days. Same story with ball joints. All the vendors sell bushings for about $8/ea. Some folks like the convenience of buying in kits (like Kantor offers). I think they throw things in you don't need so I buy from places like Mac's, Dennis-Carpenter, Obsolete, Rock Auto and tee-bird.com. - Dave

[Tbird1044]

I looked at a car the other day and the owner mentioned how much better the car handled after adding the sway bar. I said I already have a front sway bar on my car. When I looked at his, it appeared to be at least 1" in dia. and I thought that looked pretty heavy duty. Then when I went home, I looked at my sway bar and it appears to be about 3/4" in dia. Where are you guys coming up with these beefier sway bars and bushings?

[YellowRose]

Guidance on front end suspension

Heavy duty sway bars 1-1/8" are available from The Bird Nest, other Tbird parts houses, and I think Lance Herrington of Thunderbirds Southwest has them also. They also have the bushings, as I recall.

http://www.thunderbirdsouthwest.com/

[davidmij]

Great info, thanks a bunch. I'll be going to those heavy front springs and see if I can find and/or figure out how to add some to the rear.

thx!

[Dakota Boy]

For the front; get a pair of new coil springs and one of those "heavy-duty" sway bar kits. And replace those control arm bushings.

I was looking at a catalog from Concours Parts yesterday, and happened to notice that they have a REAR sway bar kit for the 59/60 models. I dont recall seeing rear sway bar kits in my other T-bird catalogs, but then I couldve just overlooked it. Diameter of the rear bar was listed at 1". And for Tbird1044 above, the Front kits are 1 1/8" diameter.

I still have the original sway bar on my car, and it is pretty skinny.

[YellowRose]

Guidance on front end suspension

Concours is not the only Tbird parts house that sells the rear sway bar kit. The Bird Nest does also, only theirs is the same size as the front sway bar kit, 1-1/8". I notice on their website, http://www.tbirdparts.com that they state that you MUST install the heavy duty front sway bar (1-1/8") BEFORE the rear heavy duty sway bar kit can be added... Page 25 of the Bird Nest catalog lists the heavy duty sway bars and bushings for the '58 thru '66 Tbirds.

[partsetal]

Another thing you might consider is replacing your idler arm bushings with a kit that contains ball bearings. This tightens up the steering considerably. They appear on ebay occasionally and have not been made for some time.
Carl

[63-4drpost]

Napa

got all the ball joints and bushings for my 1960 T-Bird from NAPA>when you do it, take the control arms off the car and replace the parts.
I put a rack and pinion from a 2000 Taurus in my Bird. Works okay but now it puts a whole new meaning to the term "bump-steer". I will get it figured out some day, if I last that long.

[simplyconnected]

Henry, my hat comes off to you, my friend. Most folks dream of tackling this job as it requires true fabrication. I love it. Not only does the R&P take all the slop out of your steering but the parts are readily available and you can use a common Mustang pump to power it. Your new gear is not a 'helper' cylinder, but a wonderful power steering system just like modern cars have.

I used a Chevy rack in our '59 Galaxie and again, I used a 1990 Mustang pump. All the fittings are common AN (Aeronautical and Navy) fittings. This heavy car came with manual steering, but not any more... It's one of the best improvements I did and it makes cruising parking lots effortless and fun.

I don't know if you have disk brakes, but I highly recommend it. The combination of power rack and pinion with power disk brakes really improves stopping and handling. No more 'hunting back and forth' with the steering wheel while going straight, down the road, and no more pulling or fade when you step on the brake.

I know we're departing from 'original' but still, this change improves road-ability and safety of your car. It also makes it more fun to drive. - Dave