I will be putting a new oil pump and screen in there. Is there a need to fill those with oil somehow before installing or the new oil pump will suck the oil without any problems?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Oil pump & screen removal
Collapse
X
-
-
the RTV stuff is really awesome! You appreciate it the next time you remove the pan and find how well it is glued on to the block.
Make sure and give it 24 hours to cure before you pour oil in and fire up the motor.
To get the pan back on you may need to strategically turn the crank by hand to get the counterweights past the baffle and so on.
Someone mentioned priming the pump, a good idea! Once you have the pump and oil in, there are two schools of thought:
a) turn the pump with a drill by removing the distributor b) crank the motor over with the coil disconnected until the oil pressure light goes off. A variation on b) is to remove the spark plugs for easier cranking.
Your stuff looks really clean! If you look at the photos of my engine job (link at bottom), my screen represents a worst case scenario. Near clogged.
I believe any old car should have an oil pressure gauge so you know what's going on. More information always better than less.
Good job!
John1958 Hardtop
#8452 TBird Registry
http://tbird.info/registry/DataSheet...r~equals~8452)
photo: http://www.squarebirds.org/users/joh...d_June2009.jpg
history:
http://www.squarebirds.org/users/johng/OCC.htmComment
-
Clean the old screen and it will be just as good as a new one. At the factory, we don't prime new oil pumps. Their tolerances are tight enough to draw oil up by themselves. We do run the engines without firing the spark plugs. We call this 'cold testing'. "Hot test" follows if everything is ok.
Your oil pump drive shaft is 1/4" hex. I would attach a 1/4" socket with long extension and run a drill motor in reverse to run the pump before starting the engine. This will draw fresh oil from the pan, through your oil system so that all your components are wet. - Dave
EDIT: I just saw John's post and I agree with everything he suggests. Pictures and a mechanical gauge are very important.Member, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
-
• put the Permatex on both sides of the gasket, let it cure
• clean the connecting parts of the oil pan and block from oil and dust
• put the Permatex layer to both oil pan and the block?
• let it cure
• put the oil pan with the gasket on the block
Is that it?Comment
-
Also, should I clean the valve springs and other parts under the valve covers anyhow?
I have new rubber valve cover gaskets - is that enough or any other kind of sealant is suitable?Comment
-
Not sure I understand the 'thin layer of sealer' part. Does it mean:
• put the Permatex on both sides of the gasket, let it cure
• clean the connecting parts of the oil pan and block from oil and dust
• put the Permatex layer to both oil pan and the block?
• let it cure
• put the oil pan with the gasket on the block
Is that it?
JohnJohn Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator
Thunderbird Registry #36223
jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695
https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htmComment
-
a) do I understand it right that the spring washer on the oil pump drive shaft needs to be positioned towards/closer to the distributor? When I took the stuff from the car, it was positioned on the side / closer to the oil pump. But from what I've read in the shop manual (if I understood it correctly), it should be positioned closer to the distributor (and that's the way I put it finally)
b) after installing the oil pan back, I put 4,5 litres (4,75 quarts) of oil until reaching the 'full' mark on the dipstick. I would expect to put a little more to a system that was completely drained out. Just need your opinion from you if you think this volume of new oil is okComment
-
Jiri, you are correct on all points. The drive shaft washer is really a 'keeper'. It normally does not touch anything. When installed correctly, it is close to the top hole in your block casting so if you ever pull the distributor out, the driveshaft will stay in the pump and separate at the hex on the bottom of your distributor shaft. If the keeper were too far down the shaft and you pull the dizzy, the shaft might pull out of the pump, causing all kinds of extra unnecessary bottom-end work.
So, you did it right.
Keep your oil level to the top of the dipstick mark. If you change to a new oil filter, that will require more oil to maintain that dipstick mark.
Some folks who do high speed traveling put 'extra' oil in because FE engines tend to leave too much at the top. In other words, oil doesn't drain back down to the oil pan fast enough, leaving at least a quart in the rocker areas. This would be acceptable if your oil level is at the top of the mark but NOT acceptable if the level is already at the bottom of your mark when the engine starts.
Under normal driving circumstances, you should keep the level at the top of the dip stick mark. If you are down 1/2 quart, you can put a whole quart in. It's ok. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
-
4,75 quarts I count including the oil filter change - I always fill the oil filter with a new oil before installing.Last edited by Rock&Roll Firebird; August 31, 2014, 05:39 AM.Comment
-
You can fill the filter but you can never get all the air out. That happens when the oil pump fills it.
The hash marks on your dipstick represent ONE US QUART. Down a half PLUS a quart.Member, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
-
Comment
-
I took the advice from Dave and removed my oil pan and pickup. No surprises, thankfully. Just a little sludge in the bottom, but the screen looks clean.
Would it be wise to replace the oil pump at this time as additional insurance?
Without this forum and great advice from you guys, I would have never even thought about doing this.
I already have the car up on stands for front and rear suspension/brake overhaul, so it did not take long at all.
Thanks!
This is a good thing. I strongly urge all of our members to clean out their oil pan and pickup screen on their Squarebird because it's very cheap insurance. Truth be told, many of our members have already done it and they swear this has saved their engine from early major overhaul. I agree. There is only one way to find out what lives on the bottom of your oil pan. Also know that your oil pump munches everything it picks up before it gets to the filter. - DaveAttached FilesTodd Gilroy
1960 Tbird Convertible
Thunderbird Registry #54651Comment
-
John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator
Thunderbird Registry #36223
jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695
https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htmComment
-
Your oil pan looks exceptionally good considering it started with NON-detergent oil fifty some years ago. It almost looks like the pan had been cleaned in years gone by.
I'm with John... a new oil pump is wise and so is a new intermediate shaft.
Just 'to see', open the four bottom bolts, take the plate off and inspect the rotors. You will see what your pump has been munching on by any witness marks embedded in the rotors. The Shop Manual has feeler gauge tolerances for determining good or bad pump rotors. Even with a little wear, I would change the pump.
Now that your pan is clean and you use a steady diet of detergent oil, it should stay that way. Good job!Member, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
-
Before you put the oil pan back on put a straight edge along the flange. You want to make sure the bolt holes aren't bent from overtightening. This will insure that your new gasket doesn't leak. If they stick up put the flange on a piece of metal and hammer them flat.
JohnJohn Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator
Thunderbird Registry #36223
jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695
https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htmComment
Comment