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  #11  
Old 12-02-2010, 01:57 AM
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byersmtrco byersmtrco is offline
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Who in Milpitas? I'm right by there (go by it every day) I live in SJ & work in Fremont.



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Originally Posted by 60 T-Bird View Post
I found a guy in Milpitas, Ca. with a pile of new headers he rescued from a guy closing a business. He had a set off a 390. I bought them in an attempt to make my own shorty set for my 60. I have a fab shop here at the house. Wish me luck...I don't want those logs either....
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  #12  
Old 12-02-2010, 03:08 AM
gaffney1951 gaffney1951 is offline
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Default FPA makes a set of shorties ...

for the Squarebirds. 13/4" tubes. Mike
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2010, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnG View Post
Dave, you advocate for having the exhaust manifolds planed, leave the heads alone, and no gaskets?..
Yes, John. Heads are water cooled and warp far less than exhaust manifolds. Heads still warp, but not nearly as much.

When overhauling an engine, ALL mating surfaces should be 'skinned', even if it is just to take out water pits. Old parts are 'seasoned' and when trued, they should last longer than new parts.

Ever unscrew an old exhaust manifold bolt? The exposed part is really messed up. The portion that enters the head is like new, all the way in. It's a sign of less heat, so less corrosion. But the bolt-heads are so messed up, it's hard to grab-hold of them to turn. If they were bottomed-out, the bolt will usually break flush with the cylinder head because the steel is annealed (but not the threaded portion inside the head). I've been experimenting with 3/8" stainless steel socket head cap screws. I think they might corrode less than carbon steel, and the heads are small for cramped wrenching. So far, so good. - Dave
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  #14  
Old 12-03-2010, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
I've been experimenting with 3/8" stainless steel socket head cap screws. I think they might corrode less than carbon steel, and the heads are small for cramped wrenching. So far, so good. - Dave
I use them on my F100, on my '66 Thunderbird I use the factory steel bolts, on both vehicles (and most others I've owned) I put Kopper-Kote anti-seize on th ebolt threads, the don't seize in the heads then.

And on exhausts with studs instead of bolts I use brass nuts. (For the same reason)
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  #15  
Old 12-03-2010, 01:06 AM
60 T-Bird 60 T-Bird is offline
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Originally Posted by byersmtrco View Post
Who in Milpitas? I'm right by there (go by it every day) I live in SJ & work in Fremont.

He was on craigslist. I got the last FE set. The rest are Ford small black, dodge and chev.
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  #16  
Old 12-03-2010, 05:05 PM
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Default Manifolds off

I finally got the manifolds loose the No Blow gaskets where broken I could see where the thing was leaking. these gaskets where cracked in two or three places. I guess this is why it leaked so bad. My copper gaskets came today. I also bought three different bolt types. I have stainless steel, grade 5 and grade 8. Which one would you all use, I also have star washers and lock washers. I don't want to use them original finger washers. It took me an hour to get one of those finger washers off. Would it work if I use star washers and lock tight?

manifolds are true I think the gaskets just failed.
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  #17  
Old 12-03-2010, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by birdbrain View Post
I finally got the manifolds loose ....
manifolds are true I think ...
Be sure to check the manifold surfaces with a flat edge such as a carpenter's square or a level. Best be sure to be sure, as don't imagine you wanna be doin' this excercise again too soon.
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  #18  
Old 12-03-2010, 06:28 PM
frank58 frank58 is offline
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Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
I've been experimenting with 3/8" stainless steel socket head cap screws.
Dave, (and all) be aware that there are different types of stainless steel. the most common is 300 series stainless which is not the best thing to use. they are much softer than grade 8 or even grade 5 for that matter. I have been in the aerospace fastener manufacturing business for (too) many years , the best type of stainless to use is called A-286. it is high strength and made for high temperature applications which makes it ideal for exhaust manifolds. a lot of the newer cars also use A-286 studs as well. and btw, socket caps are great .
finally something I know about that I can contribute.
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  #19  
Old 12-03-2010, 07:40 PM
Ca58tbird Ca58tbird is offline
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...the best type of stainless to use is called A-286. it is high strength and made for high temperature applications which makes it ideal for exhaust manifolds. ...
I was curious as to the cost of A-286 SS so went to McMaster-Carr website cause they typically have the best price on bulk fasteners. Wow found that just one of the 2" x 5/16" x 18tpi was $11.20 ea. Now that's gotta be one ******* bolt! The pentagon must buy these babies by the boat load.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#a286-super-...screws/=9zqqsh
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  #20  
Old 12-03-2010, 09:30 PM
60 T-Bird 60 T-Bird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ca58tbird View Post
I was curious as to the cost of A-286 SS so went to McMaster-Carr website cause they typically have the best price on bulk fasteners. Wow found that just one of the 2" x 5/16" x 18tpi was $11.20 ea. Now that's gotta be one ******* bolt! The pentagon must buy these babies by the boat load.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#a286-super-...screws/=9zqqsh
Being a machinist for over 30 years and working in the aerospace and robotics industry, I would be more apt to go with grade 8 studs and bronze nuts. You can heat the bronze nuts with as little heat as a propane torch and they will come loose. JMTCW
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