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I went back on the dash board.
On the ignition (key) I replaced the socket with one Carl sent me. Those are metal and hold much better. The old ones (all plastic except 2 metal tabs) did not hold for more than a few seconds.
On the Oil Pressure. I found the oil filter has a wire "tube" but I had a 2 wires coming to the bulb on the other end. Then I realised (at last) that the previous owner installed some instruments under the dash where the "tube" goes. So it is normal that I had no red light with contact on. However I had a + but - is not grounded. I will leave a burnt off bulb in the socket.
Something else that appeared is that I have a suction noise and of course wipers do not function. I did not found where the wiper circuit hose has been removed. I can not see it behind the dash. Where can I look? I would suppose it may be the hose going to the washer button on the left of the dashboard??
Last thing, my "light" pull button is not consistent. When you turn it light goes up, stops, goes to maximum and then off so you have to turn it bak a bit to get lights on again.
How do you remove the switch to give it a good cleaning-de-rusting?
Re the light switch, I used a drop of ACF-50 and it works fine now. I use this product usually to protect against humidity, I coat the engine bay and various areas to ease cleaning. Easy to find as I sell it in my own shop !
Not selling it for a long time I still have not explored all its capabilities and it did not came to mind at first.
I highly recomment it for a klot of applications. You may find it locally.
As for the wipers hose, I found the one going from the washer button to the motor and it seems to be connected. Beside it was way behind the dash and I don't think I disturbed it.
So remain the question, where does hte sction noise comes from.
To say the least I am reluctant to gain access to the motor again...
You have three hoses on the washer switch. One comes from the T connector that goes to the wiper motor and has engine vacuum, one goes back to the wiper motor and one goes to the washer pump. If either of those three hoses are broken or disconnected or the switch itself is leaking you will hear the suction noise. Do you still have the washer pump? It should be attached to the generator. Most of them are long gone.
I checked the hoses from the T connector by blowing in them and they were fine.
I checked with a camera the connections to the motor and they seem to be ok. I added a clamp to the main hose but can't remember what I did on the one going to the switch and can not reach it with my camera. I can just see it goes toward the motor and it does not move when I pull on it.
I checked the 3 connections on the switch and one was loose and felt when pulling on the switch. I replaced it on the switch and the noise disappeared but when I removed the hose the noise did not came back so it is probably the hose going to the removed pump and something must be plugged somewhere.
I should have blown in the other hoses from the switch but didn't so far.
Then the noise came back. I launched the wipers and finally noise disappeared after a while.
Eash time I re-start the engine the noise is back. It disappear when I shake gently one of the hose. I would say the one going to the motor. Then goes fine and come back with next start.
After several starts it was better and better with the noise lasting less and less. But definitively not a solution.
Either the hose is not well locked on the engine or it is porous or there is a mid length connectiuon/repair hat leaks. The noise started when I removed the instruments and shook everything around moving the bulbs ...
I should have plugged the port on the motor when I took the motor off.
I did it and it does nothing.
As I said, the strange thing is that the switch is off and the 3 hoses left open and it makes no difference.
Again this morning; Big suction noise that stops after 1-2 minutes. I fear something in the motor is not air tight and after some suction builds up it works.
It all started with the heat wave we had 2 weeks ago and that continues. Maybe something dried.
Today the wiper motor fell on my bench.
I put some suction on it with a pump and reproduced the noise so it's well the motor. I was not sure where it was coming from on the motor but when I opened the top valve I noticed the black plastic slide is not flat. I am wondering about having a sheet of metal between the slide and the cover to increase the pressure from the cover on the slide.
EDIT
I added a small plastic tab between the 2 plastic parts and bent a bit the V shape flat spring. Wondering if I put the spring wrong before.
I put it with the point of the V toward the top with the branches pushing the ends of the slide.
Maybe pushing on the center of the slide would be better.
I also bent the spring a little bit just in case.
Made a rapid reassembly of the motor and sure enough my pump did not produced any noise, just normal movement of the motor.
Just making a wrench so I can tighten enough the special nuts on the motor.
Any idea about the importance and way the spring goes?
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The spring actually goes on top of the grey slide under the cover. Not between the 2 slides !
I opened the motor and removed some brake fluid I used earlier for the "repair" and some extra grease.
I put everything back, it works fine now but I noticed when the motor is off (as if you don't use the wipers) there is a suction noise. I don't take it as normal so I still have something wrong. I will re open it later.
I assume that when it's off, the air goes through the lower port (air intake) and goes directly in the car's engine without going in the motor's body. I may have misplaced something inside.
Will re open it later.
EDIT
Re-opened, cleaned thoroughly everything, blowing with compressor on all openings. Will make a new paper gasket on the small intake cover as it is damaged after too many removals.
Now as everything is clean it seems to work better. Will give a try when I can start the engine in a couple of days to validate the repair in actual conditions before I put everything back in place.
Hope that this can help somebody one day but for now any thoughts are welcome.
Some months ago I had the exhaust manifolds machined flat and re-installed them using paste instead of a gasket as advised on this thread.
I had the car running a bit over the last few months but today it ran for more than 1 hour as I was cleaning the cooling circuit.
And the exhaust manifold leaks again from the same place (right bank, rear clinder #4).
I am not sure I used the right paste. The one I used dried with heat and the excess I see outside the manifold is more like plaster now that is is cured. I am wondering if I didn't get just a paste that you use to "glue" 2 exhaust pipes together?
Is there different kind of exhaust pastes?
Also is it really the right way to go without using gaskets sold by several vendors. I know I asked before and got replies that paste was the way to go but a good friend that use classic cars and built some told me that the exhaust might handle better the dimensions variations due to heat even though the head and manifolds are both made of same material?
Also when I removed and re-installed the parts, the engine was lift up and some bits were removed.
Is it possible to access all the bolts with everything in place. Thje engine was still yoo hot so I just tried with a couple of wrenches but it seems to be ... challenging to do.
The factory installed them with no gaskets and no paste. If they are leaking you need to have the manifolds surfaced to make them flat. They should be installed metal to metal. Neither paste nor gaskets will seal if the surface is not flat. Believe me I've tried both.
I did not checked them because, as said, I had them machined flat right away.
The concern now is, as the leak is at the same place, that I may have damage on the head.
Again how tricky is it to remove and replace them with engine in place?
The heads are not difficult to remove once the intake manifold is off. You can remove them with or without the exhaust manifolds attached. I used Permatex red gasket maker which is recommended for exhaust. However it did not last very long and started leaking again. After that I had the manifolds surfaced, installed them metal to metal and had no further leaks.
I don't plan to take off the heads so far !
I had the manifold off just now. I noticed leaks almost on every cylinder. Maybe not leaks all the way out (yet?) so I cleaned the heads and the manifold. The latter came out quite clean as it has been machined.
I am wondering is the head is "good enough". Pictured are the 2 worst. Other 2 are nice. But the one that had a leak is not one of those 2 pictured here !
Shall I try like this and see what happen. Metal to metal...
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