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My 62 wont turn over! It cranks, the gas squirts but it just wont start! I replaced the coil but still no go. Any suggestions?
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Hi Alfred,
Welcome to the Forum.
How long has it been sitting? When was the last time it started OK?
Were you able to get any spark from the boots to the spark plugs?
I'm not well versed on the 62s but this might help to get you started. It has to do with 62s.
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Your question is too vague.
Jim is asking if your fluids are fresh, especially your gas.
Do you have a volt/ohm meter? Harbor Freight sells them for five bucks.
Before you changed coils, did you check for voltage at the coil + with the key "on"? How about when the key is in "Start"?
Do your plugs throw a spark? What color is it?
Troubleshooting is easy if you follow the steps from the beginning to the end. Don't get sidetracked. Don't let anything divert your attention. Use all your senses.
Do you smell gas? Does it smell like varnish?
If you get spark, ...well, let's cross that bridge when we come to it. - Dave
EDIT: YES, Jim! 1962 Ford THUNDERBIRD "Midwest Bikini Team" wall poster:Last edited by simplyconnected; April 15, 2012, 11:23 PM.Member, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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Won't start ...
Check to see if you have power to the coil when cranking for starters, have someone crank it over while you check it with a meter. No or low voltage would point to bad ignition switch or loose connection/bad wire. I've seen more than one instance of a new coil being bad, so check it for continuity and to see if it is shorted to the case. Next I would pull the distributor cap and make sure your points are opening and closing and gap is correct and there is fire at the points. Check condition of cap, rotor, and points and condenser. Also check to make sure the distributor shaft is turning and that there isn't excessive play in the shaft (shaft doesn't turn means sheared dist gear pin). If everything is good at that point pull a plug and ground it some where on the engine and check for spark at the plug. If no spark at plug check wires for proper resistance and condition of plugs. I know that's a lot to check and I'm sure there are a few I missed, but that's the joy of diagnostic detective work. Here's hoping you get it on the first thing you check. MikeComment
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Carb is getting fuel, went ahead and replaced the rotor and cap but still no fire. With key ON coil + shows 6v and coil- shows 0.4v. i pulled the coil wire from the distributor and noticed a slight spark when the key was turned to ON but no spark when attempting to start it. I also pulled a plug and grounded to engine while starting and still no spark. I will be returning the coil for a new one to rule it out of the problem. Still stumped
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Maybe go back to Mike's list and check points and condenser. Along with the plate in the dizzy and the shaft.Comment
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New coil did not help. Doesnt appear to spark. The coil is getting power though. Could the solenoid be suspect?Comment
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what about the ignition switch?Comment
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The ignition switch would be something to check after you check the points and condenser.
How long has this been sitting or has it been running fine and this just happened?Comment
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If the coil is getting a supply of electricity while the motor is cranking over I doubt that would be the problem.
So, try this:
What happens when you pull the No1 spark-plug, hook it back up to the plug lead (and make sure it is well earthed) then crank the motor over? any spark at the plug?
And while you've got the plug out, screw-up a wad of paper, about the same diameter as the threaded part of the spark-plug, push it into the spark-plug hole on the cylinder head (but not TOO hard!) and crank 'er over.
Does the wad of paper get blown out just as the plug (hopefully!) sparks?
And does the wad getting blown out coincide with the timing mark on the bottom pulley??
Obviously you'll really need a helper for most of the above.A Thunderbirder from the Land of the Long White Cloud.Comment
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Congratulations on a successful conversion. So, we know it will work after you over this little bump. That is good.
I suppose you have checked all the wiring to ensure nothing has come loose. If so, let's go back to the points/condenser, dizzy plate and shaft. Any luck with those?
Oh, 1-wire or 3 wire and did you use a kit or did someone help you with it. New 3G or used?Comment
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no luck with the points and condenser, i had an extra set and tried them with no luck. I need to still do like scumdog suggested and check the number 1 for spark and compression. All along i had been looking at #5 for spark
As for the alternator i used a 3 wire 3g alternator used from a 98 mustang. I did the majority of my homework for the swap but had some experienced help from a member here on the site.Last edited by Mexiamericano; April 16, 2012, 07:14 PM.Comment
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No spark to #1 after using 2 different grounds,but thankfully the paper towel was blown out! Where does that leave me? up ****s creek? Hopefully not, i plan to purchase new plugs, wires, ignition switch and pertronix ignitor. Would this help?Comment
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