New Tbird - Off To A Bad Start-help

[jackbird60]

Hi All!

I Am The Guy That Bought That Decent Looking Biege 66 Convt. (oh Well!)

It Had Some Carb Problems Which I Expected. Choke Parts Not Hooked Up Right, Bad Gas Etc. Took Top Of Carb Off & Clean It, Clean Needles Etc. After That It Idle Good But Sometimes Dies When I Drove It. Nieghbor Said He Can Smell The Bad Gas In There, So I Fill It Up.

Very Afraid To Take It Any Further Than 2 Blks From My House , Because I Was Just Towed Last Night Because The Carburetor Flooded, Hense The Cleaning Steps Above. It's Not Flooding Anymore But Did Die Out. Should I Just Keep Runing It Everyday In My Driveway To Ge That Bad Gas Purged. I Now Have A Full Tank. I Put In 10 Gallon 93 Octane And A Bit Of Sea Foam In The Tank.

Anyway, the Big Problem Is When I Put It In Reverse, She Bangs. Didn't Notice That Before, And Idle Seems Normal. Are C4-- Noted For This Kind Of Problem?

What I Am I Looking At Here, A Rebuilt Trans. Band Adjustments I Hope. I Believe It's A Cruise-o-matic.


Jack

[simplyconnected]

A few questions, Jack:
* If you knew you had old/bad gas, why would you dilute it? All that crap is still in your fuel tank and has NO WAY to get out because the pickup in your tank has a fine mesh. Significant rust loads that mesh. When you shut down, backwash clears it again (until next time). Drain and drop the tank, bring it outside into open air, and wash all the junk out with a garden hose. You're in Chicagoland; all your gas is (E-10) gasohol. If you don't get all the water out, the gas will suck it up and all the water will soon be gone.
* Do you use a fuel filter between the pump and carb?
Has the trans fluid ever been changed? Cruise-O-Matic's are great transmissions. They have external adjustments. You might want to bring the car to a trans place, let them change the filter & fluid, and adjust it properly.

Do some regular-scheduled maintenance:
* Change your oils (all of them).
* Change your DOT-3 brake fluid. (It was clear when it went in, what color is it now?)
* Maintain proper rear-end 'dope' level. I would run the car and let the gear oil get plenty warm, then drain it and replace with fresh, major brand, 90W gear oil. It comes in quart plastic bottles with a nozzle that stick into the pumpkin hole. Buy two quarts.

Any car fifty years old, will have these issues. After maintaining your Thunderbird, DRIVE IT. Run at least a few tankfulls out. I hope you take my suggestions because downtown Naperville would love to see your car, often. - Dave

[jackbird60]

Hi Dave,

Can Pouring De-icer Suck Some Of The Water Out Of The Gas? Now That I Got A Full Tank It Would Be Hard To Drain It All.

Dave I Thought The Good Gas With Bad Would Dilute It, Guess Not.

Maybe I Should Have A Gas Station Do The Tank Work. My Garage Is Pretty Tight And I Never Did That. I Did Replace A Fuel Pump & Sender In My Sonata.

Or Could I Siphion It Out Once It Get Half Way I Guess.

I Take Your Other Suggestions As Well. I Guess I Am Just So Tire Messing With The Carb And Change The Oil. The Carb Is An Original 4100 Autolite With The Tag. The Car Is A Survivor, I Knew That Going In, So, I Shouldn't Be Surprised But In A Way I Am. I Should No Better, I Am Not New To The Classic Cars.

Trans Will Be My Next Thing. Any Trans Shops Around Naperville That You Trust To Adjust The Bands Etc? I'll Do The Change Of Fluid Etc.

I ;ll Take A Few Days To Relax.

Thanks Jack

[Guest]

I think after NOV. 66 they went to C'6'S. Check the modulater vacumm line. That will make it run bad to. Cruiso's didn't have a vac line>

[RustyNCa]

Seems like one of my 65s had a drain on the tank that I used to drain out the bad gas? Did 66 still have one.

I remember pulling a drain plug and draining out the fuel, memory tells me it was the boys 65, but I could be mixing it up with one of the other cars

His had bad gas and rust in the tank, we replaced the fuel pickup, couldn't get the tank off, so just drained the tank, replaced the pickup and run a filter before the fuel pump.

Haven't had a problem with debris in the filter at all, and it is his daily driver at this point.

His trans is the COM, doesn't bang going into reverse, but won't backup on a grade.

[simplyconnected]

Jack, don't mess around by adding more money (and useless additives, like DRY GAS, which is really alcohol) to your tank of contaminated gas. Drain it. Use it in your lawnmower, leafblower, snowblower, weedwhacker, etc. When you see what comes out of your tank, I guarantee you will discard it.

Your tank may have a drain plug in the corner, so you won't have to siphon the gas out. I pulled FIVE HEAPING HANDFULLS of rust out of my '55 Ford's gas tank. I bought a new tank and cut the old tank open. I'm not surprised at anything any more.

I'm a Chicago Boy born in Oak Park, at Austin (6000W) & Chicago (800N). I strongly urge you to have all your car repairs done in INDIANA (or Wisconsin). They have much better prices and the mechanics are just as good. No, I never lived in IN or WI. Yes, it's worth the 1/2-hr drive for your transmission. Call around for prices.

Above all, get a-hold of an old-timer who knows old transmissions. He'll know exactly what to do and he'll be done in no time. Part of this job is draining old tranny fluid. Let him do that, and let him guarantee his work (just in case you start leaking). You probably don't need a flush, but you certainly need a change.

You might save a little money by getting the trans filter kit (including the gasket). There are a few different gasket sizes, depending on which COM you have. You might need to measure, or leave it up to the old-timer mechanic. He will know. - Dave

[Guest]

Hey Jack,
I also would go with Dave's advise! I had the same thing happen to my wife's '99 F-150. It ruined the fuel pump in the gas tank.
Just make sure you do it outside, away from any sparks or open flames! This old gas will still burn!!!
Also I would install a inline filter close to the fuel pump. I done this on Christine and have not had any more trouble.
Keep us posted!
Richard D. Hord

[jackbird60]

Small World Dave, I Grew Up Around Austin & North Ave. Holy Cow. Went To St.angela Grammar School. Use To Ride By Bike As A Kid To Sears On North And Harlem. Then If I Had Any Money I Go To Johnny Beef On North Ave. Of Course Kiddie Land Was On 1st & North And Almost Across The Street Skips!

Take Care!

Jack

[jackbird60]

HI, I'LL CHECK THAT TRANS. I REMEMBER READING THAT FORD DID SWITCH TO THE C-6 LATER ON IN THE YEAR. MY VIN SHOW THE BUILD NUMBER BUT THAT'S NOT EXACTLY ACCURATE TO TELL HOW LATE IT WAS ACTUALLY BUILT. SHOW ORDER/BUILD 20000 (something) don't know if that's late enough.

I THINK, I'LL DO THE DRAIN THING FIRST, WITH A FILTER. ACCORDING TO MY MANUAL THEREIS ONE RIGHT BELOW THE FILLER TUBE, DON'T KNOW IF I'LL HAVE TO TAKE THE SKIRT OFF & THE WHEEL TO GET AT IT.


RUSTY DO YOU REMEMBER WHAT KIND OF FILTER???

IF THAT DOESN'T WORK, THEN REMOVAL AND GO FROM THERE.

[Guest]

I agree on draining the tank ...

I would also pull the fuel pickup/sender unit and check the screen on the end of the fuel pickup. I generally remove them and switch to an inline filter. this will also give you an opportunity to inspect the inside of the tank. If it's in fairly decent shape flush it out or take it to a radiator shop to have it cleaned. If it's badly corroded replace it. Guess I should have read Dave's post before I replied. He had it covered. Mike

[simplyconnected]

Thanks for the kudos, Rich & Mike... I went through this and it was a real headache. Like Jack, I just bought this '55. The car would idle, and it went 40, then it died. After waiting three minutes, it started! Ok, things don't heal themselves, filters don't become unclogged, electrical problems don't correct themselves, either. Then it dawned on me... I don't smell any gas...

Ok, tank problems. I pulled the float out the top bung hole, looked inside with a flashlight... varnish everywhere, and NOT pretty. Options include doing a boogie-woogie around the yard rattling chains, rocks, radiator shop etch, Creme coating,... bottom line is, all the tin plating on the inside was GONE! Time for a new tank, instead of throwing good money into a 50 yr-old tank.

Jack, all I have to say is, RIVERVIEW (by Western and Belmont)! My first girlfriend lived at Lake St. and Harlem (met her at the A&P). Used to take her to Petersen's Ice Cream Parlour. I lived in Melrose Park, a very long time ago.

That drain plug should be in the front left corner of the tank. Scoot under far enough, and you got it; no need to take wheels or skirts off. On second thought, if you siphon into a five gallon bucket, you'll see what's inside. Then, use the drain plug, and drop the tank. - Dave

[YellowRose]

New Tbird - Off To A Bad Start-help

Bill is right about the C6 vs COM. If your Date Plate has a 4 in the Tranny code you have a C6. If it is an 8, it is a COM. Look at your Data Plate... They stopped putting COM's in all '66's according to this in mid November I think it said.

Here is a link that explains it. Also, this link will tell you a lot about your Tbird. Look at the various other things you can check out. Exterior paint, interior, standard equipment, optional equipment, etc..

http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird1966specifications.html

[JohnG]

Use 2 fuel filters. One before the fuel pump and one after the fuel pump. One protects the pump, one protects the carb. You don't want the rust and crap getting into the pump and screwing up the function of the check valves, which is entirely possible. You then end up needlessly buying a fuel pump. (some fuel pump vendors will only warranty their pump if you have put a filter before it)

John