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  #41  
Old 11-30-2016, 12:20 PM
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does anyone have the " studiosonic " system in their car?

the local guy i met recently has an ad up that says he has the full system for 50$ wondering if its worth buying and installing, even if its just as a conversation piece

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-pa...ationFlag=true

"1) AM radios (2 wire) - $50 to $110 - Picture #1
2) AM Radios (4 wire - with rear or door speakers) - looks same as Picture #1 - $100 to $120
3) AM-FM Radio - needs repair (don't know what) $80
4) AM-8 Track - AM OK, not 8 track $80
5) Tuners that make an AM radio into an AM-FM (NO not an AM-FM stereo) - hooks in to antenna lead to feed either AM or FM to your existing car radio. $45 ea.
6) Also have complete factory installed "Studiosonic" unit (wiring front to back, control unit from console, and reverberator unit from trunk of a '66 Thunderbird - $50
All have been cleaned/rebuilt/tested by radio technician who did all Ford radio warrantee work for local dealer in 1960's"
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  #42  
Old 11-30-2016, 12:25 PM
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Wire "30" and wire "297" are joined together. Wire "297" goes to the ignition switch. That's where wire "30" gets it's power.

John
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  #43  
Old 11-30-2016, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
Wire "30" and wire "297" are joined together. Wire "297" goes to the ignition switch. That's where wire "30" gets it's power.

John
usually it has a big black dot on the diag when that happens, but if thats the case, then i need to re check for 6v at the temp sending unit and the fuel sending unit.

since its tied to the key, should just turning it forward give power to all the gauges?

since the cvr was replaced once before i wonder if they connected the wires backwards, will the gauges still work hooked up opposite ? i hooked them up the same way i removed them when i re assembled the dash, i really don't want to have to pull it apart again
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  #44  
Old 11-30-2016, 01:14 PM
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The CVR has a male and female connector so it's impossible to hook it up wrong. Wire 297 goes to the Accessory terminal of the switch so it will put out power on ACC or ON position.

John
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  #45  
Old 11-30-2016, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
The CVR has a male and female connector so it's impossible to hook it up wrong. Wire 297 goes to the Accessory terminal of the switch so it will put out power on ACC or ON position.

John
Sorry I meant the gauges being backwards not the cvr
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  #46  
Old 11-30-2016, 02:24 PM
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It don't think it matters which way the gauges are hooked up. I would make sure you have power to the CVR first.

John
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  #47  
Old 11-30-2016, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
It don't think it matters which way the gauges are hooked up. I would make sure you have power to the CVR first.

John
havent checked yet ( might be 2moro now ) but the oil temp gauge works so that means the cvr has power right?
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  #48  
Old 11-30-2016, 02:58 PM
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Yes, if your oil gauge is working then your CVR is putting out voltage. If you put a test light on the wires at the temp and fuel sender it should pulse showing that voltage is going through the gauges. At least it does with the mechanical CVR.

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  #49  
Old 11-30-2016, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
The CVR has a male and female connector so it's impossible to hook it up wrong...
John is right and I've been here before. When I build my CVRs I install a fat diode on the power leg just in case someone connects the BATTERY backwards. Don't laugh, I know one guy with a '55 whose battery was backward for years. He only realized when he installed a new battery.

Mechanical CVRs pulse (hence the reason '66 'bird has a choke on the CVR). Mine output a solid and steady (regulated) six volts. This prevents the possibility of burning a gauge out because the mechanical contacts stuck shut, sending constant 12-volts to six volt gauges.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cwcb08 View Post
havent checked yet ( might be 2moro now ) but the oil temp gauge works so that means the cvr has power right?
All gauges powered by the CVR are connected in parallel so they operate independently.

Get that volt meter going, Cody. It will tell you what's really happening. Gauges are not polarity sensitive meaning, you can connect the power wire to either post. They don't have a 'motor' inside but they do have a bi-metal strip with ni-chrome wire wrapped around it to create variable heat from variable current produced by the sending unit. The needle is connected to the bi-metal strip. - Dave
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  #50  
Old 12-01-2016, 10:45 AM
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No reading on my digital multimeter from the temp sender lead grounded to the battery or from the fuel sender lead to the good ground in the trunk. Only place I got a reading was the low fuel light lead. Didn't have the car running but key was foreword. All fuses are good in the panel.

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