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  #31  
Old 11-27-2016, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
This leaky rear brake kinda proves that the rear wheels don't do much stopping. This side is soaked in brake fluid. That means the other side would have pulled more and this side's shoes are well lubricated. Cody probably wouldn't notice it even farther down the road unless he was looking for a reason why the brake fluid level was going down.

Don't feel bad Cody, I had a Pontiac Tempest with a rear cylinder that had a hydraulic port that was never drilled. I only noticed because the shoe never wore down.

Your shoe looks like it's nearly new. Just because it's soaked doesn't mean you need to throw it out. Brake linings are made to take tremendous heat under normal stopping operation.

When you have the shoes off, put them in a vice (just to hold them) and go over the linings with a propane torch. As they heat, you will see the brake fluid oozing out. Wipe it off with a paper towel and keep going until it stops oozing. Your lining will turn gray in color and it will look dry, because it will be. Don't worry about fire because brake fluid is glycol-based, not petroleum. In fact, I keep ALL petroleum products far away from my brake system including brake cleaner. Brake cleaner is highly flammable and it swells rubber brake parts.

I normally use the rebuild kits for my cylinders. They are inexpensive and I have control over the bore condition. Older cylinders usually get a rubber ring embedded in the walls from the cups inside because that's the only part that touches the casting. I use old brake cleaner and (wet-or-dry) sand paper to smooth the castings inside. A brake hone is not necessary. NEVER use petroleum products or water near DOT-3.

If you have an abundance of money or no time, you can always buy everything new but the result is about the same. - Dave

when we came in from the garage my plan was just going to to just rebuild them. But for the price of a new fully assembled one on rockauto its not much cheaper buying kits and then the time doing them myself! ( not to mention the boss doesnt like the idea of me playing with the brakes, she didn't seem to mind me overhauling the brake systems on my racing motorcycles, maybe its just because I'm the only one on it when I'm doing 150mph at the track lol. last time i let a professional change my brake lines at the track the first lap i almost got killed. he over filled the reservoir and with the brake drag it heated the fluid and locked my front wheel up at the end of the straightaway, scary hearing all the bikes coming behind you and knowing they are doing 150mph, but they dont realize your stopped and cant move to get to safety, should have seen the guys leg who hit the exhaust on my bike when he went by few more inches to the left we both would have been in the hospital.)


Brake/Wheel Hub : Wheel Cylinder

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Rear Left
Part is designed for US Market vehicles

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RAYBESTOS WC370193 {#2017510, WC17510} Professional Grade Info
Rear Right
Part is designed for US Market vehicles

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RAYBESTOS WK13 {#3513} Professional Grade Info
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Part is designed for US Market vehicles

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Total CAD$17.28
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Last edited by Cwcb08 : 11-27-2016 at 09:14 AM.
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  #32  
Old 11-27-2016, 10:20 AM
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So I measured for the ac belt, I get 56" - 58"1/2 depending where the tensioner is, back to searching for a belt that will fit
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  #33  
Old 11-27-2016, 11:14 AM
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The Ford parts book shows 60" without the smog pump. Rock Auto shows a number of belts around the same length so that sounds correct as long as you have the stock compressor and idler pulley.

John
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  #34  
Old 11-27-2016, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
The Ford parts book shows 60" without the smog pump. Rock Auto shows a number of belts around the same length so that sounds correct as long as you have the stock compressor and idler pulley.

John
great thanks for the confirmation John

I dont think i have the smog pump,

i have 4 pulleys total
one at the motor
one at the compressor
one idler
one tensioner

ordered one of these: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....1332997&jsn=42
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Last edited by Cwcb08 : 11-27-2016 at 01:23 PM.
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  #35  
Old 11-29-2016, 02:03 PM
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i received my new cvr from dave today, and installed it as soon as my daughter went for her nap, still no fuel or temp guage readings ( even after grounding the temp sender lead to the battery, must be wiring )




Dash all buttoned back up

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  #36  
Old 11-29-2016, 09:21 PM
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Cody, you probably have a blown fuse or the key isn't on. Check for 12-volts on the 'IGN' side of the CVR.

When you find voltage, then check the output side.

I test every CVR that I build and yes, I do have pictures of yours. I mount two Fluke meters, one reads the input voltage and the other reads output voltage. I do this with a battery charger running to get 'charging voltage' then I shut the charger off to read 'at rest' voltage. Your CVR outputs a steady, regulated six volts under all conditions, even with a load. (Now I gotta find your pictures because you will readily recognize the white top on your CVR.) - Dave
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Old 11-29-2016, 11:27 PM
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Ill check my fuses in the morning. If one was blown would the oil pressure still work?
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  #38  
Old 11-30-2016, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post

I test every CVR that I build and yes, I do have pictures of yours. I mount two Fluke meters, one reads the input voltage and the other reads output voltage. I do this with a battery charger running to get 'charging voltage' then I shut the charger off to read 'at rest' voltage. Your CVR outputs a steady, regulated six volts under all conditions, even with a load. (Now I gotta find your pictures because you will readily recognize the white top on your CVR.) - Dave
Dave i have no doubt that you test your work, you seem methodical like that, curious if you tested it BEFORE you took it apart to build my new one? ( I'm just curious of what condition it was in before )
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  #39  
Old 11-30-2016, 02:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cwcb08 View Post
...curious if you tested it BEFORE you took it apart...
Why would I do that? No, it's a mechanical contact that will never be used again so I gutted it immediately. Besides, it was an aftermarket CVR.

The wiring diagram shows a 'fuse assembly' in your engine bay, not far from the starter relay. The wire number is 37 and the color is Black-Yellow. This wire should feed your fuse box, so there may be more than one fuse in the circuit. I don't know if a 'fuse assembly' is really a fusible link so get your meter going. - Dave
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  #40  
Old 11-30-2016, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Why would I do that? No, it's a mechanical contact that will never be used again so I gutted it immediately. Besides, it was an aftermarket CVR.
fun ? lol. i had no idea it was aftermarket i guess someone already had issues with it, when i pulled the gauges it was just floating around back there before i removed it
The wiring diagram shows a 'fuse assembly' in your engine bay, not far from the starter relay. The wire number is 37 and the color is Black-Yellow. This wire should feed your fuse box, so there may be more than one fuse in the circuit. I don't know if a 'fuse assembly' is really a fusible link so get your meter going. - Dave
i have the diagrams out in front of me, if i follow #30 from the CVR up to the main disconnect at the top middle of the page i dont see #30 coming out the other side of the disconnect, what # wire do you think "30" is on the left side of the disconnect.

on the right:
30 - cvr
37 - light switch
655 - ammeter
297 - ignition
654 - ammeter

on the left:
37 - fuse assy
655 - ammeter
297 - ignition
654 - ammeter


I'm leaning towards #37 but all the lights work so that should mean the fusable link it good, right? ill head out to the garage in a bit and poke around a little
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